Water Pump - Car sat for 20 years

[CCM911]

My TC sat for 20 years.  I can still see coolant in the overflow tank and there are no indications of leaking.

Car has 10k on the clock.

Do I need to replace the Water Pump as a matter of course?  Will it definitely leak when I start the engine?

Sorry for all the questions, but this is my first Lotus.

[BDA]

I'm sorry I can't speak authoritatively on whether your water pump is still good, I would just suggest that if it is bad and you need to work on it, that you get a cassette pump as a replacement. Dave Bean, and probably others, sells them. They allow you to replace the pump without taking the front cover off the engine - which I think requires you to take off the head.
 

[Grumblebuns]

Having done a TC Europa water pump replacement not too long ago, it's something that I wouldn't do unless I know for sure that it's leaking or I'm pulling the head for another reason. Although it's said to be possible to replace a WP with the engine in place, to do a good job, in my opinion, the engine should come out.

I would first try to spin the WP by hand to verify that it's free spinning and check for leaks afterwards. Inactivity is supposed to be a WP's worst enemy.

[EuropaTC]

I agree with Joji, I wouldn't replace it either unless there is obvious signs of leaking or rocking on the spindle. The small internal seal may have partially stuck over the years and so turning by hand very slowly would be my first thoughts as well.  Changing the pump is a simple but lengthy job, not something I'd do without a good reason.

Brian

[CCM911]

Thanks, guys!

My initial thought was to start the engine and see if it leaked.  You definitely have confimed that I had the right idea.

And yes, I will go the casette route when the time comes.

[BDA]

Let us know what happens when you fire her up!

 

[4129R]

I would take the drive belt off by undoing 4 x 7/16 bolts on the pulley, and then turn the pump backwards and forwards slowly by hand to see if it feels free, or grates, or is siezed.

I have replaced 4 in the last 2 months while rebuilding 4 engines. You need the head off to do it properly, so ideally the engine would need to come out, or you cannot get to the chain and cam sprockets which need to come off to get the head off.

If the pump feels free and turns easily, the only thing else that can go wrong is it can leak, and this can only be found out when the engine is up to temperature, and the cooling system is pressurised.

If all is well, I would drain the whole cooling system, flush it all through a few times, and then fill it with about 2 pints of antifreeze and clean water. 

[lotus4me]

I will go the casette route when the time comes.

if you are not a stickler for originality, consider fitting an electric water pump....e.g. davies craig........super efficient cooling!!

[CCM911]

You have more confidence than I have!  I am a month or two away from firing her up.

This weekend, I will remount the sump and replace the two rear soft brake lines, and attempt the Master Cylinder rebuild.

This darn car is going to take forever!

Let us know what happens when you fire her up!

 

[BDA]

I bet  you'll get yours on the road sooner than I did. It took me twenty years! 

[Grumblebuns]

When you get to bleeding the brake system, bleed using the power bleed method. Attempting to bleed by pumping the brake pedal is a good way to destroy your new seals by pushing the piston/seals into the section of the MC that may still be coated with corrosion. This is assuming that the MC has not been recently re-sleeved. That is what forced me to install a new MC in my S2. 

[3929R]

To give you hope, mine sat for 20 years. The water pump functions and has not leaked in the 5 years it's been back on the road. (knock on wood!)