New UK Member living in the US.

[BDA]

What about a jet nut? They have a much smaller hex than the standard nut of that size. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=MJET&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=MJET&gclid=Cj0KEQjwi_W9BRD_3uio_Jz-p8UBEiQANU80vtFPJ7r_EzaG0nuyahxYbTKmGwkKLkbkxhGbY63o_NcaAn-y8P8HAQ

I forgot to mention that they're also lock nuts.

[Grumblebuns]

The problem is getting the existing retaining nut off. Looking at the S2 parts book, it appears that Renault originally used a long bolt and long spacer to reduce the access problem, items 6 & 10 as Brian surmised.

http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/s2parts/e/ef.htm

My S2 has an Else style intake manifold. The PO used a stud and a long round threaded nut with an internal hex to secure the manifold. It seems to work well although I haven't tried to remove the manifold yet. I think the OP, Paul, gave up on removing his manifold. 

[4129R]

Here is my suggestion:-

You will have to take the head off, and then either carefully use a centre punch to rotate the nut, or drill a hole into the nut and then insert a drill bit or something very hard to start rotating the nut.

Once you turn the nut 2 flats (1/3 of a turn), it should get much easier to rotate.

Alex in Norfolk.

[Paul_71]

Thanks everyone for the recommendations. The old nut is off so I am just looking for a fix onto the stud. I'll try the collar approach first and then might have to result to the thinner wall sectioned nut.

Here is a few pictures of the car so far. Plenty to do but making some good head way. (excuse the temp wiring loom, hose config and old rad)

[BDA]

I'm surprised you didn't put the steering wheel and seats in your pictures! 

It looks like you're making good progress! It gets like a snowball where the further you get, the more exciting is is!

Good luck and thanks for the pictures!

[Grumblebuns]

Good job, everything looks real clean. What size battery are you using? In the photo (6th one down), it looks to be humongous.

 

[Paul_71]

It's an EverStart 51R battery. Not so big in real life. 12x23x20height cm

[Paul_71]

I've got a few questions which I hoped people can help me out with which have been accumulating:
1. What vehicle does the steering outer column come from? Mines with the hole for a key locked steering. S2 federal 71.
2. What holds the brake line along the backbone lower corner of the frame? Mines a new frame and has no holes. Is it p clips or a tape?
3. What colour should the Renault rover cover be and in what finish? Gloss, satin, etc. I'm planning on getting it power coated.
4. What colour should the pullies be on the Renault engine and also large washer/ spacers which are used on the cam pulley.

It's my intention to go for the OEM look so keen to keep it as per original specs as possible. (Within a budget of course!!!)

Thanks everyone in advance.

[Grumblebuns]

When I pulled the body off of the frame from 0934R, I found the brake lines going to the rear just dangling. Looking at the splices in the brake lines (see picture) I didn't think that was the original setup. After flipping the frame over, I saw several drilled holes in the bottom of the frame along the edge. I believe that was how the lines to the rear were originally secured. with "P" clips. I can't see any manufacturer leaving brake lines just dangling like that. When one of the POs spliced in the new brake line, he apparently didn't reattach the clips.

Regarding the steering post this was posted a while back on the Yahoo mail list message #143464.

Quote
"I upgraded my S2 many years back with column switched from the Triumph Dolomite, which were the same pattern as the Europa Special

 

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=triumph+dolomite+interior&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=627&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjaiOW73dLOAhXqJ8AKHT2QA0sQ_AUIBigB

 

Also later 1500 Spitfires

 

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=triumph+dolomite+interior&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=627&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjaiOW73dLOAhXqJ8AKHT2QA0sQ_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&q=triumph+1500+interior&imgrc=_

 

2.5PI, Stag were also the same.  Perhaps Lotus had to change or order old spec S1, S2 in smaller quantities at increased cost?"
Unquote-

   

[Paul_71]

Thanks everyone. I acquired a new steering outer column and fixed a few of the other outstanding bits.
New brake lines made, fitted and ran fluid through it with the MS set up. Few leaks fixed, corrected with some bedding in of the flare joints. All fine now. Time to disconnect the MS in readiness for the body. Or at least the first fix.
New loom and reassembly is next to do.

I've added some pictures below of the final paint job. Car is ready today and heading over there for collection.

[EuropaTC]

Exciting or what ?   

The paint looks good.  I always used to think that black was the best colour for a Europa but since joining here and seeing a few white ones, I could see that conviction wavering. It does seem a colour that suits the lines.

Right, you've got body and bits at home to play with now, so no excuses for a regular picture-fest ! 

Brian

[BDA]

She does look great - especially because she's white! I have to agree with Brian that black is a beautiful color as well. Black can be the most stunning color for a car, but as difficult as white is to keep clean, black is much worse.

For some reason, I've always thought that if a car looks good white, it's a pretty car, but maybe that just shows my prejudice for white!

[Paul_71]

Ok... So, there has to be a way of getting this body on that frame for a first fix. (Holes for new frame need marking out and drilling). I have friends, an engine lift with tilting device, wooden 4x2 and some determination.

I'm thinking a two stage approach. Build 4 posts from some kind of concrete blocks around 70cm high.
Lift the body with friends and wood beams running side to side onto the four posts positioned at the four corners of the rockers. This will enable to body to clear the engine.

Lift the front, remove a block from each side, repeat on back, do front again and repeat until I he body is sat on the frame. Mark the holes and lift in reverse order with blocks.

Is there an easier way. For example using the engine lift and building some kind of structure to lift the body without obstructing the engine or frame during assembly.

Advice welcomed!

[EuropaTC]

When I did mine, it was a similar method to you suggest. ( only minus the friends    )

I had 2 thick planks running the length of the sills, probably scaffolding boards, 6-8" wide, 2" thick ?  To remove the chassis I used 2 trolley jacks and simply went from one side to the other slowly raising it to the max lift. Then it would be secured on 2 axle stands per side, rinse & repeat the process. Once the axle stands were as high as I felt comfortable with, I used anything to hand to lift their base high enough, bricks, 4" fence posts, anything.

I rolled it out and back in, complete with engine & wheels just as you're proposing. 

I don't have detailed pictures of the process, but there was a lot of shuffling of axle stands & jacks going on.  I was a bit stuck for space so didn't have any other option really.  Someone on here recently posted a shot with a custom built wooden framework and ropes/pulley to lift the car (Leftangle ?) which looked a neat approach. 

[4129R]

This is how I did 4688R.