steering rack

[Gmg31]

I'm well on with removing my body shell from the chassis but I got stuck last night.  I couldn't get the steering rack off and I was wondering if its possible to detach the steering column from the rack without removing the rack first.  And, by the way, how on earth do you get the master cylinder off.  So much stuff in such a small space!!

[BDA]

You need to disconnect the u-joint on the steering column from the rack. It will be inside the 'T' of the frame accessible from a hole in the front of the 'T'. I think you have the M/C with the bell crank arrangement. I can't help you with that.

Good luck!

[Grumblebuns]

I don't see how you can remove the steering rack with out first disconnecting the steering column from the rack. As BDA stated, remove the nut and bolt securing the steering column u-joint from the rack, loosen the intermediate clamp on the column inside the cabin and slide the column off the rack splines. The manual will have more details.

To remove the S2 master cylinder:
- undo the two nuts securing the MC flange to the extension box
- disconnect the clevis securing the push rod to the brake pedal
- pull out the MC as far as it will go
- remove the rubber dust cover
- with angled needle nose pliers, remove the retaining "C" clip locking the push rod cupped washer to the MC bore
- MC should now be loose

[EuropaTC]

I'm well on with removing my body shell from the chassis but I got stuck last night.  I couldn't get the steering rack off and I was wondering if its possible to detach the steering column from the rack without removing the rack first.  And, by the way, how on earth do you get the master cylinder off.  So much stuff in such a small space!!

You can detach the steering column from inside the cabin, but that will still leave the shaft through the footwell and on to the universal joint between the lower shaft & rack. If you have a small spanner you just might get at the lower joint from underneath the car, slacken the pinch bolt and lever it away from the lower steering shaft.  Picture below.....

Whenever I've done the job I've pulled the steering rack off. If you free the upper/lower steering column clamp inside the cabin, undo the rack mounts then  the whole lot moves forward enough to get at the universal joint easily.  I think I also had the master cylinder off though when I did that. 

The master cylinder is just undo the actuating rod at the brake pedal and then it's just two bolts - I'm assuming you've already got the brake pipes off.  Slides forward & out, if it's been there a while you might need persuasion with the Mk2a hammer !

I was once told the basic rule with a Lotus is - don't try and remove anything until you've cleared away the parts and can see at least 3 sides.....   

[EuropaTC]

Cor - while I was writing that couple of paragraphs, two more folks pitched in !  Now that's what I call an active forum   

The only thing I'd add to what's already gone is that I tend to slide out the master cylinder complete with actuating rod. There's enough room on the RHD TC to do that as we don't have the spacer blocks that you guys have over there. 

Also now I think more about it, the pinch bolt might have to come out completely. I think it's in a recess on the splines and just slackening it off won't allow the joint to slide away from the rack.

Brian

[jbcollier]

Yes, it does have to come out completely.

[Grumblebuns]

Bad assumption on my part, thought you had a federal S2. Forget my explanation, you probably have a single circuit MC without the extension box

.

[Gmg31]

Thanks everyone I'm really impressed. I'll have another go on Friday with much more confidence.

Cheers

[Gmg31]

What a frustrating day. Managed to get the nut off the spline end and removed the mid shaft connection but it's seized on the splines.  The nuts on the u bolt connections just turn without loosening. I think I'm going to have to use an angle grinder and I'll have to replace the u bolts.

[jbcollier]

The steering shaft coupler is a tight fit.  Jam a flat screwdriver in the slot in the coupler.  That should spread it enough to allow it to slide off.

To remove the steering rack mounts, you have to have a wrench on the inside of the frame as well.

[Gmg31]

Honestly had they not invented captive nuts in the 70s ? It must have taken them twice as long to build them if they always needed someone underneath with a dozen different spanned.  Grrrr

[4129R]

7/16th spanner into the chassis, and a bit of patience.

If that doesn't work, ask a gynaecologist to help you !!!

[EuropaTC]

Honestly had they not invented captive nuts in the 70s ? It must have taken them twice as long to build them if they always needed someone underneath with a dozen different spanned.  Grrrr

 

Captive nuts ? A Lotus that's easy to work on ? whatever are you thinking about old chap    Good Lord, you'd be expecting the car to start next !

It wouldn't surprise me to hear Colin had child labour working on Saturday morning jobs with thin arms that could easily work inside the chassis holes, mount the distributors on the Twin cams, etc, etc...... 

[4129R]

Getting to the distributor is much easier with the front carburettor removed.

I could not even see the rotor arm or points opening to time the engine with the front carb in place.

As for the long bolts holding the steering rack in place, they are easy to get to if the rack is fitted before the chassis and bodyshell are united.

The hand brake mechanism is easy to get to if assembled and then put in the tunnel (black hole) before the radiator tube etc go through.

A Lotus is not designed to be easy to service after assembly. Where would the fun be in that?

[4129R]

Having now fitted my 4th steering rack, when converting from LHD to RHD, I find that in order to stop the bolt from within the chassis rotating while undoing or doing up the self locking nut, I cut a slot in the bolt end using a hack saw blade only wrapped in cloth to protect my hand, and a lot of patience.

Then stick an electrical screwdriver in from the front (may need to drill a 5mm hole through the fibreglass, and that stops the bolt rotating while undoing or doing up the nut on the bolt from within.

I have bent 2 long 7/16" spanners (wrenches) to stop the 4" x 1/4" UNF bolt rotating from behind, but getting the spanner on to the back of the nut is a very difficult job, but it can be done.

How the hell they did this on a moving production line, I have no idea. Maybe one day I will bump into a production line working in a local pub here in Norfolk, and he can explain.