54/1173

[jbcollier]

Play in the choke shaft is not critical.

[Gary t]

I know but things never get better by themselves.

[jbcollier]

It's a "strangler" choke, not a precise tool by any description.  The choke shaft just runs in the housing so you could bush it.  Myself?  Why bother.  A few pumps in the morning and you don't really need the choke.  Racers remove the choke flap and mech entirely though a little fast idle while it warms up is handy.  If you plan on driving it in winter, then that's another matter entirely.

[Gary t]

Dakazman The control connections that are on my car are very simple, the throttle cable goes to a quadrant on a pivot on the rocker cover with a push rod to the throttle lever on the carb. (picture 1) the choke cable outside goes to a boss cast into the carb (picture 2) and the cable goes to the choke lever.   hope this helps. As you know my car is a non federal 1969 s2.

[Gary t]

Still on the carb. The little venturis are a little bit loose, how loose can they be? What could I do to tighten the fit.
Other than that it all looks good, didn't take the butterflies out as all the screws are staked, and except for the sligh loosenes in the choke shaft there didn't seem to be a good reason to force them.

[jbcollier]

There needs to be a bit of play for the venturis ro slide in place.  If you feel it's excessive, you can use a centre punch and put multiple "divots" in the opposite side to the venturi inlet.  This will tighten it back up.

[Gary t]

A question that I forgot yesterday.
There is a brass pin/rod across the bore of the primary between the throttle butterfly and the venturi (I have attached a couple of poor pictures) it is loose it won't come out but moves back and forth a couple of mm. My thought is to push in as far as it will go (about flush on the outside) and stake it in place I could put a little loctite on it first to make a air seal. But what is it for and should it be loose?

[jbcollier]

No, it should not be loose.  There are all sorts of passages for the idle, accelerator pump circuits, etc.  These are drilled and then plugged at the one end as required.  Lightly knock it further in and peen around it with a centre punch to hold it in place.

[Gary t]

Thanks John that is what I had thought. I had not considered that is was a plugged drill access. It might also explain the reported poor running by the po. I'll push it out as far as I can put some red loctite on it  tap it back into the hole and stake it.

[Gary t]

Carb waiting for parts, so my goldfish attention span has led me to something new.
Crash pad.
I have the original and it is not in super horrible shape but -
 it does not seem to fit the car at the ends and the A pillars. What have others done about this or is 54/1173 unique in this.

[Gary t]

Could someone that has the crash pad installed please post some pictures of how it fits the corners against the windscreen mine seems to be a round peg in a square hole and since the windscreen is out I am struggling to see how it should look.
Received my carb kit seemed good, the only think I would have liked was new split pins for the choke linkages.

[jbcollier]

I like to use tiny hair spring pins instead.

https://www.pivotpins.com/products/images/landing-hair-pin-cotter-lg.jpg

[Gary t]

Well it has been a long cold winter and a slow spring but I think the temperature in the unheated garage is nearly +15°C so back to questions.
What have people done with crash pads? Mine is cracked  and maybe not perfectly shaped,  it does not seem to fit at the front out board  corners under the windscreen (of course I don't know what it should look like). There is also a  space between the pad and the A pillar.

[1970EuropaGuy]

Well it has been a long cold winter and a slow spring but I think the temperature in the unheated garage is nearly +15°C so back to questions.
What have people done with crash pads? Mine is cracked  and maybe not perfectly shaped,  it does not seem to fit at the front out board  corners under the windscreen (of course I don't know what it should look like). There is also a  space between the pad and the A pillar.

I cracked mine when I pulled it out. My plan is to put a layer of fibreglass cloth on top of it extending the crash pad a little further towards the windshield and pillars and then slowly cutting it back until I have a really good fit. Epoxy or polyester mixed with micro-balloons can be used for filler to level areas out similar to doing bodywork. At this point I'll be covering mine with leather as I'm using leather for the entire interior.

I haven't figured out how to deal with my warped vents yet but might make a mold and do them in fibreglass.

[BDA]

I think all the usual suspects (Dave Bean, r.d. enterprises, Europa Engineering, etc. sell fiberglass replacements that can be covered in anything you like.