Radiator Hoses

[Sherman Kaplan]

Hi:

How do I remove the radiator hoses where they go through the body in the front compartment on a TCS ? 

Any recommendation for new hoses?  I noticed Banks offers silicone hoses but I think RDent only has rubber.  I'm looking for long term reliability and don't know if silicone is better than rubber?  I have read that silicone is harder to tighten to get a good seal, but I don't know if that is really true.

Thanks,
Sherman

[andy harwood]

On my TCS, I had to remove the closing plate, under the nose, then was able to access the hoses, and clamps, between the body & front of frame.  I've no experience with the silicone hoses, but think a different clamp is used - which will not pinch the hose.
hth

[4129R]

I have had to cut some of the fibreglass away in the front spare wheel compartment to access the hoses properly.

I will make up an ally plate to close the hole to make it look better.

Even with the closing plate off the bottom, access to the top hose is difficult, so cutting away a little of the bodywork seemed to me to be the easier option.

[buzzer]

In my experience silicone hoses do require more clamp pressure to seal. Also make sure there is no release agent on them as that can make it very difficult to get a seal especially if you have sailers steel pipes.
I used high quality stainless steel mikalor clamps

[EuropaTC]

(part quote)
Any recommendation for new hoses?  I noticed Banks offers silicone hoses but I think RDent only has rubber.  I'm looking for long term reliability and don't know if silicone is better than rubber?  I have read that silicone is harder to tighten to get a good seal, but I don't know if that is really true.

I think it depends what you mean by long term. Silicone will take higher temperatures than conventional rubber and hence you'd expect them to last for longer before showing signs of deterioration, plus of course you can get them in colours other than black. 

On the other hand I can't remember when I replaced the main (rubber) hoses on my car, it's so long ago and they're still flexible last year when I had one off to drain the coolant.  It's probably down to the fact the car runs at a lowish temperature and it's not been used as a daily commuter for years, so the operating hours are much lower than the passage of years.  I've replaced heater hoses behind the dash but I'm pretty sure they were the originals from 1972. 

So even normal rubber is going to last for a long while and personally I don't think the potentially different service lifetimes come into the choice for a standard engine.  I think it's just down to what you like the look of, if you like blue/red/etc hoses then get silicone. If you aren't bothered, stick to conventional rubber.

As for access, I'm another who takes off the closing plate and gets to them from underneath the car.

Brian

[Sherman Kaplan]

Thanks, I started today to remove the closing plate.  My car was last driven in 1980 and then put in storage.  Some of it looks new (such as the door hinge pins) and others like the closing plate are a mess.  I've soaked the nuts/bolts with Kroil (penetrating oil) and will get after them once I can get my wife to help hold a wrench    
The hoses are all original so I think I will just stick with rubber.

Thanks,
Sherman

[andy harwood]

Well, enjoy. Seems a bit satisfying working on these cars. Along with frustrating at times.

[EuropaTC]

Thanks, I started today to remove the closing plate.  My car was last driven in 1980 and then put in storage.  Some of it looks new (such as the door hinge pins) and others like the closing plate are a mess.  I've soaked the nuts/bolts with Kroil (penetrating oil) and will get after them once I can get my wife to help hold a wrench    

Sherman,
Rather than press the wife into service there are ways you can do the job single handed and you might want to save those brownie points for later tasks.....   

I take out the spare wheel and the front grille. With that out of the way you can reach inside the radiator chamber through the air inlet and get spanners on both nut and bolt holding the closing plate.  I have a garage pit which does make the job easier but it's equally do-able from axle stands.

After removing the grille I made up two small stainless U brackets for the base which act like a hinge and replaced the top brackets with cable ties. You can't see them unless you get down to look and it makes it very easy to clip them and let the grille drop flat for the next time you need access.

Brian

[Sherman Kaplan]

Thanks, that is a great idea.

Sherman