Removing the Renault engine from a S2

[Runningwild]

Finally the front suspension is done ( thanks for the help ) - now I need to pull the engine. It's a very early 68 S2   The manual states to drive out the pin holding the u-joint to the trans shaft.
- Any idea what size punch?
- Any idea where to attach chains to lift the motor
- Do I run lines to the motor and trans I order to lift
- It has the S1 shift linkage and there is a pivot bolt on the side of the engine -can't get to it to pull out the shifter shaft.
I was thinking of lifting the motor, unbolt everything, then let it down onto a dolly. Lift the back of the car over the motor?
Thanks for any info 

[BDA]

I believe the roll pin that holds the u-joint to the output shaft is 3/16". The stock roll pin (on my TC at least) is a single spiral pin so it's best to use a punch that is the right size but if you're careful, you can use a smaller one. If you choose to replace the roll pin, sometimes you get a big roll pin with a small one - you drive in the big one first, then the small one. The single roll pins are sometimes hard to find  but the two pin set up is perfectly good. Also watch out for the shims under the u-joint. If you are using the same u-joint on that output shaft, you'll want to use the same shims. (ok, I wandered off topic a little)

I'm not familiar with the Renault motor but you might look at taking off the intake and exhaust manifolds and bolt a chain to the studs or bolts that held them on. Another tact you might want to consider is getting some rope and try to tie it on both sides. You will probably want it to be somewhat balanced so it doesn't get away from you when you unbolt it from the car.

Maybe the best way is to pick up the motor and tranny in one piece, but consider taking them out separately. It's been a long time since I did mine so I don't really remember, but I have taken the tranny out by it self a few times so taking the tranny out first is an option. Also check to see what they advise in the workshop manual.

I think it's probably best to pull the motor up and out. You probably want to minimize how high you put the car when it's on stands or blocks. In fact, you may want to take the rear suspension off and then lower the car.

I assume you're going to use a hoist from a friend or rented from a car parts store.

Somebody else will probably have more recent and better advise but hopefully that will give you some thing to think about. It shouldn't be very difficult but you might have to stare at it for a while. Make sure all the cables, wires, and hoses are disconnected first.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!!!

[EuropaTC]

The roll pins usually come out easily, as BDA says there are 2 types. One has an outer & inner pin, the other is a single scroll pin. Given the age of these cars, you could have either or even one of each.   I removed the 2 pin style by driving out the inner pin first, I didn't have a drift and ended up using a 2mm (?) masonry nail ( ) that I'd ground the point away. Even worse, it's still in the "special tools" section of my toolbox - well, they are hardened steel and don't bend like standard nails when you hit them with big hammers 

BDA has mentioned retaining the output shaft shims. What I've done is once the driveshaft is clear make sure the shims haven't stuck to the U-Joint section and are still on the output shaft, then pop a cable tie through the roll pin hole so there's no chance of your memory failing or getting the shims mixed up/damaged/etc.

If you have an engine hoist or suitable beam & pulley block, then it's probably easier to get the engine/gearbox out as one unit. With the engine back lid & storage bin removed you can get in there with plenty of room to work.  Removing the gearbox alone is always an option but when I did mine last year to replace the clutch it was quite a job to separate them in situ.  If the engine's coming out anyway, I'd lift the lot out at once.  It's probably easier to balance the complete assembly anyway, just slings front & mid way down the gearbox ?

Brian

[Runningwild]

Thanks guys. I have the car under the electric race car chassis lift so that will work out fine.  I pulled every thing off the motor I could get to. Hopefully it will be out in a few days. 

[Grumblebuns]

Finally the front suspension is done ( thanks for the help ) - now I need to pull the engine. It's a very early 68 S2   The manual states to drive out the pin holding the u-joint to the trans shaft.
- Any idea what size punch?
- Any idea where to attach chains to lift the motor
- Do I run lines to the motor and trans I order to lift
- It has the S1 shift linkage and there is a pivot bolt on the side of the engine -can't get to it to pull out the shifter shaft.
I was thinking of lifting the motor, unbolt everything, then let it down onto a dolly. Lift the back of the car over the motor?
Thanks for any info

Tom,

On my last two Europa engine R&Rs, both on twin cams but the S2 should be very similar, I removed the engine from the bottom pretty much how you're thinking of doing it. On the twin cam, there is a lot of space on the rear transmission hoop to attach a lift strap. On the S2, the hoop is tighter to the body. You may have to get creative on how to attach the strap. I figured that the chance of doing damage to the body will be smaller with one person doing the job, from the bottom than from the top. I used some cheap Harbor Freight moving dollies to support the engine after disconnecting the engine brackets. I've forgotten the details of how I supported the engine while removing the engine brackets but apparently it wasn't that difficult. With the engine on the ground on dollies, I believe the rear of the car had to be raised around 33" to clear the transmission hoop.

The outer roll pin for the output shaft is 7mm, the inner is 4mm. Uncompressed, both are a tad larger. On the 336 tranny, you can punch out the roll pin from the top. On the right side, the gearbox case sticks out just enough that you can't get a straight vertical shot at the pin. You may want to punch it out from the bottom. I've enclosed a picture of a twin cam engine and gearbox about ready to be reinstalled into my TCS.

Joji Tokumoto