#460002 - Restoration

[Serge]

Thanks for all the nice words!

There are some more videos coming, trying to do one every two weeks.

I agree about the tapered threads, would do it differently next time. But will see how this one works first.

3D printed intake manifolds:
https://youtu.be/zIVduZnAFRg

Oil pump:
https://youtu.be/xKi4X7PKAHo

Serge

[Serge]

A long video this time!

A lot of work on my cylinder head!

https://youtu.be/Q7el4SiTRkY

[BDA]

Another great video, Serge! When you were lapping the valves, it looked like there was a small step from the roof of the chamber to the seat of the exhaust valve. Was that a real step or was it something that you need there?

[jbcollier]

A proper valve seat is roughly 2mm in width and hits the valve on on the outer third of its machined face but not all the way to the edge.  I use three cutters to refinish the seat and trim it to the correct width and diameter: 45°, 30° and 60°.  If you just lap in your valves you end up with a very wide seat that will not seal, nor last, as well.

[jbcollier]

... very nice work opening up and blueprinting the chambers!

[Serge]

The valve seats have a 3 angle valve job, so they have 3 different radius' on the valve seat, only one will actually seal the valve. The other two give a better radius to flow.

The step on the roof of the chamber is something that was already there. In some places I tried to remove it a litlle bit, but I didn't want to get too close to the seat with the carbide cutter.

Serge

[jbcollier]

Then why all the lapping?

I will very lightly lap a valve at the end, but that's it.

[Serge]

Then why all the lapping?

I will very lightly lap a valve at the end, but that's it.

Because I was unsure on how well the valves sealed. In my mind it was better to quickly lap to make sure the surfaces sealed.


Serge

[jbcollier]

After the seats are ground and the valves refaced or replaced -- I always fit new exhaust valves -- I use bluing (AKA: Prussian Blue) to check seat contact.  Three dabs around the seat, spin the valve and all is revealed.

I'm old school, so once I'm happy with that, I very lightly do a valve lap at the end.  Most machine shops cringe when I say this and I think they are probably right.  I started with high-speed, valve seat grinders, now they use special cutters, much more precise.

[dakazman]

   Nice work on the videos, the body is coming along nicely.
The head work was amazing and Can’t wait to see more videos.
Dakazman
 

[BDA]

After the seats are ground and the valves refaced or replaced -- I always fit new exhaust valves -- I use bluing (AKA: Prussian Blue) to check seat contact.  Three dabs around the seat, spin the valve and all is revealed.

I'm old school, so once I'm happy with that, I very lightly do a valve lap at the end.  Most machine shops cringe when I say this and I think they are probably right.  I started with high-speed, valve seat grinders, now they use special cutters, much more precise.

I don't remember why we had this discussion but back when I was running my Midget racer in the '70s, a machinist I used for the critical stuff like the head, told me that if I was worried about quality of a valve's seal after a quality valve job had been done, to "freshen" the seal with something with very light and fine grit like toothpaste. He wanted to make sure I used the minimum grit possible.

I think your blue technique to determine if there is a problem in the first place is a great practice. if there isn't a problem, don't try to fix it.

[Rosco5000]

Serge!  I just saw your Instagram video, I hope the car is alright after its half somersault! 

[Serge]

Serge!  I just saw your Instagram video, I hope the car is alright after its half somersault!

Only a small crack where the windshield frame joins the roof, and this needed to be strengthened anyway (per Johns advice). Could have been a lot worse!

Modifying the tip over jig as we speak, don't want that to happen again!

Edit: the jig now works as intended. Will update with video later

Serge

[Rosco5000]

I'm glad you made the jig work, good idea to get to the underside.  Good thing you and the car are mostly in one piece.

[Serge]

I decided that I wanted high end shocks, didn't want to go for a 'lesser' damper after spending 8 years and all this money on the Europa. In the end I had Simon at Raceshocks.uk spec me custom Nitron coilovers. Ride frequencies of 1.74 in the front and 1.57 in the rear with a progressive spring in the rear.

All aluminium 40mm body, monotube design, single adjustable. Very high spec! Only downside is price, and that they have to be looked after. Is essentially a race damper, so service intervalls are about every 2 years. But they are built and valved for my specific application.

Details are in the video.

Now let's try to finish the damn car so I can drive it!

https://youtu.be/HUBq9mz61_E


Serge