Engine oil

[jbcollier]

New cheapish oil and a NEW filter, the good lord only knows what is in the current one.  Also remove the cam cover and pour fresh oil on the cams and cam chain -- while in there, check your chain tension.  Fire it up, get it up to temperature (oil hot, not just coolant) and then drain the oil and replace the filter again.  Use medium quality oil this time.  If everything runs well so there is no need for the engine to be opened up then change the oil and filter again in a 100 miles or so.  Use the good stuff this time.  Now you can do regular oil changes from there on in.

I followed this procedure except I use good oil every time, paranoid I guess.

[Steve_Lindford]

Thanks - that sounds like the way to go...

Steve

[TheKid#9]

Hey Everyone,

I know this is an old post, but I used to use 20w-50 Castrol, but I have recently made the switch to 0w-40 full synthetic in my Europa and Elan. I always check my dip stick before driving anyways and yes, they are old cars, so they leaked prior to the switch to 0w-40.

Are any of you running 0w-40? With how new oil technology is my dad and I didn't think it would be an issue at all.

[EuropaTC]

Yes, been running it for a couple of years now. I ran Mobil 1 full synthetic for years despite dire warnings that a twin cam would leak like a sieve, it didn't and oil consumption was no different. IIRC it was 10/50 but these days the most easily available viscosities are 0/40 & that's what I run now.

No noticeable change in hot oil pressures on either engine and both have plenty of miles on them.

Brian

[Clifton]

Engine oil. Without saying XX is the best. This guy tests nearly all of them.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

Transmission, MOTORCRAFT XT-M5-QS I learned about it from Miata guys. I use this miracle lube in transmission and transaxles. If you thought you had bad syncros. a thousand miles of this will change that. http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php?topic=27325.30

[Pfreen]

I run Valvoline VR1 racing oil, 20w -50. 
In the transmission, I run Swepco 210 80w/140.
I also add this additive to the transmission recommended on a Renault site.  You can find it on Amazon.
 https://www.franzose.de/en/Renault/R16/Motor-Getriebeoele/ANR20504/
This website has a lot of Renault parts.
I run the heavier gear oil because it is hot in Florida, and since I put in an aluminum flywheel and a more radical cam, I would get transmission gear slap at no load idle.  This eliminated the problem, and it shifts great once warm.

[jbcollier]

With a twin cam, the cam and followers run in an oil bath so there isn't much of an issue with oils.  Keep the last number higher than 30 for the sake of hot oil pressure.  Early twin cams with rope rear main seals may leak more with synthetic oils.

On a Renault, the cam and followers are "splash lubricated" by oil draining back from the valve gear.  Many older engines are like this and they appreciate higher additive levels than generally available today.  There are a number of oils out there formulated for older "flat-tappet" engines.  Looks at the specs but remember there is also too much of a good thing.  Look for "zinc" levels above 1000ppm.  1200 to 1800 is great.  But, more can be a problem.  Some racing oils have more but they are based on the fact racing engines get regularly stripped, and overhauled.

Many have used fully synthetic Mobil 1 for decades.  It was only available in 20w50 to start.  Now it is available in a wide range of viscosities.  Due to stringent emissions equipment requirements, additives have been removed.  The 10w50 is ok additive-wise but some of the "thinner" weights have lower levels.  Check the Mobile 1 site for the current additive levels.  Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50 is pretty much the old Mobil 1 with great additive package.

[Rosco5000]

I have been using the Lucas "Hot Rodaro fd" products for my Elan+2 and Twin Cam Europa.  It has been good so far and is designed for flat tappet vehicles.  They list all their zinc values on their website. https://lucasoil.com/pdf/Zinc_Values_MotorcycleOil.pdf 

As for transaxles I was having problems with the GL-5 stuff with added friction modifier.  I accidentally bought Redline oil with the friction modifier and had issues with 3rd gear.  Now I changed back to MT85 (their 70W90 gear oil equivalent) and have no problems. 

That's my $0.02.
Cheers,
Ross