Author Topic: Restoration of 2358R  (Read 185287 times)

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Offline surfguitar58

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Re: Restoration of 2358R
« Reply #900 on: Thursday,July 04, 2019, 07:35:44 AM »
Use an acteqyne torch and anneal where you want to drill.

Are the threaded studs in the rdent u-joints brazed into the Lovejoy part? Annealing happens at 500 to 1400 deg F, and brazing melts at 850 deg F.

t
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Offline Certified Lotus

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Re: Restoration of 2358R
« Reply #901 on: Thursday,July 04, 2019, 10:04:40 AM »
Yes they are brazed on. I was just wondering about the temp range. I’m going to try and drill the hole with the hardened bits I have.

Offline surfguitar58

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Re: Restoration of 2358R
« Reply #902 on: Thursday,July 04, 2019, 10:24:28 AM »
It would be relatively easy to peck through the hardened stud with it clamped in a vice on a drill press or milling machine. Drilling the cross hole in situ with a hand drill sounds awkward at best. I can picture some kind of drill guide that would at least keep the bit straight and on target.

Sorry if I sound like I am nit picking your fine work Glen, but I am facing this job myself shortly and this part keeps me awake nights.

Tom
"A designer knows he has achieved perfection not when there is nothing left to add, but when there is nothing left to take away."
Antoine de Saint-Exupery

Offline BDA

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Re: Restoration of 2358R
« Reply #903 on: Thursday,July 04, 2019, 10:26:13 AM »
I wonder if your u-joint isn't case hardened rather than all the way through. Maybe you can grind a small flat to give you a place to drill a hole. You're going to want to drill on a flat anyway.

Offline Certified Lotus

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Re: Restoration of 2358R
« Reply #904 on: Thursday,July 04, 2019, 03:18:07 PM »
I wonder if your u-joint isn't case hardened rather than all the way through. Maybe you can grind a small flat to give you a place to drill a hole. You're going to want to drill on a flat anyway.

Had not thought of that BDA. Will be trying to drill in situ tomorrow. Will see what happens......
« Last Edit: Thursday,July 04, 2019, 03:34:17 PM by Certified Lotus »

Offline Certified Lotus

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Re: Restoration of 2358R
« Reply #905 on: Thursday,July 04, 2019, 03:33:22 PM »
All it takes is putting in the hours each day.  Today (hot and humid again) was spent doing the following:

Installed the gear reduction starter. That was easy. Two bolts and lock washers. When I went to install the lower bell housing plate found out that only one threaded bolt hole lined up. Mmmmmm, don't remember that. Need to do some research.

Fabricated and installed the right side rear brake line.  I modified the location of these brake lines to be inside the chassis. Added tie downs to make sure they don't vibrate against the chassis.

Installed the OEM windshield wiper fluid bag and new hose.

The dash wiring and instrument install was next on my list.  It was too hot in the garage so I moved everything down to my wood working shop which is in my basement and very cool (as in temperature).

Set everything up and started on the new fiberglass instrument binnacle for the tach, speedo and function display lights (The OEM binnacle was warped from heat).  This required drilling of a number of holes to prep for install. Made a Loews run as I didn't have 6 x 1/2 stainless steel screws in stock. Need those to screw the binnacle to the back of the dash. 

« Last Edit: Thursday,July 04, 2019, 03:36:28 PM by Certified Lotus »

Offline Certified Lotus

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Re: Restoration of 2358R
« Reply #906 on: Friday,July 05, 2019, 02:29:06 AM »
“Sorry if I sound like I am nit picking your fine work Glen, but I am facing this job myself shortly and this part keeps me awake nights. Tom”

No problem Tom. I like everyone looking over my shoulder and providing input. Always good to have several ideas.

I am going to try and drill the roll pin hole with everything in Situ. If that doesn’t work I’ll have to take the entire shift tube out to drill on the drill press.

Offline Certified Lotus

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Re: Restoration of 2358R
« Reply #907 on: Friday,July 05, 2019, 04:40:57 PM »
Finished the dash today. Lots of little details to attend to. Drilling screw holes for all the switches, routering the opening for the emergency flasher switch that wasn't large enough (after checking the factory version), drilling a hole that wasn't large enough for a warning light. Drilling all the screw holes for the "glove box".   Always worried about damaging the veneer so I was super careful. Once I get the various dash attachment brackets bolted in the interior of the body, the dash is ready for install.




Offline BDA

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Re: Restoration of 2358R
« Reply #908 on: Friday,July 05, 2019, 04:58:28 PM »
Looking good!  :beerchug:

Offline Certified Lotus

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Re: Restoration of 2358R
« Reply #909 on: Saturday,July 06, 2019, 05:24:11 PM »
The advantage of time and input from others is you get to think about the how to solve problems versus rushing into it.

The issue of drilling hardened steel and installing roll pins in my shift tubes got me thinking over the last couple of days of the best way to accomplish the drilling and not change any of the dimensions of the length or adjustment of the tubes.  Last night it came to me just as I was falling asleep.  Just unbolt the shifter lever from the chassis, unbolt the u-joint pivot mid-point and take the roll pin out of the transaxle shift rod then remove the entire shifty tube mechanism in its entirety from the rear of the chassis. Carry it down to my basement shop and install in the drill press vise, clamp down and drill away.

Chris came over early this morning to help and it worked to perfection.  Using a drill press was a must and a 1/8 inch carbon steel bit made it all very easy.  No pilot holes, just drill the 1/8 hole for the roll pin size.

Re-install, bolt everything back the way it was and re-install the rear shift rod roll pin. Everything worked out fine.

Also installed the new hose for the windshield wiper sprayers while the dash was still out.

We took a break for lunch and then tackled lowering the body onto the chassis.  A bit of minor adjustments and line up of the body to the chassis, making sure the oil pressure line, speedo cable and handbrake cable were routed in the right holes while lowering the body. It all worked out fine and all the body to chassis holes lines up perfectly. I did remember to cut away some extra padding around the top of the chassis near the center tunnel.

Installed 6 sets of chassis bolts to make sure everything lined up. Went to install the seat belt receiver bolts and realized the aluminum was corroded so I stopped to wrap the mechanisms in plastic so I could media blast the metal and then paint it.  Will install tomorrow after the paint cures. Also need to electro plate the bolts as  the are special narrow head bolts and cant be easily replaced.

Had a beer and admired the work Chris and I did today. The Europa is finally back on its own wheels.  I'm thinking I'm on target to compete the car for LOG39.

 
« Last Edit: Saturday,July 06, 2019, 05:25:44 PM by Certified Lotus »

Offline dakazman

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Re: Restoration of 2358R
« Reply #910 on: Saturday,July 06, 2019, 06:50:21 PM »
 :trophy:
  Glen,
You should be so proud. Master Craftsmanship at its best.
Dave

Offline BDA

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Re: Restoration of 2358R
« Reply #911 on: Saturday,July 06, 2019, 06:55:01 PM »
Body. Meet frame.

That's a big step! Congratulations!  :beerchug:

She's really coming together now!

 :lotus:
« Last Edit: Saturday,July 06, 2019, 06:58:25 PM by BDA »

Offline 1970EuropaGuy

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Re: Restoration of 2358R
« Reply #912 on: Sunday,July 07, 2019, 09:03:34 AM »
That dash looks fantastic. Great job as usual.

Offline Certified Lotus

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Re: Restoration of 2358R
« Reply #913 on: Monday,July 08, 2019, 01:41:34 AM »
Thanks guys. Appreciate the complements.  It’s all coming together, just wish I had another full week of time for reassembly instead of blocks of time. But I’m confident I’ll get it done and on the road by the end of the month.

Offline Certified Lotus

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Re: Restoration of 2358R
« Reply #914 on: Monday,July 08, 2019, 05:33:14 AM »
As usual everything takes longer than it should.  I have been thinking about the airbox for the weber's for over a year and how to supply cool air to the weber's.  The original design had the airfilter just above the exhaust silencer and mounted to the back of the luggage box. Not ideal, although I did read the airflow through that area was very good at speed. Additionally, the OEM airbox is very narrow and doesn't supply enough air for higher HP engines.

I had a large capacity airbox left over from my Elan S1 build (Don't ask me how many airboxes I bought until I finally found one that was both large capacity and would fit under the bonnet) that I measured and figured it would be a perfect fir for the engine bay of the Europa. I have a large capacity airaid filter and mount that I'm in the midst of trying to determine the best cool air location before I mount it.

But back to the main point. I went to install the fiberglass airbox back plate on the weber's and when I realized the trumpets would not fit in the paper gaskets that go between the weber's and the back plate. I had forgotten that all the gaskets I've bought over the last several years don't have the right size trumpet holes and they need to be custom cut.  OK, no problem, just a slight delay. Then I get everything installed and lined up, the gaskets, the airbox and am installing the metal holds for the trumpets on the threaded stud when I realize there isn't enough thread for a lock washer and the 10mm nut. That's not going to work I thought. You need lock washers as you don't want a nut coming loose and sucked down one of the weber throats only to get through a valve and flying around inside a piston wall.  Scary thought!

Off to my local part store who luckily had 6mm threaded studs just the right length!  Gotta praise the owner of this Ace Hardware store in Princeton, he has a nut and bolt isle that has almost everything I need to rebuild my cars.

Back to my shop, install all new threaded studs and bolt on the airbox with SS lock washers and nuts.
« Last Edit: Monday,July 08, 2019, 05:35:10 AM by Certified Lotus »