New UK Member living in the US.

[Paul_71]

Thanks.

[Paul_71]

On to the next job:

Has anyone made their own inner wheel arch covers? These are the cardboard type material flaps that are riveted to the body. Any recommendations would be welcomed.

[BDA]

I don't know if this helps you, but I had my original ones so I used them as a template. I used a black plastic material I found somewhere.

[4129R]

I would use rubber or plastic, similar to that used for mud flaps.

Make sure they do not hit the tyres when you turn the steering wheel, as they are a tight fit if you have 185 tyres (mine hit, so I will have to modify).

[EuropaTC]

I used 1/4" rubber at first, then last year replaced the front ones with 1mm Aluminium painted black.   The aluminium ones are a better fit and fix with self tapping screws and sealant.

[buzzer]

I did the same as Brian, used 1mm aluminium sheet. The front one pop riveted and sealed with silicone and the rear I fitted nutserts in the body and screwed the panels in, so I can access to the fuel tank bolts. I used a cardboard template to get the shape.

Dave

[Grumblebuns]

Great thank you for the info. Ill leave it alone with a rubber Bing installed.

Next question:
What colour should this box be? Shown here in red.

I've run across one MC bracket boxes painted red and four with red primer and painted or coated black. I've been painting mine red.   

[blasterdad]

That's a bung not Bing.

 

[Paul_71]

Here are a few pictures of the progress so far.

I have some questions which I'll post tomorrow related to some issues I'm facing in the assembly.

[BDA]

She's coming together! Keep those pictures coming! 

[Paul_71]

I had replaced the MS with the Cardone 13-1777 as per this link. http://www.lotuseuropa.org/downloadable_files/S2-Alternate-MC.pdf

Everything went together well and I included the recommended large stopper washer to prevent the plunger from coming out of the MS.

The issue then came that the push rod from the pedal to the three way junction wasn't long enough to attach to the brake pedal. The stopper washer was doing it's job but preventing the rod from coming out far enough. There was around 2cm gap from the pedal. If I connected them together the pedal would effectively be flat to the back wall. I unscrew the push rod out and it only provided a little improvement. Its like I need to add an extension piece (similar to the steering rack and rod end joints) in there to extend the push rod length. I tried to capture the issue with the pictures below.

Has anyone else had this issue? The pedal assembly is new and I'm thinking the foot print of the plate is larger, so pushing it further away from the original position.

[Grumblebuns]

If you have the rod connecting the MC to the brake pedal screwed out as far as possible and you're still 2 cm short the simplest and safest way is to replace with a longer threaded rod or a longer clevis. This will however require you to remove the MC bracket box again. Pegasus has two different lengths clevis, see attached pictures for lengths. McMaster-Carr sells the threaded rods. You need to measure carefully what you need.

Joji Tokumoto
Fallbrook, Ca   

[Paul_71]

Thanks Grumblebuns. I'll get those parts on order. I am assuming with the application, a high strength steel threaded rod (G8) would be better.

Regarding the angle of the brake pedal, is there any guidelines for what I should be headed for? for instance the actual foot pedal surface (Centre area) should be 90 degrees to the floor?

[Grumblebuns]

I don't believe that the service manual addresses the position of the brake pedal. It's probably more a matter of personal preference. My S2 has it's brake pedal almost vertical with a slight rearward lean. My TCS is the opposite with a slight forward lean.

Just a word of caution if you change out the clevis. Make sure that the function of the large fender washer inside the MC brake extension is not compromised with the change of clevis length. I would choose the shorter clevis and use a longer threaded section to make up the necessary shortage of the stock rod. Cutting the head from a 2-1/2" long bolt and using the it to connect the clevis to the stock pushrod should give you enough play to connect to the brake pedal at minimal cost.

 

 

[Paul_71]

I'm about to start the installation of the new wiring harness and wanted to collect any advice/ lessons learnt from the forum.

I have a large scaled up wiring diagram print posted on the garage wall, have the new harness all set to go.

What are the recommended steps and procedures to make sure this is done correctly. Although I am confident in general wiring items, it is the first time I have installed a whole new harness and sure others have this procedure to make this as painless as possible. Not to mention making a mistake and burning the thing up.