1970 s2 0453R Reassembly

[BDA]

I would use some spray lock lubricant when you put it back together.

That might be the only thing I didn’t take apart on my car!

[Kendo]

From my misspent youth learning about locks and trying to pick them, I recall that one should only lubricate locks with dry graphite. Something about liquid lubes collecting dirt and other grime. Thoughts on the matter?

[gideon]

I thought maybe a good squirt of spray grease would get into a lock mechanism and stay there.  This sort of thing is a little bit of grease carried in a lot of solvent -

https://www.wd40.com/products/white-lithium-grease

It probably provides better penetration and corrosion protection than a dry lube, but maybe the dirt and grime factor outweighs that.  I don't know for sure.

[dakazman]

 I agree with kendo! I use the “spray in dry graphite” in all my home locks . Keys glide in like butter.
Dakazman

[dakazman]

  I used a jewelers file to remove corrosion from the inside of the sleeve , the red is the reflection of the surface area. I will use a light graphite lock powder.
Dakazman

[BDA]

I agree that you should not use a liquid lubricant for the reasons Kendo suggested. I would not use regular WD-40 though WD-40 does sell a spray dry lock lubricant which looks good.

Here's what I use (https://www.acehardware.com/departments/automotive-rv-and-marine/fluids-and-lubrication/lubricants/13366). The carrier evaporates and leaves the graphite behind. I think the fact that there is a liquid carrier helps coat more of the moving parts with the graphite. It works great for the locks at home too! There are other brands that do the same thing.

[dakazman]

  It feels good to be back in my garage and working on the Europa.
 
   Since I hate when you have a dash component not working or hooked up to anything and I’m glad I remembered to do this one last thing before installing the dash. I fabricated an E-brake “ON” light using the existing brake fail light indicator.  Using a microswitch ,aluminum and hardware I had laying around. I just had to do it.🥱🤣   Bent up a bracket that can be swiveled and mounted the switch
Now just to install screws to hold the plate down and wire up to a LED .

Dakazman

[Kendo]

Clever solution. Is the wiring going to appear in your relevant diagram?

[dakazman]

   Yes it will, I removed it long ago when the master brake cylinder was changed out loosing the level sensor. See pic. This is the S2 fed but I did the s2 and S2 Uk the same .
  The new circuit pretty much follows the brake fail but I’ll change out the wire colors to yellow from purple. Keeping red and black to LED light assembly.

Dakazman

[dakazman]

  I received my ignition switch assembly and it’s a triumph spitfire assembly. The operation of it is that when key is inserted in position O and turned to position 1 locking shaft slides up .
When you move the key from position 1 to O lock assembly tab stays up , it’s not until you remove the key that the tab locks the assembly.

  Kendo this is a final look at the wire runs before I install it .
Dakazman

[BDA]

Looks just like mine!

[dakazman]

  How about now , BDA ?
 
    Some people wanted to know how to polish aluminum so I spent about an hour with a file and some 220 grit paper. After sanded I ran on buffer with green rouge. Here is the results.  I can sand it again with 400 and the finish would be more mirror like and the sanding marks removed  . Just passing on the process.
Dakazman

[BDA]

Nope. Now it doesn't look at all like mine! 

[dakazman]

  I all most just painted it satin black but needed a example piece . I guess I just blended out too many fan blades so that they wouldn’t crack. Pilots are always looking for a reason to vacation another day and look for technically minor safety items.  Not on my watch!
Dakazman

[Bryan Boyle]

  It feels good to be back in my garage and working on the Europa.
 
   Since I hate when you have a dash component not working or hooked up to anything and I’m glad I remembered to do this one last thing before installing the dash. I fabricated an E-brake “ON” light using the existing brake fail light indicator.  Using a microswitch ,aluminum and hardware I had laying around. I just had to do it.🥱🤣   Bent up a bracket that can be swiveled and mounted the switch
Now just to install screws to hold the plate down and wire up to a LED .

Dakazman

Actually, if you're using your original handbrake handle...there are one or two welded bosses (actually nuts) at the lower end that accept the handbrake switch (036M6030) as used in the +2s; I wanted to do the same thing as you, just used that switch and the lead from the brake fail test switch to activate the light.  (FWIW, you could also source the same switch as used on the TCS that is used to work with that infernal seat belt interlock circuit; it has an extra set of contacts that light the Brake light in the binnacle.)