1970 s2 0453R Reassembly

[dakazman]

  Hey JB ,
  I pulled that picture off , or I thought I did.
That build card must be for a different customer that was probably in the box they shipped it to me in .
It says small block Chevy , hydraulic lifters and maybe too many lobes or cylinders.

  I do have a crossflow also but not in car, so your memory is fine. It has dual 45’s dcoes . Maybe I should just pull one off and install on this problem child. It’s new , from China.🥱🥴
  At this point it may help.
  I still have a lot of studying to do.

  I’ll see what jets are in them.
Dave
 
   
 

[dakazman]

 I went and removed the Weber 40 dcoe and then explored a brand new 45 DCOE Weber KNOCK-OFF called  Reedmoral, made by Lantech.  I tried to get all the jet sizes so I have a better understanding of these designations and a baseline of what would be the next size, larger or smaller to buy.
  See pic , I did not get far or much information and will probably have to get in touch 😂😂😂😂 with the seller on eBay for answers.
  Trying to get answers while comparing info from the book pictured. With no identifying numbers I used a welding tip cleaner to at least get some measurement which was a 10  opening 68-70.
   Ready to install it , can’t wait for this next attempted run. 🤞
  Dakazman
PS getting ready to install a new clutch kit afterwards.  Step by step , thanks RD.

[jbcollier]

I'm not familiar with the "Chinese" Webers.  Italian DCOEs are happiest when you use an idle jet that results in 3/4T to 2T out on the mix screws.  Spanish DCOEs are happier in the 4T to 6T range.

[dakazman]

  JB, yep, I agree and that's what all the videos say 3/4 to 3 turns max
   Just finished up installing it this morning,
   After setting this model I found it was 3 turns out of box. so I set for 1 1/2 turns. no start, 1 turn, no start. checked fuel to carb, check good.  went to 2 turns and back up to 3... The engine started and ran beautifully, so I ran it at 2500 rpm for about 10 minutes, then brought it down to 800 idle.
 So smooth.
 Then the wife came out to smell all the oil burning ... she offered to do another video. so, I posted it just now to youtube. Its short because I ran out of gas  Other than not knowing what jets are in it  seems to progress well.

https://youtube.com/shorts/LjpzbxN5fzY?si=pbPra-tIiHZqq2SR

 rechecking the valves and going to tighten these rocker cover knurled nuts a bit more than finger tight. 
 Moving forward.
Dakazman
 

[BDA]

That's got to feel good!!!     

[dakazman]

  Oh , YES it does BDA !
 
  It would feel better if I knew what jets are in it .  I have a message out to seller to find out more information.
  Now I’ll fine tune it a bit and put the firewall in after adding the ac lines. Also waiting on an oil pressure Smiths mechanical gauge .
 Windscreen is probably next after clutch kit.
Dakazman

   

[BDA]

Most of the jets are easy to get to. The main jet is at the bottom of the emulsion tube, the idle jet is at the bottom of the idle jet holder - both the idle jet holder and emulsion tube are accessible after only taking the jet inspection cover off. The accelerator pump jet is a bit more difficult to get to IIRC. It's a little more involved to get to the aux venturi and the choke but I assume with only one carb, it wouldn't be a big deal to take the carb off and check to see what you've got.

I found this handy exploded diagram which finds the name of the part when you hover over it with your mouse. It's the latest Spanish type carb but except for the air bypass system for a fine balance between two throats of the same carb, they are the same (https://www.carb.parts/exploded_view/WEBER_45_DCOE_152).

[Richard48Y]

If that is a Chinese carb I fear you may have issues getting consistently sized and correctly marked jets.
Genuine Weber may not fit either.
Please use a ColorTune or some other means to confirm that both sides match for mixture.

[BDA]

I use a ColorTune too, although they are looked down on by "real carb tuners." Gunson says that a blue flame is what you are shooting for but I've found that half yellow half blue works best for me. I got the idea to try that from a another guy who used it on his Elan (TC motor) who said that it had to show a rich mixture to work for him.

If you haven't used one before, it may be a bit confusing because you can get both blue and yellow flames at the same time you get some blue flames and some yellow flames. It seemed to work best for me when I tried to "average" the blue and yellow together and shoot for an equal amount of each overall.

Having said that, I am nobody's carb tuner. I can only say that I monkeyed with mine over a long time to get it where it is today which is not to say it is perfect. It does not pop or spit, when warm; it idles it is very smoothly; it generally behaves itself under all driving conditions except when stomping on the gas from a stop when it bogs down (this is pretty easy to drive around). So, it's not perfect but it was undrivable when I tried to have a consistent blue flame.

[dakazman]

  BDA , I did disassemble it and pulled the jets and e tube out . It’s in one of the pictures above.
It doesn’t say china anywhere on it but the seller text tells you something about the origin.
  I just realized that for the first time in 35 years living in my house that all 7/9 2 daughters cars are all running.
  I saw those tools on the videos and will probably pick them up . My old flow tube that I owned since the 70’s my have to much dust on it .

  Richard , I’m still learning the graduations of them all . I saw sets for sale but if your jets aren’t labeled what do you buy.  This one seems to do what the videos show and as JB said it could be a knockoff from the Spanish version. I do have another one on the crossflow engine that I’ll check for some more numbers. 
JB posted the crossflow jets a few pages back that he uses. I could start there or leave it alone for awhile as long as this runs.
 I have tons more to do.

  Then I got my grandson a Christmas gift that I need to paint and make a garage for his collection.😂

Dakazman

[BDA]

There should be a stamp or a marking somewhere on the jet and e-tube to tell you what it is. In fact, the number for the e-tube in the last picture shows a number but I can't read it. The idle jet just pulls out of the holder (in your first jet picture). IIRC, you mentioned that you have a 40 DCOE 8. The picture here (https://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=2058.msg66662#msg66662) shows a genuine Italian Weber. Yours looks brand new, or likely NOS, while I have the same vintage in 45mm (45 DCOE 9 produced in the late '70s through early '80s at least). It appears to say "Weber" on the cover and I don't think even the Chinese would try to make such a blatant counterfeit.

The number stamped on the butterfly designates the angle the butterfly makes when fully closed. IIRC, there are two different flavors and the idea is to alter the relationship between when the butterfly opens and when it sweeps across the progression holes (under a brass screw cover behind the mixture screw). I wouldn't change your butterflies unless you had a really good reason to do so and I don't know of a reason. The progression holes help to smooth out the mixture between the idle circuit. IIRC, as the butterfly opens up, there is less vacuum in the idle circuit but not enough to draw sufficient fuel up the main circuit so the p-holes (as they are sometimes called) provide extra fuel during that transition. Different Webers have different numbers and orientations of p-holes. Some people have to add new ones and others might plug some. I'd leave them alone (but it might be useful to note how many you have) unless you have a good reason.

[dakazman]

  The 40 dcoe was rebuilt in March of 2019 , time flies ,  and I put that on a link to the correct page.
The vendor diagram is there also and all my notes. As JB stated the start jet is too big and he was correct. The engine would not idle, so for that REAL Weber I’ll have to get something smaller for that position. Then the next and so on . That’s why I just went with the reedmoral dcoe carb off eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/392698837272?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=dU95eLLlT-e&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=QOunqopVSxS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS
 I’ll probably pick up another just to close up the holes on the crossflow on the engine stand.
    I’ll play with that engine soon 😂 as it is almost ready to run on the stand I made years ago, but not completely finished with a start circuit. I also need a starter and wires , coil etc.

  Dakazman
 
 

[dakazman]

  Found some answers to my questions.
 Carb type- part number- then sizes in mm
 
   Now I see why people drill their own.  I’m on my journey to this secret society that have back parking lot trades in jets..😂

 Dakazman

[dakazman]

  After rocker re-adjustment which all were still very close ( <.oo1)  ran engine and was able to adjust the idle screw.
  Don’t like this smoke , so I’ll pull the plugs and see what they look like . Hopefully not oil soaked🫣😢
  Upload another video here:

https://youtu.be/PhW92TpzkOg?si=ahXB7oE2sOnneCIx
 
   Never a dull moment!

   Decided to install the windscreen next so it doesn’t get broken and is out of the El Camino bed.

   PS: Could'nt stop thinking about oil smoke , so I pulled the two center plugs,  just black dry soot,...  duh, to rich a mixture.


   

[BDA]

 

There does seem to be a lot of oil smoke. I couldn't tell how much was coming from the tail pipe but there does seem to be a fair amount coming off the engine. Usually, this is not a big deal and comes from oily hand prints, previous spill or leak, other residue left on the exhaust or engine block, etc. A little bit coming out the tailpipe might be expected till the rings wear in.