Author Topic: Crash Pads  (Read 3709 times)

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Offline 4129R

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Crash Pads
« on: Thursday,January 21, 2016, 10:32:08 AM »
Are there any owners out there who need a new covering for their crashpad, the black plastic bit under the windscreen.

I have taken delivery of the "kit" from Banks which includes the foam and the black cover which need to be trimmed and stuck together before fixing, but I need 5 more covers only, and I am thinking of getting a quote from a coach trimmer to make just the black plastic coverings, now I have the pattern.

To fit the crashpad you have to move the dashboard forward, remove the windscreen, undo the screws holding the vents into the crashpad, and out it comes.

Therefore this is not a small job, but they crack with age and sun, and look awful if damaged.

If there is enough interest, I will see what the coach trimmer can do for a bulk order.

I think they only come in black, like the Model T Ford.

Alex in Norfolk.

Offline 4129R

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Re: Crash Pads
« Reply #1 on: Saturday,August 20, 2016, 04:26:59 AM »
I have just taken the dashboard and crashpad out of 4688R.

It seems the crashpad and the dasboard were stapled and glued together during assembly.

That would explain why I had such great difficulty getting the dashboard in 3089R after fitting a new crashpad.

Therefore fitting the dashboard during assembly would be done before the windscreen goes in, which would make it a lot easier.

Alex in Norfolk.


Offline Grumblebuns

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Re: Crash Pads
« Reply #2 on: Saturday,August 20, 2016, 04:49:09 PM »
I hope you have better luck than I've had in installing the Banks crash pad. Going on four years now and it's still not completely installed. Richard Winters told me that there will be a lot of trimming required to make it fit. Constructed of fiberglass, the crash pad is extremely stiff with almost no flex so the trimming has to be almost perfect.  I think I have the contour of the fit against the front area under the windshield pretty close. Unfortunately the fit against the dash is still pretty poor. I haven't given up on the job, just taking a break from it so I'm very interested in how yours comes out.

FYI, there is a write up on the Banks crash pad installation by some one who was successful:

http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/misc/Banks_Crash_Pad_Installation.htm

Joji Tokumoto
Fallbrook, Ca 

Offline 4129R

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Re: Crash Pads
« Reply #3 on: Saturday,November 11, 2017, 04:55:12 AM »
Well the time had come to replace the dashboard in 4259R. Not only was it badly rotted, but I am converting to RHD.

Having contorted myself down both footwells to remove the 5/16 nuts holding the bottom to the end brackets, I then removed the 4 chrome cross headed screws in the top, and the two nuts and bolts holding the centre bottom to the tunnel and chassis.

I then removed the steering column, and in theory there were no more bolts holding the dash in place.

Then I remembered the dash is stapled and glued to the crashpad.

So you have to take the crashpad out unless you are very lucky, and the ply comes away without sticking to the crashpad.

To take the crashpad out, you have to unscrew both screen vents, 4 small cross headed screws for each.

To get to these screws, you have to take the screen out.

Getting the screen out has to be done with care, careful prising with wide screw drivers, and cutting the rubber gunge with a hacksaw blade. But I managed to put two cracks in the screen.

If you think about this process, the dash probably needs replacing because the screen leaks, so it would have to come out anyway.

The water leaks were so bad on 4259R that the pedal box bottom plate disintegrated into rust dust, the plate holding the clutch cable to the tunnel similarly disintegrated, and the rod to the brake master was history where it attaches to the pedal with the Y piece.

The car is so badly corroded that I sheared the 11/16 bolt holding the seat belt to the centre chassis. More drilling and tapping threads will be required there.

3089R is nearly re-painted, then 4129R goes to get painted black again, then 4259R will be next in the queue for a yellow paint job.





 

 

Online BDA

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Re: Crash Pads
« Reply #4 on: Saturday,November 11, 2017, 06:09:12 AM »
Man, 4259R sounds like a real basket case! Kudos to you for giving her a new lease on life!
« Last Edit: Saturday,November 11, 2017, 07:09:20 AM by BDA »

Stuleslie

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Re: Crash Pads
« Reply #5 on: Saturday,November 11, 2017, 06:29:37 AM »
Hi Alex, I would be interested in a crash pad cover.
Thanks, Stuart

Offline dakazman

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Re: Crash Pads
« Reply #6 on: Saturday,November 11, 2017, 12:59:48 PM »
I might be in as well , depending on price and appearance.
Dakazman

Offline EuropaTC

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Re: Crash Pads
« Reply #7 on: Saturday,November 11, 2017, 10:58:51 PM »
The stapling and gluing must have been later in the production run Alex, or perhaps just for cars destined for hotter climates ?  I replaced the dashboard in my car years ago and it just came out without needing to move the crash pad or screen. Or perhaps it was a last ditch attempt by Lotus to stop the rattles ?   ;)

Offline 4129R

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Re: Crash Pads
« Reply #8 on: Sunday,November 12, 2017, 12:24:56 AM »
As well as the stapling and gluing, the speedo and tacho plastic binnacle were screwed through the plastic of the crashpad with 2 screws at the top.

So the crashpad, the dashboard and the whole wiring loom must have been put in the car in 1 operation.

I have only found this on 74 model cars, 4259R and 4688R.

Stuleslie

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Re: Crash Pads
« Reply #9 on: Sunday,November 12, 2017, 12:45:32 AM »
Yes my model 74, 1972 TC 4161 is the same. I have fitted the crash pad to the top frame with the demist vents held on with nuts and set screws so it can be removed without taking screen out. The binnacle and glove box are now fixed to dash and cut away from the crash pad. The only place that needs fixing is around the eyeball air vents where I put selftaps where the staples used to be.

Stu

Offline 4129R

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Re: Crash Pads
« Reply #10 on: Sunday,November 12, 2017, 04:50:03 AM »
4129R was not stuck together, so the cut off point must be around 4150 beginning of November 1973.

Offline dakazman

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Re: Crash Pads
« Reply #11 on: Sunday,November 12, 2017, 01:15:28 PM »
4129...So are you saying the crashpads are different for an s2? I have not shopped for this yet.
See attached . I will need one in the future along with a new console, rugs etc.
I see someone has a vendor listed for rugs in the gallery.
Dakazman


Offline 4129R

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Re: Crash Pads
« Reply #12 on: Sunday,November 12, 2017, 04:13:23 PM »
That looks the same as a TCS, but until you compare them side by side, you won't know that they are exactly the same.

It is the fixing method of the crashpad to the wooden dashboard that is different on 74 models.

Offline 4129R

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Re: Crash Pads
« Reply #13 on: Sunday,August 16, 2020, 09:59:20 AM »
I have just spent all Sunday trying to bolt the crashpad and dashboard into 2520R.

There are just 4 x 1/4 UNC chrome bolts at the top, 2 x 2 x 3/16 UNF studs to the side brackets, the two vents held in with 4 x self tapping screws, then the two earthing bolts to the chassis just below where the ashtray sits. 

I had to use a scissor jack to push the dashboard up to align the 4 top screws.

Now the injection moulded crashpad is too high so the windscreen won't fit.

Has anyone fitted a plastic injection moulded crashpad? (Available from SJ Sportscars)

I am thinking of borrowing my wife's hair dryer to warm up the plastic, and press it down, so it aligns with where the windscreen meets the fibreglass surround, about where the chassis number plate is pop riveted in place.

Has anyone used this method to change the shape of moulded plastic?

Fitting the dashboard has to be the hardest part of a restoration. First you have to get all the wires attached, then the washer tubes, then the oil pressure pipe, then the speedo, only then can you start bolting it in place. I had to extend 3 wires (fuel gauge, temp gauge and heater fan) by 6" to fit them before the dashboard was pushed into place. I held the dashboard 3" away from  the crashpad with 2 wires through the demister vents so it was all nearly in place while I connected the oil pipe, the speedo cable and all the wiring.

This is as much for me for the next 3 I have to do, as for anyone else.

Note to self, don't rush it, take your time, double check every cable pipe and wire connection, the left side bracket goes in the higher of the two door switches and take care not to hit the wiper drive with the speedometer. Remember the two earth to the side brackets, and the earth on the bottom of the wiper motor. Use long super screws with chrome cups to hold the vent plates in position. Paint those screws matt black after they have been fixed.

Offline dakazman

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Re: Crash Pads
« Reply #14 on: Sunday,August 16, 2020, 02:10:37 PM »
   BIG THANKS 4129 :trophy:

 I'm not quite there yet but thanks for posting. its an excellent post on assembly procedures and pitfalls.

   dakazman