Restoration of 74 TCS - 044615R

[Clifton]

Mcmaster   has roll pics

https://www.mcmaster.com/#roll-pins/=1c7p9lk

[Grumblebuns]

I believe the sizes needed are 3mm inner and 7mm outer. I don't see the 7mm listed. They also have the coil type pins. Are these the same as the Spiroll (sic?) that the TCs are suppose to come with?

[LeftAngle]

Great tale Andy and welcome to the forum.  It’s extremely active and everyone here is willing to help you get through your adventure.

[Certified Lotus]

I used the coil type pins on my rebuild. RD has them. Compressed the pin is 5mm and 35mm long. Need to Safety wire after installing them.

[racurley]

... Need to Safety wire after installing them.

I presume this means just running a wire through the pin and twisting it off?

(I've decided it's safest to not assume things now  )

[Certified Lotus]

Yes. Use stainless steel wire designed for this.

[racurley]

More photo documentation of my dismantling on Good Friday

Gear shift linkage
Rear suspension removal by acurley, on Flickr
Rear suspension removal by acurley, on Flickr
Rear suspension removal by acurley, on Flickr
Rear suspension removal by acurley, on Flickr
The pin here was pretty large and came out fairly easily although there was some clearance issues with the frame.

[racurley]

Removed the exhaust headers and had a peek at the valves.  I have one of those USB cameras on a cable.  I will see if I can take some photos of the intake and exhaust sections and get your opinions and what I should be doing with the engine.  I have a feeling I will at a minimum be taking the top end off and cleaning it up.  Two of the exhaust valves seem to have a lot of oil and two have carbon. 

7 of the 8 connections for the exhaust were bolts and one was a stud for some reason.  It, of course, torqued off when I was removing it.  Will drill it out and replace with all new bolts.

I think I'm ready to pull the engine now.  I still need to figure out how to disconnect the speedo cable from the back of the transmission.  I know we went over this before but I am not certain - maybe just a good pull on it.

Rear suspension removal by acurley, on Flickr
Rear suspension removal by acurley, on Flickr
Rear suspension removal by acurley, on Flickr
Rear suspension removal by acurley, on Flickr
Rear suspension removal by acurley, on Flickr
Rear suspension removal by acurley, on Flickr
Rear suspension removal by acurley, on Flickr
Rear suspension removal by acurley, on Flickr

[BDA]

I would convert to all studs for your exhaust headers. Screwing and unscrewing into aluminum increases the likelihood of wear on the threads in the aluminum. The studs will also help align the headers when you install them.

Once you take out the bolt (or is it a pin?) that holds cable "conduit" captive at the tranny, it should just pull out. You may need to clean out the area where it is attached but there isn't, or shouldn't, be anything mechanical that keeps it in there.

[4129R]

Once you take out the bolt (or is it a pin?) that holds cable "conduit" captive at the tranny, it should just pull out.

It should be a metric bolt with a lock nut down the thread to lock in place before you screw the long bolt through the plastic end of the cable.

[racurley]

Ok, once I knew what to look for, that was easy.  Bolt on the rear of the transmission near the speedo cable.  Back it out and the cable slides right out. 

Speedo cable by acurley, on Flickr
Speedo cable by acurley, on Flickr

[BDA]

 

[racurley]

I took this video using my cheapo USB cable camera.  I wanted to share the condition of the top end.  Only got decent video of the intake valves.  The cylinder head and exhaust valve video was not good.

https://www.screencast.com/t/ZcMDbZu9I38x

[BDA]

Interesting video! Your camera gives a pretty decent picture.

I would think a car that was sitting idle outside for as long as yours did, and especially with no preparation, probably deserves to at least have the top end of the engine and carbs rebuilt. I'd also be careful with the brakes. Humidity can do a lot of damage.

[racurley]

So, despite late of forum activity, we've been moving forward on the dismantling.  My son managed to remove the top end and oil pan.  I have removed the cams and the valves.  I gave up trying to do it the hard way and went with the Lisle Valve Remover/Installer.  Very easy.

I removed the valve followers (?) with the suction cup lapping tool. 

Here are a few photo highlights. Need to include photos of the valves later...

Cylinders
Top end removal by acurley
Top end removal by acurley

Crank shaft from underneath
Top end removal by acurley

Oil pump
Top end removal by acurley

Starter
Top end removal by acurley
Top end removal by acurley

Cover
Top end removal by acurley

Bottom of top end
Top end removal by acurley
Top end removal by acurley

Top of top end
Top end removal by acurley

Camshafts removed
Top end removal by acurley
Top end removal by acurley
Top end removal by acurley
Top end removal by acurley

Oil pan
Top end removal by acurley