Those pesky output shaft nuts again....

[Naildriver]

So I'm trying to remove the output shaft finned nuts to re-new the seals....I did the right thing....I bought one of Richard Winter's golden tools....The nut moved fractionally and then all but 4 of the fins tinkled onto the workshop floor. The four remainders are all together, so I can't get purchase. I've now ordered a bike clutch tool AND one of those bearing tools from the USA. My concern is that the nut was very tight indeed and only just moved with  3/4" socket and bar on the tool and as much leverage as I could muster. Should I heat the nut or just rely on easing oil? Will these other tools give me enough purchase..? I'm starting to wish I'd just put up with the leak! As ever, any advice or experiences gladly received!

[EuropaTC]

What gearbox is it ?  If it's the 336 then I think you need to shift the nut to renew the seal.

If it's a 352 then although I'll get shot down for this, you can renew the seal without removing the finned contraption. It's easier with the box out of the car but still possible in situ although pressing the new seal in is awkward.  You destroy the old seal getting it out with a screwdriver and I used a slim magnet to remove the shims and steel spacer on the output shaft to get at the inner O ring. If you have a 352 then there's a picture in the manual like the attachment.

If you must remove it then yep, I'd drain the gearbox oil and use heat if it's as tight as you say. With the proper tool it should come off without heating but someone might have used loctite in an attempt to ensure it was leak free at some point in the past.

Brian

[4129R]

Does anyone know of a source for those castellated ring nuts holding the bearing in?

There must be enough of us wanting some to commission Richard at Banks to get a lot made up.

Alex in Norfolk.

[BDA]

That's the method Renault has used for seals for their output shafts for many years - and I wouldn't be surprised if they still use it. I wouldn't be surprised if you could get them from Renault. That would be my first call.

[jbcollier]

Aluminum nut into aluminum case means the threads can gall easily.  Must use a sealant that is also a lubricant. 

[Naildriver]

Thanks for the replies; I'll try these new tools with heat first before diving in with the screwdriver. JB, as I'm a confirmed idiot, can you recommend an appropriate sealant/lubricant? I also face a problem from the PO, who appears to have fitted a steel sleeve over the output shaft, secured by a grub screw, to prevent the scroll pin falling out. Whilst I can see some logic in this, the driver's side sleeve appears to be fused to the yoke, so I can't turn it to expose the scroll pin. I can't see this sleeve illustrated in my manual, so assume its a modification. More heat and damaged hands required methinks..!

[Grumblebuns]

I've had success using the motorcycle clutch basket holding tool in removing the finned nut from three 336 gearboxes. To keep the tool from slipping off of the nut, keep pressure on the nut with your palm as you work the nut back and forth with the tool. The advantage of the clutch tool is that it applies force in the depression between the fins and not on the fins directly. Another use of the tool is removing the sometimes difficult to remove spacer by flipping the tool over and using it as a vice tool.

Leakage from the threads is another source of leaky gear oil. I've had success using both Hylomar and thread (pipe) sealant.

I also need to replace the output shaft nuts on my 365 gearbox that I destroyed the fins using a screwdriver many many years ago. If someone has a source for replacement fins, please let the group know. As a last resort, I know of a machinist who may be able to machine up a replacements if there is enough demand. It will not be cheap however.

[jbcollier]

Basically a non-hardening sealer such as hylomar, Permatex Aviation Form a Gasket or Permatex Thread Sealant with PTFE.  Probably the latter would be the best.

[Grumblebuns]

All you need is a tiny bit at the leading edge of the threads. Most will be squeezed out as you tighten the nut. It's very messy trying to clean up the excess sealant squeezed out at the edge. 

[Naildriver]

Thank you all. First nut off, thanks to that great tool from Summit Racing, who shipped to me in UK in just three days. Would Stag Wellseal be suitable for sealing the threads? I use it for just about everything requiring a thin coat of sealant, but the PO had used Loctite I think, so I don't want to face that trauma again!

[Grumblebuns]

As jbcollier said, use a sealant that is non hardening.

No experience with using Wellseal on threads so can't comment. I have used Wellseal for the TC front cover backing plate when I last did a water pump job. Wellseal is extremely tacky and I don't remember if it hardens over time.