1970 s2 0453R Reassembly

[dakazman]

No problem Gavin,
  I laughed! It’s was true
Dakazman

[Rosco5000]

I love the gold gauge binnacle.  That is going to look very sharp in the black car.  Are you going to use the Gold as accents else where?
Cheers,
Ross

[dakazman]

  Thanks Rosco , Very possible, the center console bc it’s all glass and no ashtray . I may do some stripes, and a front air dam later. That’s when I put my daughters to work the photoshop in schemes.

  I repaired a lock assembly child lock tab that was wallowed out with some aluminum tape, rosin core solder and some additional flux . I filed the inner hole to clean out and place a chamfered edge on both sides. Placed a piece of aluminum tape on the underside of tab dabbed some flux and filled hole with solder. Drilled to size and now I have a latch the the rod doesn’t fall out of.
 
  My Zz4 motor is almost fully assembled and sitting on a harbor freight stand . Testing those limits of 1000 lbs. no it’s not polished, painted black and aluminum.  Running a modified cam , comp cam CL08-500 ,With  roller tappets .

[dakazman]

  Two steps forward, one step back.  I managed to adjust a door perfectly by myself , on and off only 3 times. However, the outside door tab on latch assembly is wallowed out and the new stay fell out.  I’ll solder it up and re-drill was he hole as before. I’m glad I caught it now and not after the window trim was installed.  Left side door final tomorrow. Then the window frames that have been drilled up and ready to go .  THe new felt also installed.
  My removable firewall panels Installed but need a layer of carbon fiber film then I’ll apply a 1/2 in rubberized to the Both side panels, then another 1/2 “ over entire wall. Then layer 3 the carpeting.
Dakazman

[BDA]

That's a generous firewall door! Nicely done, too!

You'll have to teach us how to adjust doors by yourself! Good on you, D'man!

[GavinT]

Looking good, D'man.

It appears your side panels are going to be fitted flush with the fibreglass near the tunnel - is that right?
My intention is to do the same because it'll provide ~ 1/2 inch more cabin length for my 6' 2"  frame.

That also means the upper panel should be moved rearward by the same ~ 1/2 inch in order to maintain the matching shape/angle of the seat back.
I've yet to determine if this creates an issue at the top of the upper panel where it's glassed into the body.

I've also read that it's best to install the panels with the body on the chassis to make sure the body is in it's final rest position. Apparently it's possible to end up with the body being wonky otherwise. I don't know the truth of that but it sounded plausible.

[bert knip]

Looks good D man,
Will your side panels be removable for tank acces, or are you keeping the hole in the bottom?
As I am 6'3" (and size 12) I made my firewall frame just a little more back, and make the panels flush with the frame.
Also in the engine room I will close the sides where the tanks are and insulate there, and probably not behind the seats.

I glassed my frame in without the body on the chassis, but I do not expect trouble with that.
But reinforcing the A pilars and roof I will definedly do with the windshield in place!

[dakazman]

  Hi guys, 
    I thought about that also being 5-11 and this is the best I could do. I put a seat back in and took a picture of the old mount holes with seat at firewall. Almost 3” but will have to install the tracks to get a answer on how much extra legroom I’ll get.
  Bert, nice job on the framework it will definitely need to be glassed in to prevent water getting to it.
My framework is all fiberglass and removable, no more hole in the bottom of car.
  Gavin , yes it’s flush. There are only 2 screws holding each  panel in . It’s sitting flat . The panels will not be tightened down until on frame.
  BDA, without window frame and motor assembly door is light. With the stainless R&D hinge kit I set both base assemblies without the locking nut. You only need one to get to the desired point. Set the food in with the lower washers, I used 3 . Place door in jamb and install rod. It’s easy to loosen on nut and move and shim door, then tighten one nut as much as possible. Pull rod out and tighten a little more without moving the center. Rehang door . Check which direction you want to move in necessary. One at a time. When happy pull rod and add the locking nut . I also have a quick release in place of the cotter pin . Another tip , with the R&D rod I added a 4” bolt in the bottom of rod to tap in and pull out rod.

[bert knip]

I do not think that water gets in my frame because it all welded.
I made the frame of a chromed clothing rack, and whe re its welded, I zink primered before paint.
But it will be fiberglassed in for strenght, and just in case water would get in.

I also got to my door hinges, and I decided to make poly bushings in the body, to eliminate wear of the bobbins.
Then it will be no problem when the hinges get stuck in the doors, its even better, because I want them to use the poly bushings.
I started a topic of the restauration of  1084 R so I will post pics there.

[dakazman]

  Productive day today by completing the hanging and adjusting the door functions . 😃 I have a few other tips and when I pull the pin out for the last time I will scribe in where pin cross hatch center line is.  My other tip for people who have the S/S mod . Do not use the sandpaper washer until you locate the CL . Another tip ,I did not use This but when tightening the 2nd lock nut use a large washer between the two, so that your Bonney wrench doesn’t nut turn the stop nut.
  Installed all my nutplates in fiberglass rails to secure panels. Another plus was that my new harbor freight pop rivet / rivnut gun worked perfectly but need a little mod to get to not small channels. I used another guns tip which was smaller and loose in the tip . I just put a washer under tip between the head and away we go.
   

[GavinT]

What's a "Bonney wrench" D'man?
Is it a Scottish spanner?

[dakazman]

  I know there is a joke in there somewhere but it’s the manufactures name.😂
  Firewall secured, now I can take it down again so it can mount the fuel tank only to remove that assembly also.
  Finished building my zz4 crate motor and will try to install it back in the vette tomorrow 😀. Then I can pull my 821 motor and gearbox and place the motor on the stand while I figure out why it’s not rotating. While it’s out I’ll replace the seals that were leaking badly.  So another one step forward, yep steps back.
Dakazman

[GavinT]

Thanks, D'man.
It was only half a joke. 

I thought "Bonney wrench" might be some sort of colloquialism . . sort of like 'multi-grips' and 'water pump' pliers.

[dakazman]

 Gavin,  Good thing their name wasn’t Bonny 😀...  anyway, from Front of seat How far is your front bolt, with seat all the way back?

Dakazman

[BobW]

  Another tip ,I did not use This but when tightening the 2nd lock nut use a large washer between the two, so that your Bonney wrench doesn’t nut turn the stop nut. 

I prefer a crowsfoot wrench for the door hinge nuts. It is easier to turn inside the door.