TCS rear brakes onto a TC?

[Pete Gossett]

I verified yesterday that my '73 has the 1.5" rear brake shoes, and since I'm considering it as my "parts car", I'm thinking about using the rear brakes from it on the '72.

I'm curious what all ill need to swap over. Can just the brake assemblies be changed, or will I need to swap the uprights and trailing links too?

Has anyone tried this?

[cal44]

Pete,
as usual I am probably wrong but I would think just the drums and shoes. 
Would love too hear from the others on this.

Mike

[EuropaTC]

Hi Pete,

Just as I was thinking what to write, Mike pops in and beats me to it !

AFAIK it's just the brake assemblies and hub spacers (I looked at this option for my plain TC which has the smaller brake shoes) 

The driveshafts are the same on my parts list but there are different spacers to accommodate the wider shoes. I think you'd get away with just the spacers, drums, shoes and slave cylinders and retain the rest.   From pictures I've seen the actual slave cylinders are different but I don't know if that means the backplates are also different, I'd suspect not but then again this is Lotus we're talking about. 

Brian

[YellowS4DHC]

Pete,
Funny you should ask that just now.  I just opened up my rear brakes expecting to find 1.25 in linings and found that they are the TCS 1.5 in width. 

Don't know if the PO changed that or if that's original.  Car is a '72 Fed TC, no. 2328R.


Brian, I guess I'm going to have to try the '73 GT6 rear brake linings, I suspect those are the ones that fit a TCS.

It gets confusing when you don't know what's original and what's been done by prior POs.

Rick

[EuropaTC]

Ahh Rick, the DPO......   

Without drifting too far off topic, I might be able to add a bit to the TC & TCS rear shoe data. This weekend I was in the attic searching for Christmas stuff when I found an old trade Ferodo brake catalogue from the 70s so I looked up the Europa. The part numbers won't mean much now, but comparison with "what else used that shoe/pad" is handy, and also the fact that it gives illustrations of every shoe & brake pad listed with friction materials & dimensions. Obviously for matching those "I don't know the model but this is the old one I've just taken off " customers !

TC : F268G(1)
TCS : F310G(1)

F268G(1) was also used by the Triumph 1300, Vitesse and GT6 (1967-1971) and also the very early Ford Anglia. Size 8"x 1.25"

F310G(1) was also used by the Triumph GT6 Mk3 1972-74, Dolomite models 1500,TC & 1850, Morris Marina 1.8 (1971 only) Ford Capri 1300 73-75, base model Cortina 1300,1500,1600 (1967-70), Size 8" x 1.5"

Note that only applies to the shoes, the drums for the Fords at least will have different PCDs. The Triumph drums should be ok and I think (note "think") the Marina is the same.

Brian

[YellowS4DHC]

Yes, the dreaded uncertainty associated with old cars and questionable PO's. In my case, unfamiliarity with the model doesn't help.  Assistance on this forum is much appreciated.

Besides the 1.5" TCS linings, I've got the "automatic" adjuster feature that doesn't seem to work all that well (and isn't shown in any Europa parts list or WSM that I can find).  Wheel cyls are (I think) normal with 0.7" bores.  I wonder if anyone else with a Fed TC has this combination of parts.

Until I know more, I'll just plow ahead and replace/rebuild like-with-like and see if it works.  I may disconnect the automatic adjuster and adjust the rears by periodically pulling the drums off.

Rick

[andy harwood]

Let me start by saying I'm a Lotus newbie.
After purchase, in trying to get the parking brake to function (adjusting that cable is fun!) I started looking at the rear brakes. Mine are the self adjusting type ('74 TCS). One of the adjuster levers was jumping the cog wheel on the cylinder.
Also, the backing plates don't have a access hole to manually adjust. Is this normal? In my limited drum brake experience, there has always been a access hole on the backing plate.
I didn't measure the shoes for width, or the cylinder for bore.
Don't know if this helps or confirms your experience.
andyh

[EuropaTC]

Rick, it sounds like the previous owner has fitted the entire brake set from the TCS, or more likely IMO is that it came from Lotus like that. Years ago in the CLub Lotus magazine there were tales of Lotus just changing specs along the production line with "whatever was at hand" to get cars out, so perhaps we shouldn't be calling the PO's.

One trick that used to be done over here with 1960's & 70s Ford rear drums which also had the same sort of automatic adjustment ratchet,  was to drill a hole in the back plate directly in line with the self adjuster so you could get a screwdriver in and push the ratchet round and adjust the shoes. Then you'd put a rubber bung in it to keep water out.  It certainly wasn't OEM on the early (1966) brakes that I had because I drilled my own, but maybe it was introduced later.  Is that the sort of thing you've seen Andy ?   

[Bainford]

Also, the backing plates don't have a access hole to manually adjust. Is this normal? In my limited drum brake experience, there has always been a access hole on the backing plate.
andyh

Andy, My 74 TCS does NOT have the access hole either, so I think this must be normal. The manual seemed to indicate that the shoes needed backing off before removing the drum, but I'll be damned if I could find a way to do this. Thankfully the drums came off without too much grief.

[andy harwood]

That's it.
It seemed to indicate (if I remember correctly) in the manual to back off/loosen. Just didn't appear to be a way to do it.
My drum brake experience is limited though. A couple of cars I've owned had the adjuster hole with plug. I just thought that was a universal feature of drum brakes.
Maybe drilling a hole is a option.
Or disc brakes on the back....  Thats one way to get around the adjustment problem
andyh

[LotusJoe]

Or disc brakes on the back....  Thats one way to get around the adjustment problem
andyh

A rather expensive solution.....I'd just drill the hole 

[cal44]

Laddies,

Brian is correct on the hole in the backing plate.  I  have the automatic adjust as well and the hand brake that doesn't work. 
I will be drilling and making the round hole oblong then a proper rubber to be installed.

Four months ago I did the rear brakes right down to the bare backing plate and new everything....well almost,  had the drums fly cut.
Never got the ebrake to work.  Called Ken at Dave Bean and he  suggested the hole in the plate as well.
I reckon between Brian and Ken........it's gotta be right.....right?

Mike

[YellowS4DHC]

Mike, et al.

If you plan to drill an adjusting hole in the backplate (like I will be doing), then does it make sense to remove the automatic adjuster arm from the handbrake actuating lever also?  Just drill out the two rivets and remove the arm.  Seems pointless to keep the "automatic adjustment" mechanism if one drills a hole in the backplate for manual adjusting.  In my case, the arm was bent over and prevented the adjuster from rotating.  I think it makes sense to remove this also as part of the mod.

Rick

'72 Fed TC

[LotusJoe]

Gentleman, have you read your service bulletins?

Not the most elegant solution. But this will work.