Restoration of 2358R

[Certified Lotus]

Definitely nothing machined off these drums. I’ll need to find a garage that still balances them and has a drum lathe. Thanks for the insight JB!

[jbcollier]

The last set of drums I bought were pretty bad.  The casting around the machined surface was pronouncedly elliptical.  I mounted the drums, one at a time, to a spare hub and then set them up on centres.  I ground off about a pound from the heavy spot.  So much that I thought I must have done it wrong.  Installed them and my nagging rear wheel balance issue was gone.  YMMV

[Certified Lotus]

Installed the right side rear drum brakes and all associated fittings. Everything went together as it should.  Had to locate some retaining clips for the e-brake cable to keep it in place on the chassis bracket. Somehow I misplaced the OEM versions (I'm sure I will find it in some bag in a box it shouldn't be in).

The next major project is making & running all the brake lines.  Started with the front disk brakes as I needed to create the line that connects the front calipers to the flex line. It's got some weird bends which I knew would be interesting to replicate. Got my work bench set-up in my woodworking shop (another part of the house) for making brake lines with the proper flairs.  Years ago I invested in a brake line flair tool that was $$$ and I have never regretted it.

[Certified Lotus]

Big Easter brunch at my house today. My wife does a spectacular job of decorating, cooking and is the ultimate hostess.  I serve drinks and keep the conversation active (all I'm good for).

Once company left I sneaked in a an hour or so of Europa work. More brake line construction.

Here is my major question......I am eliminating the brake boosters and have already purchased the proper master cylinder for the removal of the boosters. I'm also installing a brake proportioning valve at the rear of the car (for future disc brake install when Milo completes).  The OEM brake line install to the rear of the chassis went under the chassis and was exposed to the road elements. There were three brake lines due to the need of routing to the boosters and having a return.  With the elimination of the boosters I only need to run one brake line to the rear of the chassis. Any reason I can't do this inside of the chassis to eliminate the exposure of the brake line to the elements and road debris ?

[BDA]

The brake pipes under the frame concerned me too so I routed them down to side if the backbone thinking there was room given the padding between the body and frame. I don't recommend this. I think a better solution is to run the lines under the backbone as normal but add a sheet of aluminum to cover the area under the backbone. You can use nut-sert type threaded inserts to attach it if you're not comfortable using tape. There is plenty of room for the pipes because the body hangs lower than the frame.

[GavinT]

I also routed mine down the side of the backbone. I just made up some 'L' shaped clips and used the existing screw holes.
Mine is a Type 54 with a single line master cylinder and this seemed the obvious and easiest way to do it.

Why wouldn't you recommend this, BDA?

I had thought of putting it inside the chassis as that would completely protect it.
The disadvantage of that is visibility. If a drain hole becomes clogged and you end up with some standing water/moisture, it could corrode through and you'd never know about it.

That's what commonly happens to the line that goes around that sharp bend where the legs of the 'Y' meet - the padding absorbs water and holds it against the brake line.

[BDA]

Why wouldn't you recommend this, BDA?

I used regular cushioned cable clamps and the fit between the body and the frame seemed snugger than I'd prefer. I haven't had any problems from it but I wished I had done it the way I described. Your point about access is taken, too. If something should happen to a pipe along the backbone (admittedly highly unlikely) your access to the pipe would be very difficult.

[surfguitar58]

With the elimination of the boosters I only need to run one brake line to the rear of the chassis. Any reason I can't do this inside of the chassis to eliminate the exposure of the brake line to the elements and road debris ?

Why not? I've been pondering moving the brake warning light diff switch right up next to the MC and 1 line back to the rears also. The boosters necessitated a snakes wedding of bundy pipes totally unnecessary if they are removed.
t

[EuropaTC]

I only need to run one brake line to the rear of the chassis. Any reason I can't do this inside of the chassis to eliminate the exposure of the brake line to the elements and road debris ?

My TC has been like that all the time I've owned it, there's even a neat little hole in the front crossmember for a rubber grommet and the line to pass through, located just above the closing plate.

Having said that, there are advantages to fitting it underneath because it's easier to replace should you ever need to do so. Threading a length from front to rear inside the central chassis is a fiddle with the body in place and you end up making one flare in situ. Securing the pipe at intervals is also easier outside the chassis so that reduces the chances of vibration & cracking.

If you are using cunifer (or "Kunifer" depending on who's selling it) then corrosion isn't going to be an issue and in practice the central chassis is well away from road spray so doesn't get as rusty as elsewhere. In fact the only reason I didn't run mine underneath the backbone was because it was neater to use the existing holes and leave it inside. The Elan has the rear pipe running externally under the backbone, a cunifer line fitted in '81 IIRC and never touched since !

Brian

[GavinT]

In Oz, copper nickel (cunifer) brake line is illegal. This ruling may be left over from the old days when when straight copper line was common.
The regulations are a bit contradictory because they say you must use steel and yet decent quality copper nickel stuff meets the standard they’re talking about.
Gaaa . . .

Given Oz doesn't get much snow (and the consequent salt on the roads), I suspect the corrosion issue wasn't seen as much of a problem.

The powers that be only legalised braided hoses not all that long ago and it’s still limited to exclude the DIY varieties.

[jbcollier]

Brake lines made of straight copper are not very fatigue resistant.  Given the high pressures involved, it doesn't take much to have a line burst.  AFAIK, copper brake lines are illegal everywhere.

[EuropaTC]

Copper is still legal in the UK although the material doesn't have a fatigue limit and hence vibration will cause work hardening & fatigue failure eventually.  If it is fully supported it will work but the difficulty is in determining what is "fully supported". I remember reading of failures on lorry hubs where the constant vibration/high mileages caused failures and for that reason alone it should be viewed with caution.

Kunifer is a different material and even though it's still a copper alloy it doesn't have the same problems.  I'm actually surprised we still allow steel lines on cars when corroded lines are a known failure on MoT tests.

[4129R]

AFAIK, copper brake lines are illegal everywhere.

So what coils of tubing are they selling with all the brake pipe ends, that look like they are copper?

I have used that copper coloured tube everywhere.

[Bainford]

AFAIK, copper brake lines are illegal everywhere.

So what coils of tubing are they selling with all the brake pipe ends, that look like they are copper?

I have used that copper coloured tube everywhere.

Cunifer (or copper nickel, or cupro nickel, depending on where you are) has an appearance similar to copper, though slightly less 'red'. At a glance, it looks like copper, but as mentioned is a much better material. It is corrosion resistant, burst resistant, fatigue resistant, and much easier to work with than steel. In fact, it is such a good material that all high pressure (hydraulic and pneumatic) pipes on most of the world's 'cost is no object' navy submarines are copper/nickel. And they are working at much higher pressures and in much more extreme environments then the average automobile, and a single failure can mean the loss of 100 souls and a multi-billion dollar submarine, so only the best available is used. It's great stuff, and as Brian mentioned, steel brake lines should be outlawed as long as copper/nickel is around.

[Certified Lotus]

See the label on the tubing box. It’s all I use for my rebuilds.