1970 s2 0453R Reassembly

[dakazman]

  Clear sailing… lol .
  Grandkids coming over and helping my daughter and son-in-law watch the kiddos.
I don’t know when my back feels worse, climbing into the Europa or chasing kids around my house.
  I did he if to do some work but knowing that this would be the last time dropping the dash down I spent an enormous amount of time rechecking everything.
  Dash and seatbelts assemblies installed.
Dakazman

[dakazman]

  Still doing baby steps getting Dolly up and running.
Grandkids come first and I get to straighten my back up . I’m now up to installing the steering wheel but need to put back on a few wires I pulled off. Then finish tightening the column nuts.
  I added 6 gallons of fuel to the tank but no indication on the gauge 🥱 . It worked when I bench tested it. I’ll hook it up tomorrow and take out the temp tank. Then I installed the crashpad and now just have the console to install. Then back inside the car to glue the edges of the headliner. 😵‍💫
 Then to do a final mounting of the fuse box and relay panel.
  At least now I can go for a road test
 Which way do the wiper arm go? Straight one , bent one?
 Almost there!
Dakazman

[BDA]

I’ve seen wiper arms both ways. I thought I remembered how they went when my car was new - bent one on the driver’s side. But I could be wrong. They do work that way.

[dakazman]

 That makes sense , that it ,the bent arm would hover over the straight arm when at rest.
Thanks 😉
Dakazman

[dakazman]

  After taking a few detours on car shows, birthdays and just about everything else I got a few days of work on the lotus.
In fact having enough courage and faith that I pushed her out of the garage and started her up again but this time being fed by the OEM fuel tank. I removed the temp tank added a inline fuel filter and she started right up after a shot of starting fluid.
  While idling a bit I jump in camera going only to find a problem with my gas pedal not returning to idol. I decided to not chance a first drive. some other instruments weren't come on line either, tacho and fuel.  Then I saw steam coming from engine compartment, shut down engine and opened lid to find it overheating with fluid in compartment. afterwards I found I did not have the temp switch to the radiator hooked up, my bad... Then while pushing it into garage I found a puddle of engine oil... work in progress, but probably the fitting from the electric that I took out and went with a pressure line and gauge.
  Maybe tomorrow,
  PS, you wouldn't believe what fixed my van from dying at 40 MPH but showing 100 MPH,  Changed out the instrument cluster , operation now normal. Signal from VSS to cluster then to ecm. The ecm gave up and shut down engine.
,
Dakazman 

[BDA]

It's good that you found those problems before you ventured out in traffic! Better luck for tomorrow, D'man!!

[dakazman]

Here are some pics .  The last two are reality 🥱
D’man

[dakazman]

   Today was a half day, I had some landscaping chores the wife dreamed up and a trip to buy everything.
   Then I found the oil leak , a low oil pressure sensor was not fully tightened... simple.
   The overheat , might have been caused by a swirl pot cap not fully tightened. I thought the otter switch wasnt hooked up but the sensor was. I had a worm gear clamp on the overflow tube line that prevented the caps engagement,... hopefully.
  Fixed the clutch pedal rearward movement by adding a bracket for a stop. yes, I screwed up and built the stop on the firewall side when I rebuilt the rusted out original assembly.
  Freed up the throttle cable but the choke doesn't move.  Tomorrow is another day sadly.

Dakazman
     

[dakazman]

  Again another setback.
  Oil leak was the connectors to the block. I guess I’ll order the low oil pressure light sensor and it mounting boss.
 Then my water leak was just the cap , where did the rubber gasket go in 35 years??? New cap should fix but after fixing the throttle cable connection and a different return spring, the hung throttle cable is now fixed. I’m still looking for a dual spring setup.
 Then the big setback, but not for taking it for a test drive and was breaking the he choke cable anchor at the carb,,, made in China or I believe it was Redman.  I’ll check my Weber extra pieces on Monday, hopefully
Dakazman

[dakazman]

  I’m a little disappointed with still not driving her after replacing the choke cable and finding my mistakes on the the throttle cable. The new radiator cap fixed the problem with leaking. The oil origin leak still eludes me . Finding clean oil is difficult with the engine off after the puddle is found.
  The carb seems to bog a little coming off idle. The pedal has a slight hang up returning to idle also.
  My console is now installed but I will loosen it to check the run.
Then I need to re tighten the cam belt and get rid of a slight wobble . The belt adjustment is on a learning process. Hiding the rest of the harness is next !
   Then getting the gearbox in first was grinding as was the rest.  I just want to scream …
Dakazman

[BDA]

Things are looking good! 

I believe bogging is generally a sign of a rich mixture. Try turning in the idle mixture screws a quarter of a turn each until it goes away.

[jbcollier]

The most common place for an oil leak on this engine is the valve cover.  The oil makes its way down and can easily look ill it is leaking from somewhere else.  Carefully feel around the cover with a dry finger.  If it becomes oily, you've found your problem.

[dakazman]

  I found it. 
     Being interrupted strikes again. When selecting a location for the oil pressure gauge line adapter I removed the most forward oil gallery plug as it was the closest to the firewall, but the adapter was the wrong thread pattern. I put the plug back in but with a large 17mm wrench . I must have hit the block stopping the wrench and didn’t look at the copper washer still loose. 🥱
  Now to adjust the clutch cable, hopefully I didn’t pull the swedged ball off under the gas pedal.
Dakazman

[dakazman]

  Today was an interesting one, I fixed the oil leak but before running again I tried to install the 7mm roll pins in the haft shafts.  I quit.😡 put in a machine bolt with an elastic stop nut.
  Then I came up with measuring thd cam pulley thickness and adjusting the nuts in or out to get the belt to sit with the correct amount of deflection. After running for a bit I found another leak , this time on the upper hose to the radiator, tightened same no further issues.
  Then I sat in the car to adjust mirrors ,   🥱😂😂😂I locked myself in, but good thing the window came down and I opened from the outside. Child lock in either position I still can’t open from the inside.
  I did get to put the timing light on an it was at 2 degrees btdc , set to 6 .  Before setting it still wouldn’t start unless hit with some starting fluid.
 Clutch pedal fixed for now, but did not confirm the fix .  It was in my pedal assembly clutch bracket. I can now drive and fix the pedal later.
 Throttle still sticking somewhere. Tomorrow…
Dakazman

[Richard48Y]

Yes, the roll-pins are a pain.
I am going to fire up the lathe and make a tool.
Just a punch with a guide pin for the outer with a shoulder to drive it in.
The inner should be easier, I think.