Recently, there has been a little chatter on the yahoo group about converting to LEDs. So I was intrigued.
My turn signals acted a little strange - blinking at a regular speed than slower eventually to the point I would have to rev the motor get get a decent (but still not as fast as when I first started). Having electronic flashers sounded like a solution and why not reduce the current draw through the wires (I think but am not positive that the relay box under the dash keeps the current draw through the switches down).
Paul Zielinski got me started with a list of LEDs. I got them but later found out that he had an S2 so there were some changes for my TC. I also have the Euro tail lights so I had an extra amber turn signal light for the rear lamps. He suggested lamps sold by Superbrightleds to replace the licence plate lamps but they didn't match those I already had so I didn't use them. I'll include them in the list in case they are a more direct replacement for the S2's license plate lamps. Paul had to use ballast resistors on all four corners because he couldn't get his flashers to work otherwise. I found some flashers that would even blink a single LED light plus they made an audible click for each flash. I wish it were louder and maybe flashers intended for motorcycles would be better but a reviewer of one said he had to put a dab of silicone where the speaker was to quiet it down.
Anyway, as you can imagine, replacing the gauge lights was quite a chore, but not nearly as impossible as I expected. I was really afraid that I'd unplug something in doing it but so far it doesn't seem that I have. The idiot lights (turn signal, ignition, brake, brights) on my TC are different from his S2 so I didn't mess with them. All the rest were pretty straight forward. One thing to note is that you should use red LEDs behind a red filter, amber LEDs behind an amber filter, etc. The light is strong enough to over power the filter so the red brake light looks pink. I took pictures of the rear in the dark with the standard bulbs, but because it was so dark, they didn't come out well - I didn't want to use a flash. I'm sure they are brighter but I've never been that worried about their being bright enough.
After I got all of them changed over, I noticed that the oil pressure gauge light was dimmer than the others so I made sure it was pushed in all the way. The next day when I took the car for a drive, my gauge showed no oil pressure. It turned out that the longer LED was keeping the needle from moving so I had to pull it out a little. I'll probably try another one but it's still brighter than the incandescent bulb and I have to order it from Moss Motors.
I'm really happy with the result - especially the gauge lights. The speedo had its own light and I don't even know how to get to it. It either has an incandescent light that is more effective or a warm LED.
Here is the parts list:
Superbrightleds.com
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Brake light (2): 1157-R24-WV
Rear Turn signal (2): 1156-A24-WV
Front Turn signal (2): 1157-A24-WV
Backup lights (2): 4410-W1-CB
Rear Side markers (2): BA9S-R4-90-12VAC
Front Side markers (2): BA9S-A4-90-12VAC
License plate lamps (2): LPC-C-NW2
High beam indicator (1): BA7S-B (for S2)
Turn indicators (2): BA7S-G (for S2)
Oil/ignition indicators (2): BA7S-R (for S2)
Festoon (3): 3610-NW4 (for interior light and two license plate lights)
Moss Motors
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Instruments (6): 170-972
Summit Racing
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Flashers (2): UPD-90652
Here are before and after pictures of the interior (ignore the date stamp on the pictures and the before could be at a better angle but you get the idea).
