1970 s2 0453R Reassembly

[dakazman]

  I believe I found and temporarily fixed the grinding noise when going for 1st or third with engine running.
  Like i said previously the fulcrum bolt was loose, the elastic stop nut is worn out and I could turn it by hand .  Then I saw the grinding noise origin. I’ll replace this one fitting and change out the crankshaft pulley bolt with something with less of a head .
 I’ll road test tomorrow, but feel confident.

[TurboFource]

Well that would certainly make a grinding noise!

[BDA]

I’d say that rod end is a little too close to that pulley!

[dakazman]

 Turbo , yes it did, but I was happy it’s not synchros. ( testing for sure tomorrow)
  BDA, The bottom picture  , in gear, is the distance now that the center pivot is in its place .
 That’s an 18mm head on that bolt holding the pulley on. I’ll look for a replacement. The cross rod ends have an upgraded number in the manual that I’ll also be replacing.
  The manual is a little confusing to follow the names of the rods and purpose. Not to mention watching vertical movement on others.
  Dakazman

[dakazman]

   Not new to plan C..D,E,F,  Its a definite that the pully bolt be changed out to something with less of a head .
     That didn't get me down as I went for a ride around two different blocks in my area. Hitting speeds of 30 mph in second at 3000.
         I have a new found fear now.
   Coming head on to vehicles that are twice your height, on roads without a centerline was scary, and I found myself steering for the curbs.  Still its extremely exhilarating to drive.
  Starting is still a problem without starting fluid, but now at least the engine idols nicely at 1500 , I bring that down to specs soon.
  At least now I can charge up the A/C system and play with that also.
 Dakazman 

[dakazman]

 
   I finally got all my gears with no grinding.  I took the crank 19MM M12x1.25.x50 bolt out and replaced it with a shaved down bolt.
 I still have some operator error to factor in, getting used to where the sweet spot is... or or that fact where any of them are. 
  Idle good at 800 rpm but need to adjust carb. My cheap choke cable doesn't quite fully return fully.  Still needing a shot of starting fluid but starts easily afterwards.
  With all the idling water temp stays between n and h.
  I'll call this a win today, I drove it another 2 miles, this time without worrying about stalling out so braking was easier with my big foot out of the way with the clutch pedal in. Everything is a learning curve.,but I LOVE this car .
Dakazman

[TurboFource]

 

[BDA]

   time for

[Pfreen]

👍

[dakazman]

 
  Well that was short lived! Came out to this on the floor. See pic.
 Gearbox needs to come out , heavy oil leak out of bellhousing. Probably the seal !
 At least the job is fresh in my mind and I like to beat my own times. It’s a sick obsession.
 Dakazman

[BDA]

Bummer!!

[dakazman]

 Gearbox out .
 Started about 9am and out at 10:30 .
 Now to tear down. You can still see the oil coming out of the lower drain hole .  I m pretty sure I ordered an extra seal for my spare gearbox, so hopefully I’ll have this back together today.
 My hoist was a lifesaver to lift , twist, rotate and lower .
Dakazman

[dakazman]

  I think I found the problem.
  Is this seal in backwards ? You’re looking at it from the pressure side.
Dakazman

[BDA]

The seal should be oriented such that the oil is on the "open" side of the seal. Or put another way, any oil pressure should augment the pressure imparted by the spring that holds the seal against the shaft. Does that help?

[jbcollier]

Yup, backwards