TCS/Zetec/NG3 Conversion

[jbcollier]

It never really hit me until the body shop screwed up.  Faced with another 20K$cdn to put the body right, I realized I could have bought two (2) Elises for what I have into the Europa.  Most days, I don't care because I love the Europa but, some days...

Please be very careful when you are fitting the powertrain.  The transaxle has to be centred EXACTLY in the frame as it locates the rear suspension.

[andy harwood]

Which side of the engine mount bracket is attached to the engine mount?  Having the bracket in front gives a bit more room.  Are the mounts stock?  Or what you have been making up above?

Since the transaxle/engine only need to move forward a small amount for transaxle rear cover to clear the frame hoop, I tried putting the engine mounts in front of the frame mounts. It didn't want to fit due to the angle of the frame decreasing. I used a set of used mounts (Thanks Allan!),  took a end mill and removed rubber from the front side of mount, to accommodate the engine mounts. The bolt holes didn't line up, but I got the mounts at the correct height, and clamped them together. This gave enough clearance for the transaxle rear cover to clear frame hoop. Total amount assembly moved forwards is 5/8th inch.
Is this too far forward for the intended CV jointed axles? It appears the engine will be in about the same position as the TC engine, as the Zetec is a tad shorter block.

"Please be very careful when you are fitting the powertrain.  The transaxle has to be centred EXACTLY in the frame as it locates the rear suspension."

I have the transaxle center line centered, measuring to frame edge, both sides, from bell housing to rear of transaxle.
The photo shows some angle iron I have attached to the frame, and bolted to the alternator mounting hole in the bell housing.
My thinking is, with the rear transaxle mount, and the jig attached to the bell housing, I'll have the transaxle/bell housing in the correct position, so can attach the Zetec and make the engine mounts.
Thought I'd try to get some input before I welded the jig. So, I'm really open to suggestions and comments.

Second photo is the transaxle mounting bolts and bushings from Banks. The plates are on the transaxle. Bushings appear to be front suspension bushings?

[jbcollier]

On mine I made my own hoop and fit the "spacers" into the hoop:

http://s250.photobucket.com/user/jbcollier/media/Europa%20cable%20shifter/IMG_0594.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0

(photo bucket is a pop-up nightmare, sorry, but I don't want to break links in my old messages)

That brings the transaxle a bit further back.

Yup, the mounts are a-arm bushings.  Needless to say, you can "feel" the engine when it's running. Sweet diddly for flex under load though, which is nice.

John

[andy harwood]

Thanks for the input John.
I think moving the loop is the better option, I just didn't want to cut the frame if I didn't have to. Now that I have some solid transaxle mounting points to refer to, I'll investigate how much room I have to move the loop rearwards.

[BDA]

John, that's very similar to how I mounted my NG3. Mine didn't use the A-arm bushings, though.

Andy, from the picture, it looks like you'll be able to fit it with the 365 hoop. Richard seems to have set you up with a nice mount situation. I will say that it looks like an advantage to John and my setup is that you can take off the end cover but it might be difficult with the 365 hoop.

[andy harwood]

After looking and measuring, and speaking with Richard today, I've decided to leave the frame loop as is, and shift engine/tranny forward a bit.
Hoping I don't regret it in the future.

[LotusJoe]

Andy,
When I installed the Zetec with the new NG box I first assembled the TC engine with the original 365 gearbox and put it into the chassis. Then I marked the location of the engine and tranny flange on the frame. I then put the Zetec with the NG box in the chassis and placed it in exactly the same location using that reference point or plain where the original engine was located. Then I centered the engine and leveled it in place. At that point I built new motor mounts from the engine to the stock mounts in the chassis. I then took Richard's mounting kit for the NG box and drilled new hole in the original rear hoop and welded them. I then modified the rear hoop to accept the NG box. 





The only modification I made to the chassis was a small notch on the right side to accommodate the alternator.



Here is the result when I test fitted the body on the chassis. Plenty of clearance.

[andy harwood]

Thanks for the photos and information Joe.
Cut a bit out of the hoop, and welded some 3/8ths flat back in this afternoon. Just roughly lining transaxle/engine up, *appears* to have hoop clearance & correct position.

[andy harwood]

Test fit of the VW Axle/CV joints.
Didn't have time to look closely, but here is a pic.

[andy harwood]

Thanks to information shared here, this is how I modified my frame loop. I notched it, then welded in 3/16th flat. Bent it in a bit on top. Thanks Joe & John. Transaxle output shafts are in original location.
Some observations on the test fit of the VW axles, CV joints, and stub axles.
As pictured, the transaxle flanges came from Banks, are 100 mm, and use a type 2 VW CV joint. The axles are from a VW beetle, and are type 1 CV joints (84mm). The stub axles are from a VW beetle, and are a type 1 CV joint. Stub axle spacers are VW, being ground to dimensions used by Trimandaran (sp?).
-Everything lines up nicely, and is about the same dimensions as Lotus.
-Type 2 CV joint will not allow axle circlip to be installed as race is too wide, about 2mm.
-Stub axle. From face of VW hub to end of axle is ~2". Measuring from backside of wheel, to inside of the center cap is 1.75". I have Rota wheels, have not measured stock Lotus rims.
Solutions - Inner CV joint race should be able to mill down 2mm, to allow clip to be installed. Empi makes a stub axle that is about 1/2" shorter overall, so that should take care of being able to install a center cap in the wheel. Also, this stub axle uses the type 2 CV joint.
Always open to suggestions!

[jbcollier]

That's just a mock up, right?  You've still to fit the rubber mount fittings.  Mine I set mostly to the rear and I braced them to the plate as well.

http://s250.photobucket.com/user/jbcollier/media/Europa%20cable%20shifter/IMG_0595.jpg.html

(lots of pop ups, sorry, but I don't want to break my old message links)

[andy harwood]

Thanks for the input John.
Yes, transaxle mount just mocked up.
I'm making mounts to attach to the sides of transaxle.
My thinking now is to start mocking up the shifter cables/attachment - so I don't have to back track with the transaxle mounts.
What transaxle do you have? The NG3 I bought from Banks appears to shift as yours. The other cable shifter conversions I've found on the web appear to shift from the rear, like the 365 transaxle. The only other documentation is in the following link -
https://www.prevanders.net/europa/ng3.html
Could you share some of how you set up the mechanism?

[SwiftDB4]

Have you thought of retaining the original rod shifter? I kept the original tree, just moved it forward to clear Zetec. Ran rod down left side of engine with a kink welded in it. Used Banks side shifter to left side on the NG3. Works well with very little play.

[jbcollier]

Mine is an early 395 -- nice 3.4x first gear, not so nice 0.93 5th -- which looks similar but is smaller, than an NG-3.

Here are some photo links to what I did for the cable shifter:

http://s250.photobucket.com/user/jbcollier/library/Europa%20cable%20shifter?sort=2&page=1

Reverse lock out:

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-nc9PsWm/A

Video in action:

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-4qr8BZx/A

Finished shifter:

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-SKn8D9L/A

I used a cable shifter out of a Toyota Corolla which I stripped and manufactured my own mounts.  I made a simple pivot and links using a 2:1 ratio for the selector (in and out) and straight on for the shifter (back and forth).  Had custom shift cables made up at a big rig shop.

Mounting to the frame inside the "Y":

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-zTW9WSt/A

Routing and bracket, shifter:

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-TqVnpGg/A
https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-cz6kRRX/A

... rail selector:

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-65jJJg7/A
https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-2TVMXbB/A

Used hose swivel fittings at the shifter:

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-PBZg2MS/A

Required a wee bit of head scratching but was all well within my albeit limited mental capabilities.  Works really, really well: shifts like a dream and no problem finding and selecting all the gears.

[andy harwood]

"all well within my albeit limited mental capabilities"
Somehow, I have this mental picture of you, blindfolded, one hand tied behind your back - just to make it sporting - fabricating this shifter mechanism from scratch.
Thanks John for the information and pictures. Off to start looking, thinking, and measuring.

"Have you thought of retaining the original rod shifter?"
The cable shifter seemed appealing when I started think about this conversion, so that is what I've been focusing on.