1970 s2 0453R Reassembly

[BDA]

I have no experience with a 366 tranny but your pictures look like you have 2 synchros stacked on top of each other. I’d also advise you to look at my write up of my experience rebuilding my NG3 (https://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=6368.msg68576#msg68576). Obviously the details will be different but the design isn’t that much different but you might gain some insights and/or tips.

Somebody a while ago said his rule for clutches is, “If you see the clutch, change it.” I’d give the same advice on tranny bearings, seals, and o-rings. Do you want to tear the tranny apart to replace a bearing you could have replaced when you rebuilt it the last time?

It looked like renault16shop.com would probably have everything you’ll need (if they don’t list it, email them. They are very responsive!). If you need something they don’t have, 123bearing.com probably has it (if you don’t see it there, email their customer service. Not everything is properly listed). If they don’t have it, try Olivier (read my write up).

Good luck with the spare tranny!

[dakazman]

 
  I noticed the parts manual says I should have yellow synchros. Where are the colors found so I can verify.
 

I am far from an expert on such things, but I think the reference to "yellow" synchros might be an indication they should be made of brass or a bronze material.

 
    Bainford, Other than holding a magnet to mine they are steel. The manual explains the colors in section F page 21 .  I’m no expert either and not going to replace items just to do so . With only 86k on the odometer. That should be just breaking in .🤣 brass seems to be limited to the forks on the secondary.
  BDA , Thanks . I enjoyed your story. I remember reading parts of it when you documented it .
 321 has two bearings and Renault16shop had a slew of parts . I’ve purchased the pinion adjustment nuts and seals from them prior.  Remember that fiasco of getting them out?

 Gotta run and finish cutting the lawn so I can get to the installation of the spare gearbox. I’m interested in seeing what I purchased a few years back.
Dakazman
 

[dakazman]

   Long Day.
   If you know me ,... it has to look good.
  I took off the bottom link mount and re-threaded both gearbox holes with a fine thread ,it was the next size up and worked perfectly with the one damaged hole. Then making sure the bolt selected was not longer than needed. I found the source of my original gearbox oil leak was a longer bolt . That said it had cracked the case internally.
  Another test after getting it in will be making sure I have 4 forward gears and one reverse. This is a 336 - 66.  from initally testing when received it was all good.
  Lookin good, not polished as normal, painted with gloss black paint and proceeded to make a gasket for the bell housing. so there it lay ready for lifting. I'm Beat.
 Tomorrow, I know the clock is ticking for 0453r's debut at Daytona International Speedway on August 1ST. Track night, free lap on the speedway.  Trailer rental hopefully this week.
  Dakazman 
 

[Kendo]

I’m personally crossing my fingers, and clapping (Tinkerbell, you know) that you get the car all together and off to the show.

[314159td]

The manual explains the colors in section F page 21 . 

The colors are for tolerance grouping the press-fit parts; if you are keeping the same shaft and synchronizers hubs together you don't need to worry about it.
It basically means that from the factory, Renault determined that having looser tolerances and sorting parts that fit best was cheaper than making the tolerances tighter and all parts fully interchangeable. Also the cost of stocking all of those different tolerance group parts as spares.
There shouldn't be markings for that on the synchronizers themselves.

[dakazman]

  314159td
  Thanks for that info, I’m just a novice inside this thing. As JB and BDA stated bearings gotta go
 Races showing corrosion or overheating, but I need to get a better chart to confirm.

  The spare 336-66 in now installed. It took me the entire day to do so. A nap midday had priority.
I’ll fill the gearbox tomorrow and re-adjust the cam pulley.  It suppose-ably came out of a tc and was upgraded for a 5 speed .
  With 11 days to go my wife actually made some phone calls about renting a trailer for a 60 mile trip up to Daytona. Tomorrow’s road test and the rest of the week I’ll try to get it up to 50 mph. Tune carb and clean up some loose ends inside car.
  Then to try on the helmet required at track nite. Maybe next year I’ll opt for some real track time .
Dakazman
  Dakazman
 

[Bainford]

 
  I noticed the parts manual says I should have yellow synchros. Where are the colors found so I can verify.
 

I am far from an expert on such things, but I think the reference to "yellow" synchros might be an indication they should be made of brass or a bronze material.

 
    Bainford, Other than holding a magnet to mine they are steel. The manual explains the colors in section F page 21 . 

Cheers Dakazman. Thanks for the clarification. I'll wind my neck in now.

[dakazman]

  Trevor,
  I was under the assumption that they were made of brass also and routinely replaced.  I just saw the information and passed it on. I appreciate anyone who helps here.
 As far as road testing today, good and bad news , good it definitely has 4 forward and one reverse
Bad, Assuming that 1/3/ and reverse can be found.  Glad just to verify I will not have 4 reverse speeds. I did turn it and watched the direction but now I now for sure.
 Getting back to it now to adjust something.
 But first going to the manual to see where reverse is on a 336/66 gearbox .
Dakazman

[dakazman]

  Road test again tomorrow.  😁
   Ooops , I didn’t tighten this coupler on gearbox, after that in neutral all is well.
 Found the correct gear pattern in the parts manual, same as the -26, and 46 and I’ll add -56  and the 66 .  Dang, reverse lights work😁.
  But then there is the downside… the seals leak , BUT , maybe only when having the ass end raised up. So that’s a , to be determined “.
Dakazman

[dakazman]

   After adjusting the ball joint on front link ,to an extreme on the relay lever, I pushed the shifter extreme right but no help. Then went in the other direction, I succeeded in getting 1st and 3rd , Rev was a challenge, but I did get it . I'll lengthen the ball joint on the rear link which should make it easier. Then I furthered the clearance on the pully by countersinking the bolt head into it.
  Then as for having the exxon valdise, for seals on the gearbox I replaced both assemblies with the new set off my original gearbox from renault16shop, but since they leaked a bit I thought I'd try adding another O'ring on the differential shaft. Tightened both side exactly as when I took them off . 8 full turns plus 4 ribs, which was almost exact number on both sides as my gearbox.
   Its been 5 hours, not a drop on the floor.
 Dakazman

[Dilkris]

Unusual - your 2nd and 3rd photo's appear to show the adjustment shims (for roll pin interference) somehow still attached to the crown wheel bearing adjustment collar (also seal carrier) - is that right? They must be wedged within the seal somehow. 
Also - is that a single or double lip seal shown and where exactly is your additional "O ring" sitting? Is it on the face of the seal, between and in the recess of the 2 lips of the seal (assuming a double lip seal) - its clever and clearly forward thinking and a true credit to you - but I don't understand what it (or "they" for both sides) are going to do and moreover, how they are going to do it.
   

[dakazman]

 Dilkris, good eye on the shims. I sightless pushed the in there for safekeeping while moving them.
  The thinking of the additional o ring is to slightly push up the seal inner lip to put slightly more pressure on the differential seat .
  As I was answering this I ran out and checked my work . Two drops  dime size on each side of gearbox, I’ll take that as an improvement for now.
  Added pics to show improvement over previous above pic.
 Dakazman

[Dilkris]

Understood regarding the shims  - that's quite clever thinking with the additional o ring.
Regarding the oil seepage - it may well not be passing the seal that you are focusing on, but from the drive shaft spacer which equally provides the seal running face for the lip of your seal. Oil can (and does) pass between the common splines of this spacer and the drive shafts and should be prevented by doing so by an o ring which sits within the end recess of the said spacer. 
I fear I am not explaining this well but please refer to attached photo of the spacer, where you can clearly see the splines in question and the recess on the end for the O ring.
If you are not clear on the above please revert and I will drag out some more pictures and diagrams.     

[dakazman]

  You’re correct about the leaking in your pic and diagram. I had also replaced those under the caps, and greased the spline. The same seals that were there looked good so I left them in. So the two things I’m comparing are my new nut seals to my original gear leak which was larger then it is now with the added O ring. I took a picture after 24 hours still better .
 The pictured nuts and seal were on this gearbox were in terrible shape.
  I wonder if adding a Teflon seal shim might also help, we used them on 3000 lb hydraulic o rings.
 Dakazman
 

[Dilkris]

Looking at your first pic - when I reassembled my drive train I put Hylomar on that o ring before inserting the spacer on the output drive shaft, (from memory it was recommended from this forum). The second and thinner o ring there I assume is your revision to the main seal correct?
The second pic is worrying - the wear on that external face of the seal carrier/bearing preload nut looks like it has been making contact with the drive shaft yoke - running with a roll pin missing maybe?
Assembled correctly, with recommended seals and o rings plus Hylomar, (also on the nut/seal threads), they generally are trouble free.   
They have however regularly caused a whole world of pain and have been discussed at great length on this forum.
Good luck.