Restoration of 2358R

[Certified Lotus]

Dakazman, I used 1/4” closed cell foam. Covered exactly what I took off the chassis. Plus the back part was triple thickness where the interior center hump goes up.

I used the same foam on my Elan S1 when I restored it and it works great. No squeaks!

I’ve got a few more items to finalize before I lower the body on the chassis, but I’m close to that stage. Want to get the shift tube adjusted properly before the body goes on and a couple of small items.

[Stuleslie]

Can I put my penny worth in, please check you have cut enough space in the foam around the two bolt holes in front of the gear lever. The bolt bobbins in the body should make contact with the chassis to allow the body to sit level. I forgot to do this and it took me ages to cut the felt, in my case, as I could not easily remove the body once I lowered it. Just say-in 
Stuart

[Certified Lotus]

Excellent comment Stuleslie! I will go back and determine how much to cut off. Now that you bring it up, I remember looking at the photo of the OEM install of the horse hair padding wondering why the opening was so large in that area. Now I know. Thanks!

[Certified Lotus]

Larry came over yesterday to work with me on getting the shift linkage set up properly. I had read all kinds of stories about how finicky the shift tube adjustment can be and it proved to be correct. I knew that it would take two people to get it all adjusted correctly as someone needed to be at the rear of the transaxle confirming the shifting motion into all the gears and double checking full engagement.

If you have been following my posts you will know that I elected to use RD Enterprises "new" shift linkage u-joint for my 352 transaxle as the OEM version is no longer available.   Using this u-joint means the suggested setup in the shop manual is no longer valid.  The centerline distance from the pivot bush to helm joint is no longer 2 3/4 inches but almost 4 inches.  And the two locking nuts that come with the shift u-joint can't be used as you need to tighten the threaded part of the linkage all the way against the shift tube to achieve the right gear selection adjustment. We adjusted, assembled, disassembled and reassembled the entire shifter mechanism many times before coming to the correct adjustments on every part. The one last disassembly so we could clean all the threads for Loctite 35 to be added. 

All went well until we started trying the drill holes in the linkage for roll pins.  The Lovejoy shift linkage is made of hardened steel and using either cobalt or titanium drill bits didn't make a dent.   I really want to finalize this assembly before attaching the body to the chassis so I need to figure out how to drill a hole through this hardened steel without disassembling the entire shifter tube assembly. 

 

[surfguitar58]

Cert, are you saying you used all the thread on both sides of the rdent u-joint? That is actually good news to me since I was hoping there would be enough adjustment length to make up the difference in rear link length between the 352 and 365 rear links since I am planning to replace my 352 4-speed with a 365 5-speed and I can’t find the required longer rear link.

I always thought drilling the roll pin hole in place would be awkward at best. Did you end up disassembling one last time and drilling the marked locations on a drill press?
Tom

[Certified Lotus]

I did use all the thread. Although you just mentioned something I was not aware of. There are two different size rear shift tubes? One is longer? By how much?

I’m hoping not to disassemble the shift tubes to put on the drill press as I have put loctite on the threads. I’m wondering if I can remove the entire tube with the joint intact....

[Certified Lotus]

The other day when Larry was over at my garage to help me we talked about how many hours it would take to complete the Europa at this stage and have it running.  Larry thought 150 hours more and I said 100 hours to get it on the road but probably another 25+ hours of adjustments and fine tuning. Tick tock, the clock is running.

Filled the transaxle with gear oil recommended for this particular 352 gear box (Swepco 210).

Installed the ventilation fan with foam surround to seal the opening, riveted the radiator screen in place, bolted the aluminum radiator in place, installed the bonnet prop rod, bolted in the spare tire mount and the windshield wiper fluid bag aluminum bracket. I kept referencing my disassembly photos for details (you never take enough photos for reference).

It was in the high 80's today and the humidity seemed the same. Hot and sweaty day in the garage. But good progress.

My hardened drill bits came this afternoon from Macmaster Carr.  Tomorrow will try and drill the hardened steel u-joint threaded bolts to insert roll pins. Hopefully it goes ok......

[jbcollier]

What are you drilling? Hardened steel u-joint threaded bolts? Just curious.

[Certified Lotus]

What are you drilling? Hardened steel u-joint threaded bolts? Just curious.

Post #888 “All went well until we started trying the drill holes in the linkage for roll pins.  The Lovejoy shift linkage is made of hardened steel and using either cobalt or titanium drill bits didn't make a dent.   I really want to finalize this assembly before attaching the body to the chassis so I need to figure out how to drill a hole through this hardened steel without disassembling the entire shifter tube assembly.”

[jbcollier]

Use an acteqyne torch and anneal where you want to drill.

[surfguitar58]

I did use all the thread. Although you just mentioned something I was not aware of. There are two different size rear shift tubes? One is longer? By how much?

Yes, the rear link for the 365 is longer than the one for the 352. (See parts list below.) I would love to know the length difference also. Anyone?

Tom

[Certified Lotus]

Use an acteqyne torch and anneal where you want to drill.

Thanks JB. I’m assuming when I anneal the metal in place the loctite 35 is no longer effective?

[Certified Lotus]

Surfguitar58, now that have shown the parts manual on the rear link I dimly remember there are several rear links. It all came back to me now. But I think it’s due to the diameter of the shift rod in the transaxle. The early 352 had a smaller diameter shift rod and the later transaxles had a larger diameter. Not sure about the 365. I don’t know if the length of the rear link is impacted, just the size of the bore in the ujoint for the diameter of the rod.

[surfguitar58]

Surfguitar58, now that have shown the parts manual on the rear link I dimly remember there are several rear links. It all came back to me now. But I think it’s due to the diameter of the shift rod in the transaxle. The early 352 had a smaller diameter shift rod and the later transaxles had a larger diameter. Not sure about the 365. I don’t know if the length of the rear link is impacted, just the size of the bore in the ujoint for the diameter of the rod.

I'm pretty sure the 365 link is longer. I have a 352 in the car and a 365 in a box. I will try to measure the the length difference from the bell flange to the cross pin on the shift rod in the near future and report back.

t

[jbcollier]

Yup, the heat required to anneal metal will release any nearby locking compound.