"soft" Restoration of 2933R (JPS#059)

[4129R]

I put a thin copper wire through the radiator matrix holes, and strapped it firmly to the radiator. I cannot see how the push fit ever lasted in place.

[tedtaylor]

MAJOR SET BACK.....
taking everyone's advice not to leave the acidic flush fluid remain in the system longer than necessary, i decided today that i would flush it out and fill with antifreeze.   Much to my chagrin, i found a curious puddle under the engine.   I feared and assumed it was the water pump.   I could not see weepage (combo seepage and weeping?) from above the crank pulley and wiped everything clean and dry.   The crank pulley kept dripping away.... I checked all over the back of the engine, looking at the freeze plugs, hose connections, everywhere......eventually with bright flashlight, while engine running, i could see the "weepage" coming from behind the water pump pulley, most likely the weep hole.    UGH!!!  !@#$%^&*

Not looking forward to it, but i suppose i should pull the engine.   While it is out, it will be easier to clean, paint, replace/install gaskets, etc.   I've never "pulled" the engine from a Europa.   Must the transaxle remain attached?   or is there enough room to disconnect and pull the engine away from transaxle toward the bulkhead to clear the clutch assembly??

[BDA]

I don't think you can take the motor out without also taking the tranny out. I would think that it would be easier to take the tranny out and then the motor.


If you can afford it, I would recommend getting a cassette water pump. Then, the next time you have to change the water pump (and hopefully you'll drive it enough to need to do it) you won't have to take the head off he motor to change it.

[Certified Lotus]

Ted, sorry to hear your bad news. I've taken two engines and transaxles out of two Europa's and both needed the transaxle taken out at the same time as the engine. Need to remove the axles first and then disconnect everything attached to the engine. Make sure you have an engine hoist that will go high enough.

I'm having my TC rebuilt to higher performance specs and I'm not putting a cartridge water pump in. Just rebuilding the water pump. Why you Ask? Well in a Europa you have to pull the engine anyway to change the water pump, so why would I spend all that money for a cartridge I can't change with the engine in place. Besides, from what I have read, the water pump should last at least 30,000 miles.

By the way, if your pulling the engine, might as well replace the clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing.

[brucelotus26r]

After working on mine I think it would not be to hard to drop the oil pan and pull the front cover out from underneath
with out pulling the engine.

[tedtaylor]

How much will you charge Bruce to do the job for me??

Glen, better think that through again....I think you can easily change the cartridge in situ from underneath.   Good point about clutch.

[Certified Lotus]

Well, I'm always willing to learn from others. I'll be interested in the process removing the front timing chain cover with the engine inplace. I'm sure it can be done, but just thinking about it already has my back in pain. The bigger issue (I think) is getting everything sealed properly putting everything back in.

I'll admit I'm known for "over doing it". I even pulled my Elan S4 engine just to replace the freeze plugs. Which buy the way you might want to check closely considering what you found in your water cooling system.

Here are some photos to help think this through.

[BDA]

I don't have a TC anymore so I could easily be ignorant of lots of things about them, but I am lead to understand that taking the front cover off the motor (or maybe it's putting it back on) requires taking the head off. Having just replaced the timing belt on my motor (and am not at all looking forward to the eventuality where I will have to adjust the valve lash - but that wouldn't be any different if I still had the TC), it seems to me that taking the head off is certainly not something to be done lightly and something to be avoided if possible.


Thirty thousand miles doesn't seem like a long life for a water pump. If I had to change it even every fifty thousand miles, I think I would appreciate the greater ease of using the cassette pump. It seems I've heard that they are not all created equal (that, too, is subject to my geezer memory) but I've never heard anything bad about the unit that Bean sells.


I also know that Certified Lotus is not alone in affirmatively eschewing the cassette pump so I am in no way making a judgement on that decision.


As I say, this is not something I have to concern myself with (I have bigger water pump fish to fry - I'll either have to rebuild my water pump or have another modified like the one I have when it's time to change mine). This is just a comment from the peanut gallery! 

[EuropaTC]

After working on mine I think it would not be to hard to drop the oil pan and pull the front cover out from underneath
with out pulling the engine.

Yes, that's how I changed mine, it is tight but quite practical.

I was all set to remove the engine until the local Lotus specialist advised me not to do so but to leave it in place. Apparently  they always replaced Europa pumps without removing the engine. Once the head and sump area away then you'll be surprised how much access you actually have for the front cover, it only has to slide forwards a touch to clear the pump,etc. I think I slid the cover upwards into the engine bay rather than dropping it down but memory is hazy on that point.

Brian

[Roger]

As designed the otter switch is a push fit only, no extra security. Sometimes it works OK, but many people have some other fastening.
MGBs share the design, and many have zip ties or w-h-y as extra precaution.

[Grumblebuns]

After working on mine I think it would not be to hard to drop the oil pan and pull the front cover out from underneath
with out pulling the engine.

Yes, that's how I changed mine, it is tight but quite practical.

I was all set to remove the engine until the local Lotus specialist advised me not to do so but to leave it in place. Apparently  they always replaced Europa pumps without removing the engine. Once the head and sump area away then you'll be surprised how much access you actually have for the front cover, it only has to slide forwards a touch to clear the pump,etc. I think I slid the cover upwards into the engine bay rather than dropping it down but memory is hazy on that point.

Brian

For me the biggest worry with installing the front cover is being careful not to dislodge the water pump assembly while laying on your back under the car (having a lift might make the job easier). If you work carefully, apparently it can be done per Brian's experience. I for one will be going with a Dave Bean cassette water pump when the  replacement motor goes into my TCS

[EuropaTC]

For me the biggest worry with installing the front cover is being careful not to dislodge the water pump assembly while laying on your back under the car (having a lift might make the job easier). If you work carefully, apparently it can be done per Brian's experience. I for one will be going with a Dave Bean cassette water pump when the  replacement motor goes into my TCS

I can almost certainly guarantee that I wasn't on my back under the car, no garage pit in those days and a tendency towards laziness...     

Once the luggage tray, head, carbs and exhaust system are out of the way you can sit on the block and look down on the front cover.  But I still can't recall for certain if it came out upwards or downwards, but I have remembered that it was the seal that had failed, not the pump impeller or bearing, both of which were fine.   Whereas on the Elan's pump which I replaced in 2010,  it was the bearing that had collapsed and making rusty noises. But it had been there for around 30 years, so I didn't complain too much !

[tedtaylor]

Just an update.....there is no update!   I'm been either very lazy (on these hot, humid lazy days of summer) or not very motivated.   I remember last year pushing hard to get my Elan Sprint done in time for LOG36.  There was a reason to get it done, but here, i've got no deadlines, so it's been sitting patiently at the back of the garage waiting for me to get back to work!
A note of optimism, the water pump leak has slowed or stopped altogether.   Perhaps flushing the system with the acid-wash caused the water pump seal to leak?  Now that antifreeze is in the system, it seems not to be an issue.   Time will tell.

The brake system as a whole is a monumental task, however if i break it down into sections, i should just chip away at each task, and i would have been done long time ago.    Need to rebuild 1) master cylinder, 2) front calipers, 3) rear wheel cylinders, 4) brake boosters, then 5) bleed system and hope for the best!

After that, it's just claybar buff and polish.    Oh, and tidying up the engine bay, degreasing, replacing cam cover gasket, block oil drain tube, etc.

Gee, i'm awfully comfortable sitting in my easy chair watching TV right now....

[Certified Lotus]

I'm with you Ted. It takes a major event to get motivated to finish the car. And the hot and humid weather we have been experiencing in the North East isn't helping........

Plus you have a couple of cars that always need tending to, so it's easy to get distracted!

[tedtaylor]

Well after a less than productive hot summer (and now an "Indian summer" is upon us), I went ahead and had the car exterior detailed.  It involved a compound/buffing/waxing job.  It was done by my Lotus buddy Leo of "Professional Obsessive Car Detailing" out of South Plainfield, NJ.   Here's a couple shots.   If this isn't motivation to finish the soft restoration efforts, I don't know what is!