Intro New Member

[ezuskin]

I can get either the Lucas or British ford aftermarket distributor sold by Pertronix dealers for about $200. Either should fit my car. I would spend $50 to replace points, condenser, cap and rotor from my local parts store to fit in a 40 year old distributor which is probably a better made product than the new ones. All maybe a moot point if it is merely the points and I won't find out sitting on the couch with my IPad. Later!

[blasterdad]

Ours sat for 30 years, (Barn find).
No spark... Replaced points, condenser, plugs & coil wire...Result, bright blue spark! 

[ezuskin]

My first drive included a snap spin as I was unaware of result of downshift to second, turn the wheel to left and let off throttle, perfect spin in its own length but I did see a lot of trees during the spin. It  ended in fuel leaking all over driveway. The old plastic fuel lines were quite deteriorated. The irony was the DPO had replaced the plastic Tee with brass but not the lines. Grateful it didn't end up in flames.

[BDA]

That plastic Tee is a killer! As you saw, it's past time to get rid of the rest of the plastic lines. You might want to check the oil pressure capillary tube, too. How are your brake lines? Stainless steel braided Teflon lines are nice.

[EuropaTC]

My first drive included a snap spin as I was unaware of result of downshift to second, turn the wheel to left and let off throttle, perfect spin in its own length but I did see a lot of trees during the spin. It  ended in fuel leaking all over driveway. The old plastic fuel lines were quite deteriorated. The irony was the DPO had replaced the plastic Tee with brass but not the lines. Grateful it didn't end up in flames.

Well, that's one memorable "getting to know you" drive 

I'd have been thanking lucky stars as well with the fuel line episode. I've replaced mine with a combination of aluminium tubing and modern rubber fuel injection tube, much thicker wall and no doubt overkill for the few psi pressure we have, but it feels better.

Brian

[EuropatcSPECIAL]

  Welcome Eddie

[ezuskin]

All solved with new points. Could only get intermittent results from points even after cleaning and re gapping so only challenge was getting fuel pump primed. I'm sure I violated numerous EPA regs by dribbling gas from a plastic water bottle into front carb whilst holding remote starter button til  it ran enough to prime pump. Forgotten how much I like the sounds of that Twincam. Can't wait to leak oil and terrorize the neighborhood

[EuropaTC]

Can't wait to leak oil and terrorize the neighborhood

    love that quote, I've got to find some way of using it !

Glad to hear it was such a simple answer with a new set of points.

Brian

[ezuskin]

Thanks for the support. My distributor was replaced at some point with a British Ford compatible(Capri, Pinto?). I took it with me to assure correct point, rotor and condenser and both my mechanic friend and the NAPA auto parts guys all just wanted to hold the distributor in their hands and spin it and, what seemed to be lovingly, watch the points open and close.

Interestingly the points and condenser matched V8 ford and fit fine. Had a couple friends reminisce about holding slotted screwdriver in the notch and the feeler gauges in the points and adjusting. until it "felt right"

[ezuskin]

BTW, is the oil capillary line the one going  from block to the gauge? Mine is probably original! Yikes!

[jbcollier]

The oil gauge is electrical on a stock Europa.

[3929R]

In regards to fuel lines mentioned above- Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but I believe most of the original fuel lines on my TCS were nylon tubing. The tees and other connecting bits "rotted" and failed but the nylon fuel lines seem to have proven very durable. I think nylon is resistant to ethanol and being used on modern cars. Of course if what ever was used to tie them in place fails and the lines drag on the ground.... well that's a problem.
http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2014/12/05/tech-101-fuel-line-hose-what-you-should-and-should-not-use/
http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/11/14/tech-101-ethanol-in-gasoline-and-its-effects-on-collector-cars/

[BDA]

You may be right about the tubing being nylon and the durability of them. If something should happen to any of them, they will have to be spliced (probably with rubber tubing) and personally, I feel better if they are made of something more flexible. I know they worked but I thought the old nylon fuel line on the DFVs looked fragile. I replaced all the fuel line with stainless steel braided hose. I had a lot of it but I probably would have used that stuff anyway because I like the looks and it's pretty indestructible.

[ezuskin]

Oil gauge on my Twincam is a line full of oil coming to gauge from the starboard side of the block through the tunnel.

[EuropaTC]

Oil gauge on my Twincam is a line full of oil coming to gauge from the starboard side of the block through the tunnel.

As is mine, which I believe is the original.  I don't know but I suspect the S1 & S2 were electrical.

The capillary from the block to the gauge is also the original part and AFAIK they don't suffer the same problems that the fuel system did. And as has been already pointed out, it was the T pieces which caused most grief with cracking. I replaced mine with small brass ones and also sheathed the transfer pipe that goes between the two tanks as it passes through the chassis.

Brian