1970 s2 0453R Reassembly

[dakazman]

  Thanks guys, 
  Appreciate the input.
    Now , how about adding a 5/8 threaded nipple in the back of block routed back to the water pump?
There is plenty of room and I believe it would help cooling. I remember a conversation about a modification to the head doing the same . Just spitballing!
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

Bypassing the rad?  How would that help with cooling?

[dakazman]

 

Bypassing the rad?  How would that help with cooling?

  No JB , not bypassing the rad, from the lower forward block to the outlet side of water pump to rad.
Isn’t there a relief line in the forward side of the head on some engines ? I have a plate on the head of the 843 crossflow that was used for something.
  I don’t believe it would disrupt the flow of coolant in head but rather cycle it faster.
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

I think you are pointing at the outlet for the heater.  Coolant will flow out there and back into the fitting you plan on putting in the block.  You are just bypassing the rad.

Some bypassing flow is a good idea for quicker warm ups and maintaining flow though the engine so you don't get hot spots during warm up.  That's why there is a small bypass already built into the pump.

[dakazman]

  Thanks JB , but one more question, then the other side of the water pump is the inlet side of the heater creating a hot flow per day in a cycle.  Okay that makes sense, and would not really cool down water temps except with the addition of the heater radiator.
  Case closed. 
    I did find the small cavity that supplies the water temp clogged on this engine
  The temp gauge probably still worked reading metal temps. I recommend removing your temp gauge sender and make sure water flows out.
   I also received some feedback on sealing the block using evans coolant, and PRV 880 that I don’t believe will hold up with the heat. Still looking for marine applications that cycle salt water thru. The outdrives . They are aluminum cases that really need corrosion control.
Dakazman
 

[jbcollier]

In the 60s and 70s, most North American shops didn’t have a clue about using the correct coolant with an aluminium engine.  Truth be told, the coolant back then wasn’t actually that good either and needed to be changed often.  It usually wasn’t which gave disastrous results — yet another thing to blame on those darn foreigners.  Anyway, modern coolant is actually very good; lasts a long time, too.  If you are in a warm place mix 40% antifreeze with 60% water and you’ll be fine.  Colder?  Go 50/50.  Really $&@# cold? 60% antifreeze and 40% water.

[dakazman]

  Finishing up some wiring and found my electric heater that is now hooked up on its own circuit going thru 40 amp relay
with 10 gauge wire is getting hot to the touch, but can hold onto covering on the supply side . matching 10 gauge ground on the other side .
 using what looks like two 16 gage wires that were original into the two heating elements all original.
  Should I be weary of this or should I recheck all connections or/and increase the internal grounds?
  Its really my first circuit that I used a relay in , soldered in all leads going into relay.  relay is on unit with less than 6"of 16 gauge. When testing off battery direct it drew 32amps and wires were also hot , but now just a bit hotter.

  Dakazman

[Kendo]

What is the current rating of the relay?

[dakazman]

 They are rated 12V 40 amps, 5 pin , I purchased them off eBay as a 5 pack. Holder and relay with short lead. I un crimped and soldered in the connectors afterwards.
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

I don't think a relay rated at 40 amps can actually take a steady 40 amp load; a momentary load like a horn or starter, sure..  I would fit a 70 amp relay for a steady high load like that.  A 70 amp relay also has larger connectors to better handle the load.  Same with the wiring, 8G will reduce the heat produced by the high current.  Is your battery still in the back?  High currents require thicker wire to cover a long distance.

That said, you have a "free" source of heat sitting right behind you.  Using it puts no extra load on the engine.  In fact it helps with the wee-bit marginal cooling system.  Your system adds load and heat to make heat. YMMV

[dakazman]

 JB, agreed, thinking of a plan “XYZ” for another time .
 
   For now I think it may be just having these connections to close to one another. 

   Pic1 bypassing the relay , wire that I’m pointing to stayed hot After running directly to the element. The white connector and the two red leads are from the mfg.
   Pic 2
  Deleted the short red lead that I had going into the relay , for testing, wires and connections cool as can be after several minutes.
  Pic 3, The short lead did have a mismatch of terminals , large to smaller spade that I thought would be the culprit but that not it because the pic 2 terminals are mismatched.
  Pic 4 , I dissected the covering and checked my soldered joint.  Wire was from the mfg and could be at fault now that I’m writing about it .
  Dakazman
 
 

[dakazman]

  Bingo,
 Cut into the  shielding of manufactures terminal wire , broken strands everywhere.
 I’ll post back when repaired.
Dakazman 😁
 

[dakazman]

  This might fix it .  new 10 gauge, soldered terminals  going back in to the relay from the disconnect.
 Fingers crossed.
Dakazman

[dakazman]

   After my afternoon nap, assembled and tested for 10 minutes, wires as cool as can be. Not even warm.
   So now I just have to wire in the ac compressor and condenser fan into its new relay box. It contains another battery fed position and several ignition fed positions. I’m really interested in just one right now and that’s the engine circuit.
 
Dakazman

[BDA]