1970 s2 0453R Reassembly

[Sandyman]

Dave, my Europa manual says that you should not grind the flywheel only replace it. Check with others as this may only apply to the1.5 L engine.
Sandy

[jbcollier]

You would use sealer where the o-ring seats against the cylinder and block.  Sealer applied after assembly would do nothing, and would be difficult to do.

Flywheels can be resurfaced but I seem to recall it is a stepped surface.  Make sure the machine shop realizes that.  Only resurface flywheels that are scored.  Rust can be easily cleaned up with sandpaper.

[dakazman]

Thanks JB,
 I’m doing the wedge motor with the paper seals so it goes on both sides of the paper?

Also should I shoot for the higher or lower spec of .005-.0075 . What is more successful?
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

Make sure the sleeves are shimmed correctly before applying sealer.  Just needs to be in the range.  Some people shim a little higher but I would stick within the recommended specs.  Remember to check protrusion at several points.  Swap sleeves and bores so the "long" sleeves go into the "low" bores.

[dakazman]

 Aughhhh I get it . That’s why I’m dry running the entire process over an over.
Thanks again!
Dave

[GavinT]

While cleaning up the valve train I noticed we can make a nice tool for adjustments to to lifter clearance. Get a 1/4 Rod, cut a 5/32 slot in it and cover it with a 5/16 tube. Put a ‘t’ handle on it and your good to go.

Yes, I made one too.
Of course, as soon as that was finished, I found out there’s a commercial one. 

[jbcollier]

The works on the wedge engines but the crossflow needs to be longer.  There are also two different lock nut sizes.  I have two of the factory tools: a short one with the right socket size and a long one with the wrong size.

[dakazman]

Galvin,  I figured there would be a special tool. I m waiting for my new credit card to get here so I can start buying stuff . I asked Steve Verdi’s to send me the alignment tools for both type engines . Then looking for a good 17ts workshop manual.  If the hemi head is within limits I could start with buying all new valves , etc.
JB
I’ll check the adjustments on the hemi and they are all the same when I broke them loose off the rail.
What is a right and wrong size?

   I have two of the factory tools: a short one with the right socket size and a long one with the wrong size.

Cleaned the liner bases today and found out why they were all within specs ., they still had the paper liners on them. Lol.
 Another shocking find is that these liner exterior are brass. No wonder I thought they were in good shape being that they were in a water cavity.
Dakazman

[dakazman]

It wasn’t as easy as I thought but I made it with scrap bits I had laying around.
I made it longer than I planned but it should work.

 The gearbox wrench is also coming along.
Dakazman
 

[GavinT]

The liners are cast iron. Perhaps you’ve been cleaning them with a brass wire brush?

You can see where the corrosion has crept in around the edges of the liner.
As long as that’s all there is, I expect some Hylomar (or whatever) would work.
Be sure to check for corrosion where the liner seats on the block - very important.

[dakazman]

  Yes I just changed out the brush to a brass wheel. This was the first time using it and I also looked like a porcupine. It is a very fine bristle. Well that explains that. I’ll see what it does to some different bolts.
   Thanks as always
Dakazman

[dakazman]

  Just getting that one thing a day done and so I installed the flywheel assembly. The 821-30 differs from the 843 in that it doesn’t have the index pin hole , even the crankshaft has one less hole. Install the ring set on the 1565cc  77 mm bore pistons. 
  Besides having tons on interruptions!!!  I loaned someone out my piston ring compressor so that’s another item to my, buy-list.🥴
Hopefully I will have my credit card back up by Monday. 🤬
Dakazman

[dakazman]

 Galvin,
  Getting back to that big cat, removed all the valves from the head and inspect it. As JB said it looks pooched. I will definitely order a complete set of both intake and exhaust sets to rival that gordini you lust for.  42 on exhaust , ? Intake valve?
 Some milling is in the cards also.
 The first  picture shows a spring seat washer on nbr 3 exhaust  that got pretty chewed up but yet the spring is not broken. The seat looks to be shot also .
 My other question is what I believe is an oil passage for the dizzy (distributor) on the milling job you showed us is completely gone  , is that a concern?

Dakazman
Ps, oil  on spark plug thread! Loose or leaking shaft?

[dakazman]

Finished up a gearbox wrench. Thanks for the plans. I’ll have to start reading the manual and talk with R&D to see what is available for the 336.
Dakazman

[GavinT]

G’day D’man,

Valve sizes on the R17TS:

Inlet: 42.1mm
Exhaust: 35.35mm

No idea about the mangled spring seat washer but presumably that didn’t happen in service?

Before you start contemplating milling the head, I’d suggest you plan out your expectations.
I’m not sufficiently familiar with the 843 as used in the US but wasn’t it originally from a Fuego Turbo? I ask because if that’s the case, I’d suspect the stock compression to be somewhat low. Consequently, you’d end up skimming too much material from the head to get it up to something reasonable for a non-turbo.

As a first step it’s probably best to use JB’s method and discover the existing compression ratio.
It may well be that higher compression pistons and leaving the head alone is the way to go.

Yes, that groove looks to be an oil splash for the dizzy.
I’ve never seen discussions of problems arising from it’s disappearance, but it’d likely be a trivial job to re-cut a groove in a skimmed head.

As an aside, that 807-G4 engine is an 1800cc twin cam, 16valve, so it’s in a rather different league.