How to Tow or Haul the Europa

[katanaman]

  I went home to Ocean Park to regroup.  I finally even tried hiring help to get the supposed car "starts and drives" to do just that, but at least the mobile repair guy was honest enough to warn me that the rewiring part would be best done myself as he would require several hours to go over the wiring chart to be up to speed in working on it.  Even then, he insisted that I get a hold of a new wiring harness -- he would install it for me.  That's what I intended to do, myself once I got it home.  So... I am preparing to get my van outfitted with a trailer hitch and wiring.  My neighbors here feel that they can line up a trailer if I opt not to use a U-Haul dolly.  In case I do, what is the recommended procedure for hauling the Europa?  I remember hearing in the past that it was important to consider lubrication factors for the drivelines during towing procedures.  To me, that sounds like I would put the rear end on the dolly, with the front wheels rolling.  Does anyone have any ideas how I should approach this?  I need to get the Europa out of my sister's garage within the next two weeks...

[EuropaTC]

Hi Dan,
A good move, given what you've found to date I was beginning to think that a 1000mile home trip was a big ask.  If you were to use a dolly then I think I'd roll on the front wheels, maybe with the steering locked in the straight ahead position ? The front bearings should be fine and the last thing you'd need would be damage to the gearbox or rear end.

My take would be to use a trailer though if I'm honest. A few years ago we moved house and had to move my cars. I did think of simply driving them down here but in the end I managed to find a guy who specializes in classic car transportation and to be honest, he was cheaper than me driving there & getting the train back. He took both my Elan & Europa down here on a flatbed truck although he also had a 4 wheel trailer which he could also use. A friendly guy with loads of experience and his view was that the first choice was a flatbed (he could go faster) followed by a trailer. He never used a dolly other than for short trips although he did have one.

It might be worth asking around to see if that sort of service is available on your side of the pond ?  It might cost more than DIY, but a lot less hassle and much quicker.  This was mine going on the flatbed, my missus is supervising and John (the transport guy) is fixing it into place.



 

[EuropaTC]

Wiring - hmm, now that might be more difficult than your repair guy says. What loom do you go for, a sub-loom for the Mazda engine spliced into the old Europa loom or a new standard Europa loom modified for the new electrics ?   There are a few guys on here with engine conversions and no doubt they'd be able to give a few pointers on the best way forward.

I guess you could really do with getting the engine turning to see if it's a practical conversion (and the engine healthy) before taking that decision.

[Bainford]

I've heard others warn in the past that you should never tow a Europa backwards. Doing so causes the engine cover to flex and come unlatched. Once it does, it immediately catchest he wind and wraps itself around the roof, destroying both the engine cover and the windshield. I agree, though, that  towing 1000 miles with the rear wheels on the ground could be risky. Towing (facing forward) on a trailer or flat deck truck would be best. If you find it absolutely necessary to tow your Europa backwards on a dolly, be sure to wrap some type of straps around the back of the car to secure the engine cover. Don't underestimate the flimsyness and flexibility of the engine cover; secure it in a couple of places along its length.

[cal44]

Having a carrier take the car to your place runs about .80 a mile.  It is a little tough on the west coast N/S as there are not that many companies  making the run. 

A dolly is not a good idea...........a trailer is.  What kind van?  What is the spring rate?  Body on frame?  Engine?  Tow package? the list goes on.

Just think how simple your life was before you clicked on that Ebay site..................

[3929R]

I'd want to, and did, use a trailer.  Not knowing any better I towed my car ass first (see picture at left) for 1000 miles... with no problems.  Were I to do it again, I would at least strap the rear deck down. 

These cars are light and don't require a wrecker to tow them.  There are many options for trailers with payloads of at least 1500 lbs.  If your neighbors don't come up with a suitable loaner trailer, I found construction equipment rental places had far better rates than U-Haul, at least around here.  I rented a tandem-axle tilt-deck trailer for about $120+ tax and insurance.  I'm sure the trailer weighed way more than the car.   If your van doesn't have a very high towing capacity, I'd think a single axle trailer would suffice but you'd need to make sure the tongue weight/ load distribution was correct.  That might mean towing the car ass first?

Good luck.  Get ready for people to gawk at your car on the trailer.

[benbeames]

U-haul does rent full car hauler trailers for $49 a day.  I've used them to tow my europa before.  It fits on there well, but if you reserve one online, when they ask you what the car you intend to trailer is, a Europa isn't a choice so you have to pick the nearest sized car.  I think I chose MGB.  But anyway, the Europa does fit. 

[3929R]

The "equipment trailer" I rented was $120 for a week.  (I towed it empty from Salt Lake to pick up my car in Cartego California, then south, then back to Salt Lake.)

[katanaman]

So far, a friend and neighbor has a Dodge Ram Crew-Cab and a huge but light trailer at the ready.  I will be sure to strap the engine lid down as there is no latch there anyway!!!  I've already imagined what damage could occur if the lid pulled up, even facing forward.  The whole idea of the Europa's flow-through ventilation stemmed from what they called a "low pressure" area aft of the rear window!  Us pilots know "low pressure"!  My van is a 1993 Econoline with a 300 cid 6.  Probably not up to towing I-5's Siskiyu Pass or even Grapevine...  We imagine at this point that the 8 will probably exceed the 6 in economy due to hp. required to get the job done.  We will see...   I have a new question:  what is the length of Europa windscreen wiper arms?  Will one from a Triumph do for a replacement?  Ideas?                                                                                     Thanks, Dan
  p.s.  Jeff from JAE suggested that I just repair the wiring and not try a new harness.  I think that next is an investment in bullet connector tools and components, and a return to as equipped, instead of the spade type fittings I put in to patch it up for the trip home.  He told me of British Wiring, a source of those hard to find colored wires, and how I can just order a couple meters of each coloring I need.  As the harness needs that slight mod for the Mazda, this sounds more likely the way I'll go.  I have come across warnings of some systems based on 12.6 volts vs. 14.1, and incompatability.  That might prove to be the biggest obstacle.  Again, I have a strong impression that this conversion hasn't really been run yet...

[EuropaTC]

It's good to hear progress Dan, it sounds like you've got the transport sorted.

Wiring - don't just get a couple of yards of wire, buy lots !   One thing I found last year when I started de-bugging my car was that a lot of wiring in both front or rear compartments had oxidised, blackened and was the most likely cause of poor earthing.   

I tend to use soldered bullet connectors where I can and it's very difficult to make a joint when you get to that stage, so I ended up stripping quite large sections out until I got back to bright copper.  I think you'd have similar problems with crimped connectors. Under those condition they are easier to make a working joint than with solder but more likely to cause problems with building resistance later on.

Wiper arms I can't help with, I have the central single wiper.  I'd guess you're not far out with Triumph Spitfire although no doubt someone will be along in a moment with the measurements !

Brian

[Pete Gossett]

For what it's worth, I had to rewire a '77 Colt rally car I had. In that case, the best decision was to pull out 90% of what was there and start from scratch.

You can probably keep the stock lighting circuits intact(assuming they are), and if the engine has a stock harness with a molex plug I'd keep it too(though you could remove any unnecessary wires). Of course the condition of the existing wire will determine whether that's a good idea - no sense leaving brittle old wiring in place that will just cause grief later.

[benbeames]

Rock Auto sells wiper blades for the Europa on their website www.rockauto.com

Just select your year and sub model europa and they have a ridiculously large selection of wiper blades.