Author Topic: Power window question  (Read 1686 times)

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Offline invjbo

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Power window question
« on: Friday,June 03, 2016, 06:51:23 AM »
I was out driving and tried to lower the Power windows. On the passenger side it came down approx 5 centimeters and on the driver side more or less the same. It had worked fairly OK in the garage Before. It felt as it was running with very high friction. Suddenly a "clonk" within the driver side door as something dropped inside the door. Took the door sill of and could see that the attachment on the bottom of the glass had come off and fell to the bottom. I managed to get it back on. But when lowering and raising the window by hand it ís very rough. I have tried to lubricate the felt with silicone spray and similar, but it runs with high friction. I wonder if maybe the curvature of the frame going down in the window is off.

My question is, does anyone have any good experience on getting the glass run smoother in the "felt linings", going up and down.
Lotus Europa S2 -71
VW Golf Gti -16
Bayliner 2455 -01
BMW S1000XR -16
Husqvarna Fe 450 -16

Offline 4129R

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Re: Power window question
« Reply #1 on: Friday,June 03, 2016, 08:36:53 AM »
New rubber runners are cheap and available from Banks Europa.

If they don't cure the problem, then something is bent.

Alex in Norfolk.

Offline Gearbox

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Re: Power window question
« Reply #2 on: Tuesday,June 07, 2016, 06:05:52 AM »
On my last Europa rebuild I had completely restored the car and the window mechanism.  I replaced all the felt, rebuilt the motors and even polished the scissor mechanism.  And as I recall I was able to get the windows to open and close in about 4-5 seconds, still no speed record.  But what helped a lot was using lithium grease on the mechanism and black graphite on the felt.  You can get the graphite from any hobby store as they use it for those pinewood derby cars.  You really don't want to use any kind of liquid on felt, it just makes it stick more.  But replacing the felt requires removing the glass and you have to do it while the frame is in the door as the rivets holding the frame to the door are behind the felt.  While I had the frame out to paint the car and pre cut and fitted the felt, the rivets requires a special rivet gun with a very narrow and long nose, so I had to buy a cheap gun and grind the sides of the nose down to fit.  And even after having the felt pre cut and test fitted, it was a bear getting the felt in while the frame was in the door.  But of course that was two decades ago and the memories of all the late nights fussing and swearing had diminished until you stirred it up again lol.  And of course I now have another Europa TC project.  Sigh.  But hey, the things we do for fun.  Good luck, Allan     

Offline BDA

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Re: Power window question
« Reply #3 on: Tuesday,June 07, 2016, 09:11:58 AM »
I tried to modify my rivet gun as you mentioned, but for some reason, I didn't think it was going to work - don't remember why now). Instead, I filled the holes in the door and screwed the channel in with sheet metal screws (after cutting small access holes in the back of the felt). So far no problems!

Offline 4129R

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Re: Power window question
« Reply #4 on: Tuesday,June 07, 2016, 10:16:20 AM »
I cut holes in the black linings and used a Stanley pop rivet gun with the sides ground down flat so instead of "O" the head was more like "="  .

Offline invjbo

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Re: Power window question
« Reply #5 on: Wednesday,June 08, 2016, 12:01:10 AM »
Thank you all for your insights. I suppose i will add this to the todo list for coming Winter. I will try and get hold of graphite and try meanwhile

Best regards
John
Lotus Europa S2 -71
VW Golf Gti -16
Bayliner 2455 -01
BMW S1000XR -16
Husqvarna Fe 450 -16

Offline andy harwood

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Re: Power window question
« Reply #6 on: Wednesday,June 08, 2016, 02:32:54 PM »
powdered graphite is also available as a lock lubricant, so home supply stores carry.
I *think* I remember seeing that BMW sells a lubricant for sticking windows, never looked into it though.

Offline jjbunn

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Re: Power window question
« Reply #7 on: Thursday,June 09, 2016, 11:06:20 AM »
My recollection of doing this is that if the rails get even slightly bent out of the required curve shape, then the window glass binds. This had happened to my driver's door rails, and it was quite obvious when pushing the window glass up and down by hand - a bit of judicious flexing/bending did the trick.

Offline andy harwood

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Re: Power window question
« Reply #8 on: Thursday,June 09, 2016, 01:44:29 PM »
I cut holes in the black linings and used a Stanley pop rivet gun with the sides ground down flat so instead of "O" the head was more like "="  .

I like that idea BDA!

Offline BDA

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Re: Power window question
« Reply #9 on: Thursday,June 09, 2016, 02:28:12 PM »
Thanks, Andy... I think... (you quoted 4129R! :) )

That does jar my memory a bit and one thing that my method allowed me to do is install the window felt in the rails and then install the assy. in the window. Since I didn't actually wrestle with the "normal" assembly method, I don't know that my method is really any easier, but it seems like it might be.

Offline andy harwood

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Re: Power window question
« Reply #10 on: Friday,June 10, 2016, 02:55:04 AM »
Sorry about the misquote.
But, yes, BDA, I like your idea of using screws.