Author Topic: leaking diff output shaft  (Read 3758 times)

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Offline grnicholson

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leaking diff output shaft
« on: Monday,January 18, 2016, 05:02:53 AM »
I have a 1971 Europa S2 and the gearbox is leaking big time from the output shaft.  What's the cure?  New bearing/seal, other remedy?  Is it necessary to pull the gearbox?  The PO has obviously spotted the problem and taken out the drive pin and replaced it with a tiny piece of wire (!!)

Any advice or info would be much appreciated.

Richard in sunny Spain - 20 degrees C today - brilliant sunshine - very cheap beer - this must be heaven...............

Offline jbcollier

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Re: leaking diff output shaft
« Reply #1 on: Monday,January 18, 2016, 06:24:13 AM »
Remove the half shaft.

Carefully mark the position of the seal nut/flange.

Remove the seal/nut flange while counting the number of turns (partial turns count as well). (RD Enterprises sells the tool. Do not use a hammer and screwdriver!)

Pry out out seal run sleeve.

Replace seal run sleeve o-ring (lubricate well and push hard.  It will "pop" into place).

Replace seal and lube seal lip with light grease.

Clean threads.  Coat with non-hardening sealant (Hylomar).

Reinstall seal/nut flange to EXACTLY the same position.

Refit fit half shaft and shim properly.

Shop manuals can be found here:

http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/index.htm

Offline Runningwild

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Re: leaking diff output shaft
« Reply #2 on: Monday,January 18, 2016, 09:43:25 AM »
Are the left and right sides of the trans both anti clock  ways to loosen the seal/nut flange ?

Offline jbcollier

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Re: leaking diff output shaft
« Reply #3 on: Monday,January 18, 2016, 11:01:41 AM »
Yes

Offline Grumblebuns

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Re: leaking diff output shaft
« Reply #4 on: Monday,January 18, 2016, 12:25:22 PM »
Remove the half shaft.

Carefully mark the position of the seal nut/flange.

Remove the seal/nut flange while counting the number of turns (partial turns count as well). (RD Enterprises sells the tool. Do not use a hammer and screwdriver!)

Pry out out seal run sleeve.

Replace seal run sleeve o-ring (lubricate well and push hard.  It will "pop" into place).

Replace seal and lube seal lip with light grease.

Clean threads.  Coat with non-hardening sealant (Hylomar).

Reinstall seal/nut flange to EXACTLY the same position.

Refit fit half shaft and shim properly.

Shop manuals can be found here:

http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/index.htm

Adding to what JBC posted and just my personal opinion and experience from my last two seal replacements.

Remove the half shaft.

Carefully mark the position of the seal nut/flange.

Remove the seal/nut flange while counting the number of turns (partial turns count as well). (RD Enterprises sells the tool. Do not use a hammer and screwdriver!)
Heed the warning about not using a hammer and screwdriver. New finned nuts are almost unobtainable if you break off the fins, ask me how I know. One readily available and cheap effective tool is a motorcycle clutch basket holder. It works very well in removing tight tranny seal nuts.

Pry out seal run sleeve.
I flipped the clutch basket holder tool 90 degrees and use it as a vise grip to clamp onto the sleeve to wiggle it out. The metal of the tool is softer than the sleeve so there is no chance of scratching the surface of the sleeve.
Make sure that the old shims stuck to the yoke or sleeve  on the transaxle are removed. Use the number and thickness of the old shim as a starting point for you new shims. The final number and thickess of shims may be different when you get done
.

Replace seal run sleeve o-ring (lubricate well and push hard. It will "pop" into place).
My "O" rings were extremely difficult to pop into place. What I did was to re-install the wheels and lowered the car to the floor. The weight of the car popped the sleeve over the "O" ring over time. Just make sure that the "O" ring and sleeve or well lubricated. That "O" ring is the second barrier to gear oil leaks. Any tears or nicks in the "O" ring and you will eventually end up with leaks.

Replace seal and lube seal lip with light grease.

Clean threads. Coat with non-hardening sealant (Hylomar).
Sealing up the super fine threads of the retaining nut is the last step in reducing the chance of oil leaks from the output shafts. I've used both Hylomar and Loctite 580 pipe thread pipe sealant with equal success. All you need is a very tiny amount of sealant to coat the threads or you will end up cleaning up the squeezed out excess when you are done.

Reinstall seal/nut flange to EXACTLY the same position.

Refit fit half shaft and shim properly.
Shimming of the output shaft is the most labor intensive part of the job. There is a ton of postings on how to shim in the Knowledgebase. Read up on it before you start.


I found the pictures of the clutch basket holder tool.
http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=648.0

Joji Tokumoto
Fallbrook, Ca

Offline Gmg31

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Re: leaking diff output shaft
« Reply #5 on: Tuesday,January 19, 2016, 08:34:22 AM »
http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1120.0;attach=6746;image

This tool is available from Banks it is expensive but don't try to do the job without it.

Offline jbcollier

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Re: leaking diff output shaft
« Reply #6 on: Tuesday,January 19, 2016, 10:31:23 AM »
The 336 4-speed box has the seal mounted inside the special seal/nut flange which is why you have to remove it.  Some later transaxles have it outside as shown in the link above.  No need to remove the special seal/nut flange on the later ones as you can easily pop the seal out.

Offline Gmg31

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Re: leaking diff output shaft
« Reply #7 on: Wednesday,January 20, 2016, 04:55:35 AM »
Even with all the tools and all the advice it is still possible to get this wrong.  On one side of mine the castle nut just stopped turning at 5 turns (should have been 8.5) and would not move.  To be honest I wondered if I had cross threaded it but I knew that the first two turns were very easy. I gave up and took it to a local gearbox specialist.  and asked for help.  He explained that the problem is that both the box casing and the nut are aluminium and if they aren't cleaned perfectly and oiled correctly they just lock up and will not move.  If you try too hard you then ruin one or the other.  He removed the castle nut and used a special thread file to clean the inner thread and the castle nut, lubed it all up and it all went back together with a huge sigh of relief. 

It is essential to count the number of turns out and even if they are different you must screw them back in the same number of turns.  Richard at Banks recommends painting the top lug and then recording the process on your phone so even if you forget to can re refer to your video.   

Offline grnicholson

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Re: leaking diff output shaft
« Reply #8 on: Friday,February 05, 2016, 05:45:32 AM »
Hi All
Thanks for your help.  I am going to make up a tool myself to undo the nut - not a big job.  I am grateful for the other info, makes life very easy.

Richard in sunny Spain - 18 degrees C today, warmer manana.  Waiting for brake bits from the UK.