Removing the Chassis from a 1967 Europa S1

[HARDYCA]

Hey folks,

 OK,  So I have a 1967 Europa S1 sitting in storage right now waiting to be worked on.  Of course the chassis is toast so I will need to remove it.  I have seen discussions on several sites weighing the pros and cons of taking an S1 type chassis out through the firewall vs out through the bottom. 

What I have NOT seen are any step by step guides or photos showing either process.

(They must be out there somewhere the internet has EVERYTHING.  Right?)

Does anyone out there know of such a collection of instructions, pictures or videos of either?

Thanks for the help.

Carl

[jbcollier]

First kick at the can:

(photograph EVERY step to aid when reassembling, package everything up separately and label as though someone else will have to reassemble it, note required replacement parts as you go along)

Remove front bonnet and rear power train/luggage cover

Remove all of the front suspension and brakes.

Remove brake master cylinder

Remove throttle, brake and clutch pedals

Remove steering rack, column, wheel.

Remove all of the rear suspension and brakes.

Remove the engine and transmission.

Remove shift linkage, coolant tubes and hand brake lever, pivot and cables.

Remove gas tank

Remove the bolts holding the Y sections to the rear inner fenders

Remove seats and interior trim.

Remove seat belts and brace from upper attachment point to the frame

Remove instruments, dash panel, console panel and glove box door.

Remove wiring harness

Drill out all the rivets holding the body to the frame:

- underneath the main section

- underneath the T section

- front luggage compartment to the T section

- inside of the seats to the main section

Remove screws/rivets holding the centre dash section to the frame

Cut out around the T section in the footwells and inner fenders

http://lotus-europa.com/europa24fps/0408f.jpg

http://lotus-europa.com/europa24fps/frame6a.JPG

Cut out the centre part of the dash (make it a large single piece as that is MUCH easier to glass back in)

http://lotus-europa.com/europa24fps/0648.jpg

http://lotus-europa.com/europa24fps/0662.jpg

Cut out the firewall/seat/tunnel section (make it a large single piece as that is MUCH easier to glass back in)

http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/lotuseuropa/p1090578.jpg

http://www.carbuildindex.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/105.jpg

http://lotus-europa.com/europa24fps/0649.jpg

http://lotus-europa.com/europa24fps/0656.jpg

http://lotus-europa.com/europa24fps/frame5a.JPG

Cut the tranny support loop to body glassing (not sure most Europas had this)

Pull the frame back, lift the rear up and then out

No one makes an S1 frame.  You have to convert an S2 frame to suit.  It is easiest to convert an early S2 frame.  Later S2 frames will also require you change the spacers locating the front suspension's rear upper a-arms.

Rough list of frame modifications required:

- bend flat the plate on the bottom of the T-section and spot weld to main section

- build box sections to cover front suspension rear lower a-arm pivot

- drill and weld 7/16NF nuts to the same pattern for the throttle pedal box

- remove and install on the new frame seat belt brace brackets on each y-section

- used frame? then replace the heater supply tubes period (sure, they test fine now!)

Order S2 coolant tubes

Installation is the reverse but rivet the body to the replacement frame before glassing everything back in.

What did I miss?  Please chime in and improve my first stab at things.

The wonderful thing about doing an S1 is that by the time you put the frame back in again, you feel that you are 80% done while that's actually where all the S2 and TC owners start !!!

[Serge]

I have taken my S1 chassis out through the rear (engine bay).

The other option is cutting the bottom, which is a bit easier, but your body will lose quite a bit of it's strength and it will flex. A friend of mine has done this. But have their percs.


There is a PDF somewhere to show you al the cutlines if you are removing the body through the rear. I can make a video of an empty S1 body to show you if necessary.


Kind regards,

Serge

[jbcollier]

Added photo links.  If anyone has better, please chime in!

[Grumblebuns]

John,

Your post should now be copied to the Technical section.

[HARDYCA]

 

Fantastic!  This is just want I needed to get started.

Thanks to all.

[jbcollier]

Not yet!  Let's let others chime in with their additions and links first.

[Serge]

I'll try to make a quick video with some instructions to add onto John's excellent post.

[HARDYCA]

Serge;

That would be great and much appreciated. 

BTW, did you also remove the chassis through the firewall? 

I know that it can also be removed through the bottom, which reportedly is  "quicker and easier" but that it weakens the body structure.  I've seen a few photos/videos of folks reassembling Lotii with a bottom chassis installation, but I've not seen anything about taking one out that way.  Do you know of anything like that on the WEB?

Anyway, thanks again for your help,

Carl

[Serge]

A friend of mine here in Belgium has taken the chassis out through the bottom of his S1. It is a bit easier, not so much the removal, but repairing the fiberglass when it's put back in. But the body will flex quite a bit with the bottom cut out. If you cut the firewall, the rigidity is uncompromised.

[SwiftDB4]

I've had my S1 body off the chassis 3 times now in 42 years. Always removed the frame out the bottom. Don't agree that the body flexes too much that way.  Never even had paint stress cracks with all the removals. Cutting the firewall probably compromises the rigidity as much as the floor.  On reinstallment first time I fiberglassed the central tunnel saddle all the way to the front T as well as reinforcing the existing saddle in the seat area. The T section was also fully glassed in as a saddle. The fiberglass section under the T was left off as on an S2, but I riveted aluminum sheet under the central saddle that can easily be removed. I retained the belly pan aft of the Y split. That can easily be cut and reattached at future frame offs.

[Serge]

I've made a video, and I'm editing it as we speak. Should be on here in the weekend.


Serge

[Serge]

The video is online and can be viewed here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGojk7Vff8M

[BDA]

Great video, Serge!! It would only have been better if you had shot it while you were taking your frame out, but you explained it well. That really is a big job! It makes me glad mine is a TCS!

[jbcollier]

Thanks Serge!

In this case a video is worth 10,000 words!

Yours had three bolts on either side of the frame into the seat area.  Mine had three rivets instead. Being as yours is such an early S1 and mine a late S1b perhaps it was a production line change.