1970 s2 0453R Reassembly

[dakazman]

 Trying to close up some loose ends and ran across the need to gang my new amp meter . The problem is the 9.5 mm .375 connectors. I need a piggyback or shyi just cut and re-terminate?
The original amp gauge had this option. 🤔
My searches have been coming up empty , but I can ask RD or the mfg of the gauge I purchased from rd. Any fast advice?
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

Is that the original ammeter?  If so, can you post a photo of the back of the new gauge?

[dakazman]

  That’s the old gauge.  I can take a better pic tomorrow.
  The spade connectors I found are the smaller size . See pics
A double.375 , would work perfectly and I’ll change out the two other connections I need to hookup.
I found they call them VW style.
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

Generally speaking, adding connections within connections is not a good idea.  This is especially so at a high current location like the ammeter.  If it was mine, I would either switch to a voltmeter, find a different ammeter (with post connections so I could add connectors rather than having to nest them), or have the original gauge repaired.

[dakazman]

  I haven’t exhausted all the simple fixes, however I do heed the warning.
The original s2 schematic diagram shows the connections that need to to be connected at this point.
I have an email sent to the gauge manufacturer with his recommendations. Post back soon when and if I hear back.
  A PO took out the black junction and also connected it to the meter.
I could increase the  .25 spade to a .375 to make it easier to find a multi connector , or add a junction on both sides to gauge.
Dakazman

[califkid_66]

There’s five wires connecting to the ammeter I put connectors on each
Battery and Alternator I put on the tabs then the other three I put individually on
The bolt holding the tabs one going to fuse box one ignition and one for lights
works great before they were joined together I prefer joining them at the ammeter and not making joints in the wiring like it was before
What is wrong with the old ammeter if it doesn’t work looks at my write up you can see how I fixed mine or you can send it to me I’ll fix it for you
I prefer the old style ammeter not to crazy about the new two tab one

[dakazman]

Califkid,  correct five wires to two tabs.
   I replaced the original 30-0-30 gauge to a 60-0-60 gauge.  Added a 100 amp variable alternator to handle the electric heater/ defogger and the A/C compressor and condenser fans additional load.
  Hooking up the A/c , LP cutout , clutch, condenser fan and the cabin fan from the units control knobs.
  My heater carries a 35 amp load when heat is on . The console lever will turn the heat on just like an original car, but the defogger switch turns on the heater unit fan.
  My fuse panel has all separate runs and can handle 100 amps . Another fuse panel will handle the ignition switched circuits and relays.
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

With that kind of current load, I would ditch the ammeter.  If you really really want an ammeter, go for one with an external shunt at the battery.  This is common in marine applications.

[dakazman]

  I’ll have to play around with it a little more . Meanwhile I found a plug and play connectors that may work.

  Dakazman

[TurboFource]

Is that OEM 

[dakazman]

 
   I think the new GM electric cars are exactly like this . Nothing like coffee and toasted bagel on the way to work.
Dakazman

[TurboFource]

I have seen a pickup truck with a small home A/C window unit in the rear sliding window with a power inverter to run it…….

[dakazman]

  They work well, during the hurricane my friend lost his generator so I lent him my 2000 watt ,4000 watt peak power inverter which powered his fridge, TV and a few light off their car. Its amazing what they do for their size . Necessity is the mother of invention.
https://www.google.com/search?sa=X&rlz=1C1AVNG_enUS962US967&sxsrf=ALiCzsammEjLJuoxM4nGZ7to4LNUDfWObg:1665781799407&q=How+do+I+use+an+inverter+in+my+car%3F&ved=2ahUKEwjY57Tj0OD6AhUytTEKHff0D6MQzmd6BAgdEAU&biw=1511&bih=736&dpr=0.9#kpvalbx=_TtBJY8uwJezIwbkPs62HwAI_50

Dakazman

[dakazman]

  Well then even with tons of interruptions I managed to get all the grounds and original mfg’s wires reconnected. Placement of the ballast resister is either in the plenum to cabin or at the modified FLV fan.
  I temporarily soldered in the connectors to see if it has adequate cooling???
It helps when you solder connections you have seven hands.

  Now that I’m left with only the extension on most of the turn indicators I’ll be installing the dash to hookup the steering column and db10 .
Oops and soldering in 5 relays on the panel
 I have a Hot battery bus , switched bus’s off the ign switch with room for extras .
Dakazman

[dakazman]

  I came up with a temporary modification to the amp gauge connectors. The gauge terminals had a nice pilot hole in them , 💡 drill and place a bolt for the terminal ends .  I can call that job done and move on and lower the panel in place after I extend the hazard and turn leads.
 Then add the db10 and steering. 😁
  Dakazman