1265R is now in my garage

[gideon]

Does anybody have any tips on how to get the speedo angle drive out of a 336 box.  I have backed the retaining screw right out (red arrow in photo) and put a couple of cable ties around it, so I've got something to grab hold of and pull.  The cable ties are supposed to be good for 75lbs, and I've broken one by pulling on it, so now I have two.  I'm using a pull and wiggle method, but no luck.   I'm planning to drop the engine+trans, and lift the frame off, which would be easier if I can get this thing off.

[jbcollier]

Completely remove the retaining bolt. Twist side to side with penetrating oil applied (o-ring probably stuck).

[gideon]

Well, twisting with penetrating oil worked, but only after I separated the transmission from the frame. While still attached, the mounting bracket only allowed a few degrees of twist.  Once I got the bracket off I could twist it through a much larger angle, and that allowed me to get it out.

[gideon]

I'm trying to separate the gearbox and engine.  I've managed to open up a gap between them, but I don't seem to be able to make the gap any bigger.  The gearbox will wiggle up and down and left to right - the two dowel pins seem to be both moving freely, at least over some small amount of movement.  What could be stopping them from coming further apart - could the clutch plate be stuck to the flywheel?  Do you have any suggestions for a safe way to prise them apart?

[gideon]

I just went and shone a light in the holes in the bellhousing and watched as I wiggled the gearbox.  The bits of the clutch that I could see did not move at all with gearbox and did look like they were firmly stuck to the flywheel. 

[GavinT]

G'day Gideon,

Is that a bolt still attached at the lower middle of the pic?
If all the bolts are out, the only contact between the box and the engine is the clutch splines and the flywheel pilot bearing.

I'd try some wooden wedges banged in evenly around the bell housing.

Cheers,
Gavin

[EuropaTC]

A couple of years ago I replaced the clutch on my car and had trouble separating the engine/gearbox. With all bolts removed it moved a fraction and then would only move sideways a degree or two. I ended up as Gavin has suggested and using levers to get it apart, not something I liked doing on the bellhousing but it was the only way.

Even after it was apart I still couldn't see any reason for it sticking.  I could only guess at the gearbox input shaft on the clutch splines once it was past it's normal range of movement.

Brian

[dakazman]

Other than the bolt that Gavin mentioned, what is that wire rod to the clutch attached to? Does the arm move?
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

All bolts out -- if it freely wiggles, probably yes.

Flywheel cover plate off -- looks like it might still be on.

No clutch bits (except the release arm and bearing) will be loose until the clutch plate is unbolted.

It's ok to pry but it is unusual.  Double and triple check everything is undone and removed before going that way.

Had a chap call in because he couldn't get the cylinder head off his 1.3L Honda Civic.  Asked him if he had all the bolts out: yes.  Asked if he got the bolt hidden under the distributor drive: yes.  Then it just pries off.  He got it off.  He had missed the hidden bolt and he pried so hards he snapped the head off the bolt!

[gideon]

Thanks guys for all the replies.  The answer was very simple.  I'm an idiot and didn't realize you have to remove the flywheel cover first.  Once I removed the cover it came apart easily.  I did find a good quantity of mouse bedding inside the bell housing, of course.

Dakazman, the wire rod attached to the clutch lever goes to an additional spring adding some extra pull to the return spring.  Is it not standard equipment?

[jbcollier]

Glad you got it sorted.  Don't be hard on yourself, we've all been there.

No, that spring is definitely NOT standard.

[gideon]

I bought an engine stand from Harbor Freight, and made my best guess about the mounting arrangement, but had to remove the camshaft bearing housing to fit the mounting plate to the bell housing bolt hole next to it.  The engine is an 821-30. I'm just wondering if there's a better way to do this.  What do you think?

Also, I need to start looking for an engine machine shop to help with rebuilding this.  What should I look for in choosing a machine shop?  Can anybody recommend a shop in northern NJ?

[gideon]

I made a wet blasting cabinet, and used it for the first time on aluminum today with the really fine glass beads.  It came out well, though it shows up the flaws in the casting now.

[dakazman]

   It looks good Gideon, the glass bead did a good job. Do you intend to keep it bare metal?

  I have the same engine and stand . Get the crankshaft centerline in line with the rotating shaft centerline. It makes it a lot easier for turn over.  See pics
I haven’t tried the way it is shown in the manual .
 Dakazman

[gideon]

I'll give the shiny aluminum bits a protective coating of something, either ACF50 or wax or something similar.

I fixed my earlier issue with the engine stand with the help of an angle grinder.  I cut a corner off the arm that was interfering with the camshaft bearing.  The engine stand pivot is nearly inline with the crankshaft.