I replaced my original rear flex hoses without removing the trailing arms. It requires a crowsfoot flare nut wrench and some extensions on the socket. I don't remember it being too much of a pain in the arse but it's been a few years since I did it and I've relatively slim arms.
Before I did it I combed through the Yahoo group archives. Here are the notes/posts I copied. These are all quotes from other owners, some of whom took the arms off, some who didn't-
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-sae-crowfoot-flarenut-wrench-set-93137.html http://ratropa.com/photos.html {scroll down on page} ALSO with some judiciously-applied penetrant to rusty/stubborn fittings, and a crows-foot flare wrench/socket on a long extension, one can finesse the female tubing fittings and the lock nuts loose. Installation of the new parts is a much easier task... ALSO Before you buy new tools, see if you can loosen the connections (without damaging the hard lines) with the tools you already have. If you can't, then you'll know what tools will get the job done. I was able to loosen and tighten the connections from the comfort of the wheel well. And didn't need to dismantle any of the suspension.
After a couple weeks delay, I finally got the rear SS lines on today. Miraculously, I didn't even unbolt the swing arm or shock. I jacked the rear end up so the tires were about 6 inches off the ground and then took them off so I could get access up the swing arm. The upper hose mount was fairly easy to get at from underneath. For the lower mount, I positioned the wrenches on the connections while looking through the fender down the swing arm. I then handed them off to my dad who was laying down underneath (and couldn't see the connections). Getting the SS lines on was actually easier than taking them off (BTDT factor). I was able to get the second side done nearly all by myself. It took about 3 hours from start to finish and that included dinner in the middle. The brakes definitely feel more firm.
Yes you can change them without removing the swing arms. But you need 1/4 inch drive crowsfoot sockets of the right size to get on to the nuts holding the hoses onto the brackets. And extension arms. Aggravating, frustrating, slow, but possible.
You should be able to drop the front of the radius arm down after you pull the long bolt out - you do not have to pull the bolt out of the radius arm, just enough to have the end of the bolt clear the hole in the rubber bushing - the rubber bushing is bolted to the frame.
There are washers between the inside face of the radius arm and the rubber bushing - keep track of how many there are - the thicknes of these washers sets the rear toe-in.
You should be able to access the hydraulic line mounting point when you lower the radius arm.
I replaced both sides with stainless steel and it was a bit of a pain but not too bad on a 72 TC. I had to pound out the roll pins and disconnect the axle shaft from the drive spline. From there I was able to rotate the rear link down and get a wrench on the brake lines. It went relatively fast, maybe two hours. Make sure you use two wrenches, one to hold and one to turn. ALSO Allowing the radius arm and hub assembly to drop down a bit makes all the difference.
On my S2 I have removed the entire rear trailing arm(and parts therein) a couple of times. I jacked the rear up and accessed the trailing arm from below, doing the rear trailing arm mount bolt first, then the brake lines with the trailing arm dangling. With the rear jacked up, the brake line did not leak a whole lot of fluid either.
The car is on jack stands, but I managed to get to the flexible hose with the rear part of the trailing arm unbolted and lowered to the floor. I can see now, that I will probably have to raise the car further up to be able to assemble properly again, but at least that will not be a problem before the next weekend...
To remove existing lines you should use a flare-nut wrench. I think you will need a 3/8 and 7/16.
