Restoration of 460489

[Hachille]

Cheer. Very clever cutting tools.
There is a very interesting camshaft with these pistons
SAVOYE S11.
It can be cut on an R16TX camshaft.

http://a110a.free.fr/SPIP172/article.php3?id_article=143

[Rainer]

Looks interesting , with pretty much lift.
I had my cam send to Salv Sacco for a regrind, of i remember correct the specs are 296 degrees but 9.8 mm lift.
My goal was not maximum power but more drivability and keep the valvetrain alive.
Sorry I was to lazy to do a cam diagram, when installing it.
I have an adjustable cam gear from CatCams, which i can only recommend. Probably would gone mad if i had to do this with offset dowels.

[Rainer]

I should have updated this thread a long time ago.
But now as i am on my first big vacation since two years i finally have some time.
I checked all oil galleries on the engine using a broken distributor gear and a cut down oil shaft, this way all bearings will have already some oil, and the galleries and filter are at least not completely dry.
So the old engine block got out of the car and the new engine went in.
The 395 gearbox needed the clutch lever reversed, after a lot of problems getting the pins out of the shift fork, i ended up with a new stainless shaft and the fork welded to a new tube.
At least i used rollpins, in case i need to disassemble these parts sometime in the future.
I got the last missing parts, an original swirlpot and a set of gearbox spacers, with help from fellow members ultimaguy476 and 4129r thanks Nick and Alex.
So the first start was planned for the last week of 2022, which did not end well.
Long story short i inserted the new 123ignition distributor the wrong way, which i thought should not even be possible and it broke my distributor drive gear.
First suspicion was a missaligned head, because i did not use the special tool.
So the head came of again.
Luckily Mecky helped me out with a drivegear, and as soon as the part shop were oped after the Christmas days the head was back on the block, with a new gasket. This time perfectly aligned, thanks to jbcollier who posted the dimensions of the tool, so i could reproduce it on my lathe.
This time the first start went well, and i did the cam break in successfully.

For curiosity i checked if the distributor was still able to slide in the wrong way around and yes it is possible even with an aligned head, the original one does not btw.
And i experienced the same thing on a 60s ponton Mercedes, a few month ago, the piece on the end of the distributor is just a bit too sloppy.
Besides this flaw i think it is a great product especially with the possibility to program the distributor with your phone.

[BDA]

Looking good Rainer! 

[Rainer]

Carburetor problems.
After the break in i had some serious troubles with the 40 Dhla carbs.
I had already rebuild them with new gaskets and parts according to specs i got from Salv Sacco.
For reference i used the Des Hammill book, which i really recommend.
A good idle was impossible and the carbs leaked fuel from the throats.
I checked the usual things several times, float height, various heights an methods to measure, maybe bad floats, fuel pressure to high, the float valves. The carbs still leaked fuel.
Then i found wrong steel balls on the accelerator pump weights. New steel balls in, still the same problem.
The only part the Des Hammill book does not cover is setting up the pump rods, it just states do not touch them.
I found an old alfa manual explaining the setup.
The accelerator pumps have to pump an amount of fuel when you operate them 10 or 20 times.
I checked my carbs and found they only putting out a third of the required amount.
The carbs were set so loose the rods started to vibrate and pumping a constant amount of fuel as soon as the engine was running.
After setting up the accelerator pumps to the  correct amount, the fuel dropping from the throats was gone.
Just needed a slightly bigger idle jet, and had to fix a small air leak on one of the carb flanges.
Now i could set the a smooth idle around 900 rpm. Took me about three weekend to figure this out, but such a good feeling when the engine finally runs so well.

[Kendo]

Well done. That's some serious troubleshooting, and out of the box thinking.

[BDA]

Not being a carb tuner, after many times of fiddling with this and that for longer than I'm willing to admit, I finally have them behaving themselves pretty well. I know how you feel and it feels great, doesn't it!!!

Congratulations!!   

[Rainer]

Window channels.

The window channel material for the S1 cars is unobtanium.
After different experiments which didn't work, welding aluminum u-profiles together, bending thin stainless to the correct profile, it was 3D printing.
I made prototypes with my FDM printer and after finding the correct shape i used resin printing for the first time, steep learning curve but the results are so much better in the end.
The parts were trimmed at the ends and then covered with chrome foil.
The window rubber for the dropout windows seems unobtainable as well.
I ended up using a H-profile made a jig and cut the inner lip down to roughly 1 mm, this works surprisingly good, the windows stay in place without problems and mounting them is not too complicated.

[BDA]

Very clever! 

I'm surprised the window seals for all the Europa quarter windows aren't the same!

[dakazman]

  Rainer,
  Going through your pics I see your running a front pulley, What are you going to use it for? What pulley will you be using?


 Dakazman

[Rainer]

My engine is based on a 843-13 these had a front pulley, i would have probably omitted the pulley but i had no closed cover.
Now its a nice feature as you can turn the engine over by hand, you can reach the hexhead witch a spanner from above.
But i had to turn the pulley down as far as possible to make room for the shift rods. I don't think there is enough room to use any kind of pulley at least not when using the S1 type gear selector mechanism.

[dakazman]

  Yes, I had to cut down pulley and head of retaining bolt after countersinking the center hole.
It was a source of grinding on the rod end.
 Dakazman