Restoration of 74 TCS - 044615R

[racurley]

I received the water seal this afternoon.  It seems to be slightly deeper than the one that came with the rebuild kit but otherwise looks right.  Measuring the space where it will go, it looks like it will just fit.  Will get it pressed in with the sealant and see how that goes.

Old one


New one


Old


New


Together


9mm to the lip

[racurley]

Got the new one installed yesterday.  It fit just fine.

[jbcollier]

Excellent!

[racurley]

It's kind of pathetic the little work I've done on my rebuild.  I have found renewed interest, energy and time so I am jumping back in and am going to finish it this time.  (my wife is threatening to "help" again ).  My problem when I've gone to work on it is, despite taking good care during disassembly, I keep finding I'm missing a part - typically the third thing I go to install.  Then I get frustrated.  I'm trying to lay all of the parts out now it will take to complete the engine rebuild so I can make one order and then finish it. 

Need an adapter for the end of the jackshaft so I can attach the jackshaft sprocket and then the water pump assembly.  Can't locate the bolts for the rear oil seal retainer either.  I think I'm generally good otherwise. 

I did have a question about fasteners in general - if I need a bolt here or there, I'm guessing I don't just run over to the local big box hardware store.  Seems like they are the wrong material.  Do I just order bolts from a parts catalog or is there some other source?  I'm guessing most of the bolts are steel.

[BDA]

As a general rule, I’d use bolts that are grade 5 or grade 8. They are made to a more rigorous standard than ungraded bolts. For some applications that is overkill but they aren’t that much more expensive than ungraded bolts. Grade 5 bolts have three radial marks on the head. Grade 8 have six. They are available in fine and coarse thread. The cheapest place to get bolts is probably a local bolt or fastener supplier but they may require a minimum purchase, especially in the smaller sizes in which case your local hardware store or big box retailer which has a good selection of nuts and bolts would be a good choice.

I consider nuts and washers a different story. Nyloc or other locknuts wear out and need to be replaced (and nuts and washers sometimes have a habit of getting lost). Buying them by the box makes more sense so you fastener supply house or even online if there isn’t a fastener supplier near you are good options.

[racurley]

Dang I'm lame.  Finally got around to ordering a jackshaft adapter and a new timing chain (why not).  Made more progress over the last 3-4 days than in months.  Got the water pump on, the rear oil seal, and put the oil sump on the block.  Moving on to the fly wheel which raises a few questions...

Spigot bearing - I'm guessing I don't have this.  Any advice on these?  Otherwise, I guess I will be ordering.

Alignment and balancing - So, balance marks when mounting flywheel to crank wheel.  Then, clutch and clutch cover are supposed to have marks to align.  I see some permanent marker lines on the flywheel.  Not sure about the crankshaft end.  I think I can figure out how the cover when on to the flywheel.  Any idea what I'm looking for?  Or, should I look into getting it balanced and how would I go about that? 

Clutch alignment tool - ideas on what to use.  I'm assuming I don't need to order an actual tool.

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IMG_0441

[BDA]

The crank and flywheel should be balanced independently. Since you will have to set the ignition timing from marks on your flywheel, you need to make sure that TDC of #1 agrees with the marks on your flywheel. Be sure that it is at the top of the compression stroke (both valves closed). I suspect the arrow on your flywheel relates to TDC but make sure!

[jbcollier]

At least sand the faces of the flywheel and the pressure plate.  I only ever fit new clutches as I don't want to have to pull the tranny unless I have to.

[racurley]

The crank and flywheel should be balanced independently. Since you will have to set the ignition timing from marks on your flywheel, you need to make sure that TDC of #1 agrees with the marks on your flywheel. Be sure that it is at the top of the compression stroke (both valves closed). I suspect the arrow on your flywheel relates to TDC but make sure!

That makes sense now.  If I assume they were balanced previously, really I just need to get to TDC on cylinder 1 and ensure the ignition timing marks align.  And, the timing marks are viewed from the little rectangular hole in the transmission which at about 1:30 on the clock as you face the flywheel.  Thanks for your help.

[racurley]

At least sand the faces of the flywheel and the pressure plate.  I only ever fit new clutches as I don't want to have to pull the tranny unless I have to.

Thank you.  I'm working over the faces to clean them up.  Despite appearances, I think they are in ok condition.  When you say you fit new clutches, are you just replacing the clutch plate or are your replacing both it and the clutch cover?

[jbcollier]

New pressure plate, disc, release bearing and pilot bearing.  Release fork is carefully examined, repaired as necessary and lubed.

[Richard48Y]

Most modern flywheels will only bolt up in one orientation.
One hole will be slightly differently spaced than the others.
If the TC does not do this I am surprised.

[racurley]

So, apparently the sprockets are the same for the intake cam and jackshaft, and exhaust cam has a different one.  My amazing Lotus Twin Cam Engine book says that the one for the exhaust has an EX on it.  Mine apparently have 1, 2 and 3 stamped on them.  I've already put #2 on the jackshaft and installed the water pump.  Looking at the photos from the disassembly, it appears that 1 and 3 were on the cams so that is good but I didn't note which was which.  I'm guessing 1 is intake and 3 is exhaust based on the location of the numbers and the timing marks.  I'm not keen on removing the water pump but I guess I will if I've done something wrong.

Anyone able to identify which is which?

[BDA]

From what I’ve seen, and inlet and exhaust cam are the same. The jackshaft has gears to drive the dizzy and oil pump and an eccentric to drive the fuel pump so there is no way that you can mistake it for one of your valve cams.

[jbcollier]

Always, always, always mark ALL parts on disassembly.  That said, also always double check just in case the last b*st*rd in there didn’t do it right.

According to the parts manual the jackshaft and intake cam sprockets are the same.  The exhaust is the odd  man out.  The intake cam sprocket has its timing mark pointing at the center of a tooth point.  The exhaust cam sprocket has its timing mark pointing between two teeth.

( don’t thank me, thank the Wilkins)