1970 s2 0453R Reassembly

[dakazman]

  Then I did some cleaning and polishing….

[BDA]

Do they allow cars that are covered with a mirror in Florida?!

[TurboFource]

 

[SilverBeast]

  Then I did some cleaning and polishing….

We expect no less....

[dakazman]

  I have a car show, or something coming up on August 25th , Its weird how they promote it. there is a car club behind but they don't answer questions about who is allowed to show up. At 4$ for a bottle of water at this restaurant, I'll bring my own.
  Facebook , Urban Prime. A friend of mine kids work there so that's why I'm going.
 The Ferraris are intimidating. Judging on their pics and what I saw on the news with police guiding on lookers
 around, YIKES.
  Dakazman

[dakazman]

  I made it to this event only 15 minutes late. The weather looked bleak, with thunderstorms passing by all day, I decided not to take the Europa but instead the El Camino. It's better with rainstorms since I checked it to be water tight. when getting there it was packed with cars and spectators but there was only one street blocked off for participants. the restruant parking lot was no entry, only patron parking.
 So, I parked a few blocks down and walked.  It was amazing to see such fine cars, motorcycles and Golf carts. Lotus was represented with one car, a member of coastal auto rally. They support our police and it was evident, which is fine by me.
   Good thing I didn't take the Europa, the rod end was a few mis-shifts from shearing. My order from RD arrived in time for me to swap out but babysitting won out. We needed to step up as many grandparents would when an emergency crops up.  All is well now.
 My spare 336 gearbox seals that I had shown leaking were dry rotted and hard. then I torn into the differential shaft seals. Round seals don't belong here, Which is what I took out from my original, I swapped the assembly previously, the new square seals fit snugly and had a snap fit when pushed in place.
  The only difference with the differential nuts is Renault 16 shop assembly and what I ordered was the lack of a felt wiper and spacer.
   My needed bearings arrived for the primary shaft but now I wish I'd ordered the roll pin. I still also need to buy a bearing puller set, harbor freight here I come.
 Dakazman

[jbcollier]

I have a square seal on one side and an o-ring on the other.  Both sides are dry.  Properly done, either will work.

[dakazman]

  Thanks JB, any tips on pulling these bearings off ? Better yet getting the new ones on? Heat / freezer again?
Dave

[jbcollier]

Use a puller and a bearing splitter.  You’ll need a section of pipe so you don’t push against the output shaft.

I would cheerfully freeze an aluminum component if I had to slide a bearing over it but not otherwise.  Freezing steel makes very little dimensional difference.

[dakazman]

  I picked up a bearing removal tool and removed the two bearings that needed replacing. Then I cut off the bearing races so I can press the new bearings on . The front smaller bearing will need that pipe yo mentioned or a larger socket.  It wasn’t to bad removing with my new tool.
  That’s all I accomplished today after spending a half day with no electricity. Somewhere in our area the underground wiring was taken out by a lightning strike.

[dakazman]

  Productive day so far, 😁
  I pressed on the new bearings without a hitch and proceeded to assemble the gearbox. I should have done a few dry runs mating the two halves before adding the hylomar .  I figured out what had to be where but even still verifying the reverse and the tangs were extremely hard to see .
  I’m up to adding the rear housing but is there a way to check the internal shift before bolting down?  Spins freely and quietly now .
Dakazman

[BDA]

Yes you can check to see how it shifts, in fact, you should check at every opportunity till you put it back in the car.

Before you bolt the case halves together, you can pry on the shift forks with a screwdriver and push or pull on them to make sure you get all the gears. Then bolt the case halves together and check them again. The torque the nuts on the ends of the primary and secondary shafts and check it again. Then bolt the end cover on and check it by grabbing the selector input shaft (maybe using a screwdriver in the hole - usually there is one - in the shaft to turn it) and check to make sure it’s still good. You want to find out as soon as possible that something is wrong. Doing at every stage might help you find the cause of the problem.

Obviously, if your case halves are already bolted up, don’t take them apart unless there is a problem, but I’m sure you get the idea.

[dakazman]

  It’s all back together and shifting the way it is intended to .
 
  I’m learning its pattern and the slop and lack of stop on the reverse gate. I’ll try to make a gate pattern and stop on the rear case .  When the shaft moves to far over the gate to reverse is a 1/4” less.  I’ll make a video of the side to side movements.
   
  The other gearbox would not go into reverse so my road test canceled. Then the rain came so I just worked on the original gearbox .
 I also noticed on it that the differential races moved in the case but I believe they center when I adjust the nuts and set the preload . Right now the seals aren’t riding on the shafts.

[dakazman]

  With this thought in mind to find exact locations of the 336 shift gates.
So I cut a piece of angle and mounted it to the side of the gearbox cutting a hole so the shifter shaft can move through it. I’ll have to drill and tap the two holes in the box since they were modified.
  Once I get the channel mounded I’ll mark the points on the angle, then drill a roll pin through the gearbox shaft to glide into the gates in the angle. The reverse point extends past the end of the channel so I’ll weld in a section there and to stop the shafts movement past the reverse gate.
 You can see the awl in the background going through its movement angle related to the shaft.
  It was a super hot day today full of other things to do but I will get focused again soon on the drivability of my car.
Dakazman

[dakazman]

  I took it a little further today identifying the locations of the gates. Setting neutral and marking the angles of travel.  Drilled through the shaft to accept a m2 dowel pin . Reinstalled the bracket and drilled for neutral in the 3 gates . Now I just have to clear a path and that should take any guesswork out out the shifter.
 Once set and the linkage adjusted it could be removed or kept for other improvements.
  I did add lightness. 😁 I cut a bunch of excess angle off and will continue to.
Or it could be a complete waste of my time.
Dakazman