I assume you're going to use the stainless steel braided rubber hose (the normal type for oil and fuel), you can make the hose yourself with common tools. i used snips to cut the hose and the ends are assembled on it with a vice and wrenches. You can get fancy vice jaw covers (very nice to have if you're making hose) to hold the ends, but aluminum and maybe duct tape works well to keep from scuffing up the ends. The fancy shops use chop saws, etc. but they really aren't necessary. Doing it yourself will make things a lot easier as you can fit the hose runs as you build rather than measuring. Keep in mind you'll not only be worried about oil lines, but also fuel, brake (or have they already been made?), oil pressure sender, etc. So you might want to tool up.
As a general rule in racing, you want to filter hot oil (so you have less pressure drop across the filter) and you want to cool filtered oil. The latter so that if you blow up your motor, you don't get trash in your cooler! We won't be blowing up motors now, will we!? But it makes for good practice. Then you want to feed the engine cooler oil.
I looked up what Dave (Bean) recommended and I had a vague recollection that I originally differed with his opinion and then another vague recollection that it actually ended up being the same when it was all finished so I thought I follow the hoses to confirm. Well, it really is a snake pit under the carbs so the hoses aren't easy to follow without crawling under the car, etc. (your pump is different so my particular set up is not as important to you) - which I'm happy to do if you still have questions, but think the rule I laid out gets to the nub of it.
With that in mind, you would filter your scavenge oil, then cool it, and then put it in the tank. If you use a thermostat, you would put that between the filter and the cooler. Your pressure pump is obviously fed from your tank.
I highly recommend Earl's hose ends - especially for the angled ends because they swivel and can be adjusted after they are assembled. That's very important if you have a hose with an angled end on both sides! Earl's probably has the largest selection of ends (e.g. hose to male BSP - useful for Brit dry sump pumps) and their quality is excellent. I'm sure you can find it in your neck of the woods but if not, JEGS, and Summit Racing carry it, I believe. Here's the catalog:
https://www.holley.com/brands/earls/. There's a nice video there that tells you how to assemble the fitting to the hose. They recommend a hack saw (or cut off wheel). When I was selling it, it was a real shoestring operation so there was no expensive cut off wheel in my garage! I started with the hacksaw, but eventually migrated to snips. I found it much easier.
They list bend radiuses in the catalog but in general, your heater hose trick should be pretty accurate. On the other hand, if you make your own hoses as I recommend, you'll know exactly what you're dealing with.
A precaution - the braid is very abrasive so you want to securely mount your hose anywhere it might mess up your paint or wear through electrical or heat insulation or body work. Heat shrink tube is handy to protect particular areas. They sell stainless steel braided hose that is completely covered for this purpose, but I think that sort ruins the effect - but maybe I'm just a traditionalist! There are some new types of hose and fittings since I was involved that you might want to explore, but as I say, I'm a traditionalist and I just like the stainless steel braid with the red and blue ends.
