Mounting the Banks Twin Link rear suspension

[Runningwild]

Getting ready to mount the Banks unit.  I'll let you know how it goes.  VERY tight fit!!!!!!!!

[jbcollier]

Yup, but you wouldn't want a sloppy fit.  It's a very well made piece of kit.

[BDA]

Very well made and very tight! Mine is an early kit with a much more substantial cross member (surely WAY over designed) and it is so tight that when I took it off to monkey with the tranny, I had a lot of trouble putting it back on. I filed an angle on the frame mounting 'ears' and put grease on it but in the end, I had to stand on it to get it installed! The funny thing is that I don't remember having that much trouble when I put it on the first time, but that may have been because the body was off and I had better access to it.

Please do let us know how it goes!

[Runningwild]

I'm going with the NG3 trans so I'll need to weld in new trans brackets. The original 336 U bracket will need to be cut out - right?  Should I remove the 336 bracket then fit the Banks unit?

[BDA]

I went from a 365 to an NG3 so I needed Richard's rear hoop. From the looks of what's in the S2 & TC parts manual, you will also need Richard's rear hoop. Thankfully, a really good fabricator helped me with mine. I don't remember all the steps or their order, but he cut out the rear hoop from the frame. When he welded the new hoop in, we checked cross measurements to make sure the frame was straight. At some point, he had to drill holes in the hoop to accept tube for the tranny mount bolts. That was probably done after the hoop was finally welded in the frame. I think I probably put in my engine and tranny (with the tranny mounts) in the frame and test fitted to see where those tube needed to be welded in the hoop. I do remember at one time during the fitting, it didn't look like the tranny mount would line up with the hoop and my buddy was thinking an adapter plate might be necessary (I was pretty bummed out about that prospect), but another look showed that it would work perfectly. That could have been something we eye-balled when the hoop wasn't welded in yet, I don't remember. I guess the point is to go a little slow and make sure everything measures up. My buddy was at one time the chief fabricator in a professional race team and he did a great job, but I really don't think it requires someone THAT skillful, but I do think whoever does it needs to know what they're doing.

I hope that helps a little...

[Runningwild]

Thanks. I'm getting the new copies of the mounts that were made originally in the John Pel kit.  When the time come I'll use our race car fabricator's skills for final assembly.  I'll see if I can find a picture of the mounts. 

[jbcollier]

The tranny is located side to side within very tight tolerances as the lower arms attach to the tranny itself.

Mount the old engine/transaxle unit in place first.  Next, fit the twin link crossmember.  Check and measure the powertrain's angle and height.  Then, and only then, cut out the old rear hoop.  Leaving the engine in place, fit the new transmission using stands to place the engine/transaxle unit at the same angle and height at the rear.

Take thick wall, chrome moly tubing of the same diameter as the original hoop.  Braze a frost plug in one end and fill the tube with DRY sand. Pack the sand in tightly and then braze another frost plug in the other end.  Heat the middle of the tube to a medium glow-red and SLOWLY bend the tube to the desired angle.  Allow the tube to slowly cool (as slowly as possible).

Remove the frost plugs.  Line up the hoop as needed and mark each end to fit each frame y piece.

Mind that the hoop clears your planned shift mech as well!

Tack the hoop in place and double check.  MIG or TIG as the budget allows.

I then drilled two holes in either side of the hoop, fitted and welded spacers and bolted the new spool type mounts in place.  Finally I built transaxle brackets that were welded to the spool mounts and the job was done.

When the smoke finally settled, the centreline of the transaxle was within a 1/4 mm of the centreline of the chassis.

[BDA]

I was going to take my luggage tray out and take some pictures of the rear mount for my NG3 but never got around to it. It turns out I have a few pictures that might be helpful. I've posted them here.

It sounded like John had to make his own rear hoop. I got mine from Richard and it could have been one that he had lying around so I don't know if he normally makes them available.

The first picture is from the rear. You can pretty much see hot it goes together. Note - you'll have to cut a piece from the bottom of the body (hopefully nicer than mine) for clearance to put it in and take it out.

The second picture is taken from the left side. You can see the left tranny mount and the shift linkage. Note here that my shift linkage is bent much more than it should be. My shift pattern is very narrow as a result - which if you're used to it, isn't bad.

The third picture is of the right side. You can see how the rear muffler mount attaches and the left hand tranny mount (and that I need to get better insulation for my exhaust pipe! There is another muffler mount that attaches at the bell housing.

[Runningwild]

I talked to the guys supplying the mounts for the NG3. I had pictures but I can't find them.  The rear 336 hoop has to be cut out completely. So mounting the twin link will be no problem. The new mount will need to be welded in and they supply shims.   We will see how things progress.  I'm still mounting the front suspension then the rear.    Thanks for all the pictures and info.     Tom

[Runningwild]

It's mounted. Not an easy job but it's in. Had to cut the rear hoop but that will be removed for the new brackets anyways.  Now on to the hubs and radius arms.

[BDA]

Looking good! I wouldn't be surprised if my rear hoop was a 336 hoop with the ears cut off.