1970 s2 0453R Reassembly

[Certified Lotus]

I’m a no radio fan. If you want one for a long trip just bring along a self powered Bluetooth speaker and an iPhone loaded with tunes.

Plus you save weight without radio, speakers and wiring!

Back to the real subject, your assembly looking real good Dave 

[BobW]

And another vote for shiny. My radio doesn't work and I don't really miss it 

[dakazman]

Very cold here today 55F, so with the garage doors closed I’ll try to assemble the Weber DGV32/36 5A carb . I ordered a redline rebuild kit that I immediately found out it did not come with some basic parts.
I must have watched and read everything on the net and beyond. If anything I’ll have gained some knowledge.  I’ll keep you posted. Cleaning is done.
Dakazman

[BDA]

Pretty shiny, D'man, but I have to say, not up to your usual standards! 

[dakazman]

  I took JB’S advice from the engine and painted it . It’s turning out well and only need a few screw, set the float level and clean and attach some linkage. I may need to go back and find pictures from my blackberry several years back. I saved you the gory details this time. Lol 😉. The instructions sheet omitted the names of items giving only a number. Starting assembly with 1 and working till I felt comfortable with finishing up tomorrow.
  Finished up the fuel pump and installed. Tested wiper motor and install new wheelhouses.
It’s getting there , machinist back from vacation so I’ll run my last axle bearing by his shop.
Dakazman

[dakazman]

  Continued working on the carb linkage, good thing I transferred it to a piece of safety wire the way it came off the shafts. I laid it all out cleaned and reinstalled. Some clocking was needed and connecting to other shafts and stops.
 Choke arm still not smooth as I would like but I think I found the problem with the paint pastiche guide in housing.

1.  I also need some help with sorting out some items and carb base gaskets .
2.  Are these thick base gaskets necessary? Are they just for better atomization?

Dakazman

[jbcollier]

You need a thick "insulator" to reduce the amount of heat being transferred to the carb.

[dakazman]

   Thanks JB,
 While I was inspecting the insulators the air , vacuum have been pinched off into the chamber.
Do you recommend I open them back up, to get the airflow thru the base? It seems like a good idea.
My box of space carb and linkage is items is now empty and off my rapidly increasing space.
 
 Dakazman

[jbcollier]

No, don't open the insulators up.  Any port that needs connecting is relieved so it does.

[dakazman]

 Thanks JB , I’ll keep the pinched one and toss the other. See pic.

   Wheel box assemblies on and wiper motor works. For those who never saw the internals of the wiper assembly, here you go. The wheel box assembly walks on the cable when the head is turned. Still plenty of lubricant in the lines after 50 years. You can see they also come with new nuts which will be getting anti seize so they don’t end up like this old one.
Dakazman

[dakazman]

   Cleaned up the isolators and will use the pinched off one. Still need 3 throttle plate screws before I can mount carb . I just don’t want to drop anything down into the manifold. Placed in position to get a better idea of a fuel line and cables.
   Connected the shifter linkage and modified the Gearbox shifter rubber bellows with a spark plug sleeve cut in half and placed over the spring assembly one one side. The shifter side was trimmed down a little shorter no spring inside. I may add one, but it should do the job of the rubber bellows.
Dakazman

[dakazman]

   I’m going over some items I put aside and completed most. E brake cables now installed but still need adjustment after I get that last pesty bearing on the hub. It also seems that the cable should have been on the top of cooling tubes . The adjustment bracket taps the tubes when pulled. It was a joy to work on and I can’t imagine installing it with the body on.
  Rock guard on the radiator installed a little differently. I used screws from the inside, tightened with nuts , leaving enough of a stud to mount the Protective grill secured with nuts. Mount it this way makes it easier to clean, removal of radiator simplified, especially if you have a wheel well fan.
  The speedometer cable is installed the the frame however I may have I coming out in the wrong area, any comments?
  I also would like some opinions on a oil cooler location. See pic. Should it be lower than oil tank? The heat shield that’s also pictured is in the approximate location of a muffler. 
Dakazman
   PS . I had a run in with a snake that munched down on my right hand , luckily hitting the bone below the thumb. Swelling went down but it looked pretty bad at first.

[Certified Lotus]

Wow Dave, I hope you know what kind of snake bit you! Nasty swelling!  Clearly you were in a place the snake didn’t want you.

I think the speedo cable goes on the other side of the chassis (unless it’s RHD). On the TC chassis the speedo cable hole is on the side of the chassis. Where you currently have the speedo cable is where the oil line goes.

[BDA]

Ouch! I hope it wasn't really poisonous! We get copperheads here. I can really do without them.

You're making great progress! I think the best place for an oil cooler is in front of the radiator. I think the air flow out of the engine compartment will be similar between an S2 and a TC with a duct out the back - though the S2 will probably have a bit more flow out the back. I have a cooler that is under the luggage tray and exhausts out a louvered vent next to the license plate. The air flow out that vent is pretty ambiguous. Much more of the air goes out the vents in the engine cover.

[Certified Lotus]

Is an oil cooler stock with an S2? If it isn’t I would opt to not install it if your not going to track the car. Just another device with hoses and connections to leak.