1970 s2 0453R Reassembly

[dakazman]

  821 update:
  4 pieces , flat metal band followed by a wavy ring and a top and bottom ring. Those two rings showed the most contact . As it should , I assume.   No sign of any abrasions on pistons

   843 update:
   My head bolt problem is driving me crazy!  It’s a 7/16 /1.5 thread. See pictures
I ordered an m10 tap to clean up whatever is in the lower section of the chamber. See last pic.
I know there is no such thing as a 7/16 with 1.50 threads  , but with the Gauges  I purchased that’s what I’m getting.

  On another note my wife had some Rhine to sew up the bolsters for my seats. 😀 it’s up to me to make it all come together and glue and finesse them into shape.

[GavinT]

G'day Dave,

Here's a pic of one of my head bolts.

If you click on that little blue button, it takes you to the dark side; the dark mysterious Metric side.
Head bolts are M12 x 1.5.

Put a M12 x 1.5 nut on your bolt and all will be revealed.
Of course, that still doesn't mean you aren't crazy, but most of us get away without medication ;-)

[GavinT]

Another thought, Dave,

Got a pic of your oil ring?

Sometimes the middle wavy part can end up overlapping itself instead of 'butting up' during installation.
This is wild speculation on my part but could explain the stiffness.

[jbcollier]

+1, I'm with Gavin T.  I think it's oil control rings assembled incorrectly.

[dakazman]

  JB and Gavin ,
          You both are allowed to smack me upside my head if we should meet.
 
    I wasn’t to oil rings but  I made an assumption that the mid ring would be approximately the same as the top compression ring. I have , 0 , gap .  So my next question is should, or can, I trim ;or should I send them to back to Deves.
. Dakazman

[BDA]

There are ring filers that hold the ring and you turn a crank to spin an abrasive wheel. (eg. search Amazon for "piston ring filer"). I used to just used a small file.

Edit: I replaced "always" with "used to" because "always" sounded like I built lots of engines. I've built a few.

[jbcollier]

Make sure you check each individual ring in its bore.  You can adjust the gap with a file. Lock the file upright in a vise, place both ring ends against either side of the file and move it up and down.  GO SLOW.  Frequently check your work in the bore to make sure the ends are still square.

[dakazman]

  Thanks guys,
  I did check each top ring in each cylinder and  I should have checked the centers as well 😭
 I just now installed them in my new liners to see how they fit . They were even had a slight overlap. 

  I know how brittle they are and how fast they break . First I’ll file the old sets for practice  . I’ll keep you posted and I’ll GO Slow since a new set of gaskets won’t be here till Nov 3. -6 estimated .
Dakazman

[GavinT]

Good outcome, Dave.
Much better than taking the head off a piston on its first run.

[dakazman]

 Gavin,  Point taken , love the gif. I’m surprised you got it to fit the 1mg max  size.
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

Check the oil control rings as well.

[dakazman]

 Good point JB ,
 I don’t want to redo this again. I filed down 3 cylinders so far to the Minimum.008.
 I’ll shoot for .010-.012 . I’ll check the oil runs also.
Dakazman

[GavinT]

Dave,
I may have missed this detail, but are you using new liners?
Even if you are, it's good practice to check the ring gaps lower down in the bore where the pistons will be at their lowest point.

Here's the "Everything You Need to Know About Ring Gap!" page from Wiseco which covers a lot of ground.

http://blog.wiseco.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-ring-gap


Just kidding re the penguin, of course.
Reckon we've all been that penguin at one time or another; I certainly have. 

[dakazman]

  Thanks Gavin.
  That gif is one of the originals, but still funny. Yes , I believe everyone has had one.

   New, old , liners and pistons going in.  I received them packed in set form but when I just went to install the wrist pins found the center runs missing on all pistons sets 🤬

    Since the other blocks bore is bent, from it’s two blown piston that I pulled out of it. I never really turned it over while doing the tear down.  I’ll be looking for an 821 block.
 
   The 843,  the scored piston with melted over rings , has been replaced . My order for a ring set,       79mm , put on hold, till I determine the course of action on the head bolt threads.

  Gearbox, bell housing off and readying for backlash check.

 Seats, making some room in garage to glue the side bolsters in.
  Who said retirement is easy!!!

Dakazman
 

[dakazman]

    Spent the day working on the gearbox now that my spring scale and Prussian blue came in. 
At first I applied the blue to the gears and turned the primary gear to check wear . I had somewhat of a wear print but was not satisfied with the Prussian blue compound due to it being the non-drying application. 
  Secondary I tried again with a molybdenum base lube application. Even with it being dry it did what it was designed for and no wear was uncovered.
  Next I tried brake pad adhesive coating , once dry it worked well. Showing a nice pattern, not correct but readable.
  Loosened both nuts and checked backlash. At first I thought you needed six arms. With the dial indicator set on the teeth , I gained exactly what I needed to do and what and when to stop turning. Listening to the lash is important as your watching the dial indicator. So with the nuts loose and a big lash of ..040 you quickly learn how to even the differential in the case, and keep the 3-5 n turning rate, and the backlash lessening as the gears mate into each other. I managed to get it to the .005-010 range at .070.
  I am going to go shopping for some other type of gear marking application and will retest the wear pattern.