1970 s2 0453R Reassembly

[Kendo]

Hmm, my right front headlight bucket was bashed in. I'd thought it was to fit with the fan. But the car also had a major front end crash before my time, and goa whole front clip grafted on. So maybe it was hidden damage from that.

[dakazman]

Mine was also bashed in , but g the he fan fit perfectly after I repaired the assembly.  No accident damage on they side.
Dakazman

[dakazman]

Mine was also bashed in at first, but the fan fit perfectly after I repaired the assembly.  No accident damage on that side.
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

Yup, standard for the RH bucket to be "dented" at the factory to provide clearance.

[dakazman]

  Progressed a little more today, new aluminum radiator and better fan assembly. Removed about 70 lbs and installed about 20. I was shock when I picked it up with my left hand a routed it in place. I repaired my headlight assembly and had plenty of room to install both the original and this lighter unit. I’ll check the operation and see how this fan performs.
  The other half of this assembly ,dual fan, will be used on the condenser in the right fuel tank area.

  Wiring loom started and I fabricated 4 brackets to mount in front of the bonnet lip on body side. My bullet connectors are now in NY and I’ll be getting resupplied. 😃

Dakazman

[dakazman]

  Making some more progress with some hidden hanger brackets installed carting the loom . All undone with one screw on each of 4 brackets.
 Replaced the original fuse holder with a simple cb panel. Adding another panel for upgrades soon.
   Using the fan switch for the A/C cabin fan with a fan control on the ac panel out of site.
 Then using either the fog switch or an additional switch where the heater valve was , still a push pull controlled by a relay. Instrument light led dimmer locating near light switch but still unsure of the city lights switch. Door mood control dimmer to be determined LOL 😂 TBD … I worked on commercial aircraft with parts of the maintenance manual that from factory TBD .

Dakazman
 
   

[TurboFource]

Looking good!

[BDA]

Nice work, D’man! 

[dakazman]

  Dimmable LED daisy chain completed and tested. They also fit nicely in the caution lenses with the help of an O-ring.
Dakazman
 

[dakazman]

  Led lights need a little diffuser and correct placement in the gauges, I’ll work on it a bit later. See pic.
   
   Finding a new home for the voltage regulator and start solenoid, along with the coil. Then I’ll hide this mess of wires.
   On another front, I finally repaired the leaks is my ac gauge and myel Camino is holding vacuum.
Dakazman

[dakazman]

  Made a new home off the fender well for these items, tail light harness is now up and over wheel well between body and engine compartment. 😃 still debating with myself on location and if I should make a cover . These are some of the old components but needed to run the wires .
 Battery and battery location I’ll copy pfreen’s mod, if I can find it again . It’s nice to be coming down to the finish line. Still I have lots of details to iron out and the final job of adding in my windscreen.
Dakazman

 

[dakazman]

  Just another day, completed my bracket for the voltage reg/coil/ start relay. Also ran a ground buss bar, and mounted on frame. Fabricating a ground gang for a 3 stud bar.
    I probably don’t need the voltage regulator now that the alternator all ready has one, having the additional protection can’t hurt.
   The start relay I’ll cover on a separate thread with the proper way to mount and why and terminal connection nomenclature . C1/C2/1W/2W is how the relay is labeled not C1/C2/W1/W2.
Dakazman

[Kendo]

DK, if you have two voltage regulators, watch out for one interfering with the other. A regulator can need some headroom to set its voltage. So the first in-line could starve the second of the juice it needs to regulate. If they are trying to set the same voltage.

[SilverBeast]

Won't the regulator in the alternator regulate to 12V nish (or maybe even control the voltage so it charges the battery).

I believe the one behind the dash (the "voltage stabiliser") is to give a relatively clean 10V supply to (some of?) the instruments.  If you are using the standard instruments (with highly polished chrome rings of course) you will still need this. 

[jbcollier]

The voltage regulator controls power to the rotor's field coil.  If you have an alternator with a built in regulator then you do not need an external voltage regulator, and, there is no where to hook it up.