Author Topic: Gear Change  (Read 4146 times)

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Offline johnmi

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Gear Change
« on: Wednesday,August 23, 2017, 08:13:04 AM »
Does any one have any tips / info on setting up the linkage to the gearbox, i have set it to the dimension in the manual but can only get first and third gears because the gear stick will not travel any further back for second, fourth or reverse. Also the rear tube that connects the linkage to the gearbox shaft has a weld around it about 250 mm from the end is this normal or has someone shortened it? What is the correct length? When in neutral does the gear stick need to be vertical? It was all dismantled when i got the car so i have no reference to what it was like before. I need to get this sorted before i put the body shell goes back on.
Any tips on what to do or not do before the body goes on would be helpful as well. I can post some photos if that helps.

Thanks for any replies

John

Offline 4129R

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Re: Gear Change
« Reply #1 on: Wednesday,August 23, 2017, 09:55:44 AM »
I am in Norfolk with a spare linkage.

Too big to post !!!

Offline EuropaTC

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Re: Gear Change
« Reply #2 on: Wednesday,August 23, 2017, 09:37:56 PM »
I think it would help if you could post some photos of what you've got. I'm not clear if it's the S2 or later TC version you're trying to sort out. If it's the TC then there's no welds other than those holding the front & rear UJ's in place, so someone has been either repairing or "improving" the linkage  ;)

Brian

Offline johnmi

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Re: Gear Change
« Reply #3 on: Thursday,August 24, 2017, 12:28:15 AM »
Sorry should have said its on a 1971 S2, the linkage is not damage and i have cleaned and greased all the joints, set it to the dimensions in the service manual but can only get 1st and 3rd, it is not throwing the linkage far enough to the rear to get 2nd, 4th and reverse. Its what i adjust that i need to know.

Offline BDA

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Re: Gear Change
« Reply #4 on: Thursday,August 24, 2017, 06:38:22 AM »
I believe the "relay lever"/"bell crank" or whatever it's called that links the front linkage to the rear has a long and a short side. You may have it installed backwards.

Offline johnmi

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Re: Gear Change
« Reply #5 on: Thursday,August 24, 2017, 01:40:25 PM »
Looking from the rear the short side is on the right, I doubt it will fit the other way round, it would hit the chassis. When I set the linkage to the dimensions in the manual it is about 10 to 15 mm shorter so I think the previous owner must have had trouble getting the gears.

Offline BDA

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Re: Gear Change
« Reply #6 on: Thursday,August 24, 2017, 01:59:58 PM »
Without knowing specifically, that sounds correct. With front linkage connected to the short side the fore-aft movement will be magnified in the rear linkage (just making sure I understand where you are). It sounds like that weld could indicate that the rear linkage has been shortened. If that's true, then I wouldn't expect the shift lever to be vertical when in neutral as it should be.

Offline Grumblebuns

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Re: Gear Change
« Reply #7 on: Thursday,August 24, 2017, 02:29:32 PM »
It can suck having to re-assemble a basket of parts. I've attached a few pictures of how my S2 gear linkage is set up. Compare it to yours. The gear lever is completely vertical when in neutral. If you need any more pictures or linkage dimensions, let me know.

Offline johnmi

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Re: Gear Change
« Reply #8 on: Thursday,August 24, 2017, 11:23:08 PM »
Thanks for the photos that explains where things should be, one thing that is different to mine is the link from the top of the gearbox, yours is pointing slightly forward while mine is to rear. Do you have a measure on the length of your rear shaft, that weld I have is worrying. I am away this weekend but I will post some photos next week.

Offline Grumblebuns

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Re: Gear Change
« Reply #9 on: Friday,August 25, 2017, 09:17:34 AM »
I have the early linkage per the S2 parts list on:

http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/s2parts/f/s2fg.pdf

My long shaft (longitudinal link #9) is approx. 39.75" or 100.965 cm, as close as I can measure it. That weld on the link may indicate a modification to the length of the shaft. If it got shortened this may prevent the gearbox actuator from moving back and forth with sufficient arc to get into 2nd and 4th. Suggestion is to disconnect the linkage at the back and by hand see how much extra travel is required to move the actuator at the gearbox to get into 2nd and 4th.

I took a few more pictures of the linkage in various gear positions this morning. The first picture shows the gearbox in first gear and the second with the box in 2nd. In both, the selector shaft at the box is pulled out slightly. In 1st gear, the plate on the actuator is pointing about 10 degrees forward and in 2nd gear pointing about 5 degrees rearwards. In 3rd and 4th, pretty much the same thing except that the actuator shaft is pushed into the gearbox. The last picture shows the actuator connection to longitudinal shaft. 

Offline johnmi

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Re: Gear Change
« Reply #10 on: Tuesday,August 29, 2017, 12:41:18 PM »
Right back from hols, measured my rear shaft and I have 1001 mm / 39.4 inches, so I am about 10 mm less than you which explains my problem. Someone had also taken a hammer to the bracket that goes onto the gearbox shaft, tried to straighten it but it's passed saving so I have made a new one. I will post the photos tomorrow showing the position of the gear stick and where the end of the shaft is.
Has anyone adjusted the linkage? Does a small amount of adjustment at the linkage make a large difference at the gearbox end?

Thank for all the help

Offline johnmi

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Re: Gear Change
« Reply #11 on: Wednesday,August 30, 2017, 05:54:49 AM »
Photo one shows how short i am of the gearbox link (10 - 15 mm), this is with the car in neutral and the gear stick vertical in both directions. Photo two shows the welded part and the stabilizer link (should this be at 90 degrees from the gearbox when in neutral)

Offline Grumblebuns

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Re: Gear Change
« Reply #12 on: Wednesday,August 30, 2017, 10:07:55 AM »
For some reason, sometime in the past, your rear longitudinal link appears to have been shortened by the PO. I can't
think of any other solution except to cut and extend the link. Richard Hill on the Yahoo list posted a pretty good writeup on checking the arrangement of the shift linkage. It's post 149435 "Re: [LOTUSEUROPA] Re: Shifting issue? 3rd gear". He's also a UK member on the Yahoo list, may be a good resource to contact for assistance. I've cut and pasted his posting.

From the Yahoo list:

Dennis,

Your description of ‘arcing back in’ sounds very like my experience with an NG3 which has 4 selection positions across the gate, ie reverse on its own over to the left, then 1-2, 3-4 and 5th on its own over to the right.  This was very tricky to get enough articulation in the system to cover the 4 positions. Why should yours change during a 15 mile drive?  I can only think something has come loose sufficiently to mess up the adjustment.  Here’s my experience trying to maximise movement, it may help.

It turned out that a limiting factor was the spherical joints in the centre pivoting arm that transfers motion in front of the engine to across the car and hence back to the rear.  Like a lot of things in life, spherical joints are not all made equal, some designs offer greater freedom of movement than others and the variety that were already installed had slightly smaller angular capability.  I changed them for Rose [Heim] type joints but that didn’t cure the problem because the nuts that secured the ball part of the joint were themselves interfering with the ball socket at the extremes of movement.  I made tubular spacers to move the nuts away from the ball such that full movement was restored.  Note that the manual does specify the use of spacers with Rose joints!

Follow the workshop manual and adjust the centre linkage such that all the rods/links are parallel as shown in the diagram.

Make sure the centre linkage sits at 90deg to the car fore-aft axis with the box in neutral, this is achieved by adjusting the spherical joint at the rear where it meets the transmission selector shaft.  Make sure this spherical joint is fitted with spacers to ensure full movement is possible.

Make sure the gearstick in the cabin sits vertically as viewed along the axis of the car when in the 3-4 selection plane.  If it doesn’t, adjust the joints where the linkage attaches to the transmission, there are various types, not sure which you have..

I also had issues with the upper ball joint on the tube that goes to the rear of the car striking the chassis when trying to select 5th, but that should not be an issue with the 4-speed because selecting reverse moves the joint towards the rear of the car and away from the chassis rather than towards it as in the case of 5th gear.

I imagine you’re heartily sick of crawling underneath the car, in my case most of these issues were sorted by seemingly interminable trial installations of the engine/box, but I have a power hoist so it wasn’t so bad..

Good luck..

Richard


   

Offline Bodzer

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Re: Gear Change
« Reply #13 on: Thursday,August 31, 2017, 12:52:09 AM »
Good morning John and Joji,

I'm in the process of refurbishing my 336 gear linkage and am really appreciating your photos. My Europa was missing the right angled actuator bracket. Would it be possible to post or PM the dimensions so that I can fabricate my own? Or if anyone has a spare lying about...?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Regards,

Pete

Offline Grumblebuns

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Re: Gear Change
« Reply #14 on: Thursday,August 31, 2017, 06:09:18 AM »
Pete, what part number do you need the dimensions of? Lotus Europa Central has a downloadable parts manual:

http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/s2parts/f/fg.htm

I'll try to measure the shift linkage part this weekend for you.