Restoration of 74 TCS - 044615R

[racurley]

I'm sure I'm not the slowest guy to ever do a rebuild but I'm sure I'm in the running. My youngest son and rebuild partner is moving across the country. My wife is suggesting that she "help" me with the rebuild. So, I am back at it and will try to stay focused this time.

I got the engine from the machine shop a few months ago and have gotten the pistons in and bottom end together. I have the Lotus TC book which is very helpful. Working on water pump now.  I have the rebuild kit from Burton. I can get the old one to turn but haven't been able to dismantle it. Any suggestions on how to do this?

[lotusfanatic]

Hello Andy,

was the threat of 'help' enough to focus you?!

Mark 

[jbcollier]

Follow the directions in the manual carefully!  Some new style seals require a special tool to press in place.

[racurley]

I can neither confirm nor deny.   Her dad had a paint and body shop so she is actually interested.

I have applied heat and my pullers and have it about 1/3 off. Not coming easy.

[jbcollier]

You are going to need a press, preferably hydraulic, to do the job.

[racurley]

So it seems.  I looked through the book carefully and came to the same conclusion.  Think it will bring it back to the machine shop and let them do it and clean it and the other plates I have.  Thanks.

[jbcollier]

There are two types of water pump seals.  The older ones ride against the impeller.  They are easy to install with the right sized deep socket of pipe with a bit of Hylomar or aviation gasket sealer.  The newer style does not ride against the impeller and seals against the shaft itself.  These should be installed with a special tool that pushes against both the outer rim of the seal and inner part next to the shaft.  The seals may be damaged if the tool is not used. FYI.

[Grumblebuns]

My last twink water pump replacement was about five or six years ago using the old style rebuild kit. Has any one used the new style seal as described by JBC? If so what does the special tool look like and how is it used. I'm at the point of my rebuild where I'll have to start thinking of which direction I want to go with my water pump. Is there an advantage of using the new style seal vs the old?

Joji Tokumoto
Fallbrook, Ca

[jbcollier]

Have a look at this pdf:

http://www.az-rpm.com/pdf/Shaft%20Seals.pdf

Compare the 68 and the 68U

Here's some info on the tool required fro unitized seals:

http://www.az-rpm.com/pdf/Seal%20Installation%20Guide.pdf

A unitized seal gives a better controlled operating environment for the seal.  Seal lube is contained and the seal run protected.

[Lotsof 3146 R]

For the water pump - go electric.
1. Water continues to circulate for a few minutes after the engine is off enabling a better cool down.
2. When stationary water still can circulate at full speed
3. When it breaks a replacement can be fitted in ten minutes
4, 5 , 6 and 7 when it breaks a replacement can be fitted in ten minutes.
As far as I can see the only downside is you can’t race as an electric pump is non compliant

[racurley]

So, continuing along the lines of slowest rebuild ever, I was back at the water pump over the last few weeks.  Purchased a shop press (12-ton) which helped to get the old parts out and the new parts in.  Was moving on to mounting the plate to the front of the block and was reading the TwinCam book and realized I missed what I think was a critical step.  This was also in the instructions from the water pump kit but I missed it.  It says to put a good quality silicon sealant (books says RTV silicon sealant) on the new seal but I was looking at the instructions below about using some silicone grease and used that instead.  I'm guessing that without this sealant, I'm destined for a quick failure.  Not looking forward to dismantling this and I'm guessing I will damage the seal when I press it out.

On another side, when we were putting the jackshaft in, we couldn't find the thrust plate so I ordered a used one.  Got it all cleaned up and pulled the block over to install it only to find the original one in place.  I'm guessing my son found the correct one and installed it without telling me.  Kind of funny.

[jbcollier]

Many coolants attacks and breakdown "silicone" sealer.  I would use Hylomar or Permatex Aviation Gasket Maker #3.

It is extremely likely you will damage the seal when you remove it.  See if you can find a seal without ordering a whole new kit -- the supplier I link to above may have it.  Myself, I would definitely replace the seal.  Water pump leaks are not fun on a TC.

[racurley]

Thanks jpcollier.  I contacted as-rpm.  Will was very helpful.  We determined I need a type 68, 1005 which apparently common on Ford seals.  Roughly $20 shipped.  Will let you know how it fits when it comes in.  He agreed it was probably good to get it sealed up with the aluminum cover.  thanks for pointing me that way!

[BDA]

Many coolants attacks and breakdown "silicone" sealer.  I would use Hylomar or Permatex Aviation Gasket Maker #3.

It is extremely likely you will damage the seal when you remove it.  See if you can find a seal without ordering a whole new kit -- the supplier I link to above may have it.  Myself, I would definitely replace the seal.  Water pump leaks are not fun on a TC.

Speaking of silicone sealers, you should be careful when using it in fuel systems. The fuel attacks it and turns it into stringy much. A guy told me that he had trouble starting his race car one time. He checked the engine, ignition, wiring, etc. Finally he  broke open the fuel cell, fuel pump, and fuel lines. He had a long rope of silicone in his fuel line from all the times they used silicone to seal various parts of the fuel system!

[racurley]

Thanks.  I have some of the Permatex Gasket Maker stuff referenced.  Will go with that I think.