Brakes short story

[cal44]

Thought I would check the brakes as the car has not been in my garage long.  Got the off drums without incident.  The shoes....aaaa.....worn down to a 1/16", but only at the one end of each.  The rest of the shoe was barely worn with a slight taper.

What the  %@*&?  So I ordered parts from RD and went through my limited thought process of why only part of the shoes were used.  Did some homework by viewing old posts via Jerry's Europa website (not sure how I did it).

Turns out the brake wheel cylinder is supposed to move one way or another as the brakes are applied so it centers in the drum.  Like a floating  adjustment.  Mine were locked solid, hence no movement/or centering ability.  Over the years the prior owners had painted several coats over dirt and flash rust on the backing plate making it impossible for the brakes to work correctly. 

Do not! get me started.

Reminds me of people complaining how Porsche 356 drum brakes aren't that good............not so.  If they are working on a clean surface with all parts properly lubricated with drums within tolerance those cars will stop on dime.  People just don't want to take the time to do the right work.  See where this is going?

The last owner was using twenty percent of his rear brakes..........my plan is to use 100% and to make the emergency brake work as designed..........which I understand will work wonderfully on a flat surface......doh.....

Mike

[EuropaTC]

Ahhh, the DPO....... 

Your theory sounds right, the wheel cylinder is supposed to move freely although with new shoes tightly adjusted it doesn't seem to move that much. But a seized one isn't right as you say and I could see how it reduces the braking area.

Best of luck with the handbrake (emergency brake) though. Last year I replaced all the bits on mine, including new actuator arms, and it was still poor compared with a modern car. In fact your thread came along just as I've started to check over the brakes again yesterday in preparation for the annual UK MoT (Ministry of Transport) test to make sure the car is roadworthy. According to the rules the handbrake must be 25% efficient and in most garages it's checked on a rolling road which measures the individual wheel forces. I always get good results for the footbrake but the handbrake needs an enthusiast to read the result 

[BDA]

It sounds like you're on your way to fixing your braking issue. The rear drums are adequate if properly assembled. Good luck!

[cal44]

A little update.  I bought new brake cylinders (AP).    They seem too be different than the original Girlings.  Where the emergency brake elbow rotates on the cylinder the two nipples will not slide in as the casting is made  the same height as the extension from the body of the casting.  Gosh I hope that made sense.

 
The ends must be ground down in order for the nipples to be inserted.  I tried mini files but got no where fast so it was on too the Dremel......geeeez I love that tool.

Or...........the quality is not as good in the castings.  Also the side of the cylinder needs to be flat filed  (fine bastard) in order to have the adjusting wheel rotate smoothly.

My old Girlings didn't leak but since all needed to be removed I thought what the heck............I will keep the originals for a proper backup part/s.

Mike

[3929R]

Good luck Mike.

For the record, my handbrake works fine for holding my car in place when parked on the hill on which I live.  Of course I also use the transmission to make sure 3929R doesn't decide to take itself for a drive.