Restoration of 74 TCS - 044615R

[BDA]

IIRC, the aluminum part of the cable has a groove that is engaged by the bolt 4129R mentioned. It might be screwed in from the bottom. If it's not there, the cable should just pull out.

FYI, the tach is electric.

[racurley]

So, I was trying to drive the roll pin from the inner universal joint to remove the rear axle. It said to use a drift, Part No 46F 6171,which I of course don't have. So, I used a 1/8" pin punch. I'm guessing I should have used either a larger punch or tried from the other side. Now, I've gotten the punch stuck in the little hole in the pin and the pin is not out.

I've never removed a pin before and haven't had a good experience so far.   

So, what is the technique for driving these out? And, any thoughts on extracting the punch without breaking it off? 🤪

[racurley]

Yep.  Stuck.

[Certified Lotus]

You may have inserted the punch into the roll pin. You will need to use the right size drift from underneath and hammer out. That should work.

[4129R]

Turn it 180 degrees, and using the right sized drift, push the whole lot out in the other direction.

[Certified Lotus]

Maybe, looks like the punch will interfere with rotating the shaft.

[surfguitar58]

I've never done this job myself, but I seem to recall this is a pin-within-a-pin connection (smaller roll pin stuck inside a larger roll pin). It looks like you pushed out the smaller inner pin and got stuck inside the outer pin. (?)
Tom

[Roger]

They are one-piece pins.
You won't be able to rotate the shaft, so you'll have to drive it out from underneath with a larger-diameter drift. 5mm I think.

[jbcollier]

Early cars used two pins, later, one spiral-cut pin.

First, get the punch out.  You will have to get underneath and drive it upwards with a slightly smaller diameter of punch.  Myself, I would take a punch of the same diameter and grind/file it top a smaller diameter.  It is not going to be easy as I assume you have driven the stuck punch in hard.

Once you have the punch out, you need to use a pin punch of the correct diameter to prevent the same thing from happening again.

[buzzer]

I believe it’s actually a scroll pin. So it is made up of a roll of steel and solid. A roll pin is like split tube of spring steel.

[Grumblebuns]

I don't know if all TCSs are single pinned. Mine were double pinned when I remove mine (second owner). It looks like your picture is of the right hand side of the 365. If so, the 365 on the right hand side has a slight overhang from the top section of the case forcing you to punch the pin at a slight angle if driving it out from the top. It's much easier to drive the right side pin from the bottom due to the straighter access.

The pins are metric but I used a 3/16" pin punch to get mine out fairly easily. It was a good tight fit in the hole.   

[racurley]

Yes. I've managed to drive it in pretty tightly. I can twist it with the vise grips but no pulling out. I went to HF and got a kit with a selection of punches that have a little tip. No luck moving it from below with the other punch still stuck. Also, I probably need more of a dead blow hammer than my claw hammer. Definitely have an overhang that is causing a slight bend to the punch from above.

The pin seems to have one end with a small hole and the other end has a larger one (where my punch is stuck).  When I'm doing this correctly, what end should I be driving from?

Also, I need to remove a pin from the rear where the shift linkage connects at the rear of the transmission. Anyone know what size drift to use there?

[Grumblebuns]

It's not the worst "Oh shit" moment in the world but close. How much of the smaller pin is protruding from the bottom? Bang it hard enough with a hammer and you risk breaking it off completely if you hit it at the wrong angle. I would first work on getting the punch out by wiggling and pulling at the same time as you are already doing. If it turns with the vice grips, it should eventually come out. DON'T BREAK THE PUNCH OFF.

Removing the pin for the rear shift linkage shaft requires having the gearbox in the gear that pushes the shift shaft out as far as possible and the hole at 90 deg. straight up and down. Thinking about it visually, either first or third gear (my linkage is disconnected). This will align the pin and hole so that it's exposed and visible from the top (see pictures). The hole is between 7/64" and 9/32". Find a roll pin between the two sizes, if one exists or use the metric equivalent. I think I punched it out from the top due to having more room to swing a hammer from the top. Speaking of hammers, it takes a firm rap to punch the pin out and a small claw hammer may not the mass to do the job.   

[jbcollier]

If you cam turn it with vise grips, good.  Have your "beautiful assistant" turn the punch while you knock it out from below.

[cwtech]

Care must be used when removing the shift linkage pin at the rear of the trans.

If the pin is "frozen" in place, pounding on the pin without supporting the joint, may result in bending the shaft.