Still have gearchange problems

[BDA]

Sparkrite, choosing between my advice and JB's, I would advise you to choose JB's advice (especially since addressing his doesn't require taking the tranny apart!). However, you said,

- with engine running and clutch pedal pressed I can select gears,so unlikely to be clutch or clutch drag

and given that, I'm wondering if that was something that got by JB.

JB, if you didn't miss that, could you explain why Sparkrite's test isn't sufficient or rule out the clutch.

I would add that if the synchros are the issue that the clutch disc and TO bearing should be changed before reinstalling the tranny so I guess in some senses our advice overlaps.

[Sparkrite]

In my number 4 reply, would my crude test not have shown up a possible clutch drag issue. This is the relined disc which worked perfectly on the 600 mile trip to France.

[dakazman]

I took the slack out of the linkage. The bottom of the gear lever(bushes),the slack in the threaded rods as they enter the linkage tubes,the two universal joints and the slack in the pivot for the central helm joint.
I can select all the gears when stationery with engine on and also off.

   did you take some slack out of the clutch cable to the release bearing arm?
   How far do you push the pedal down does it make contact with pressure plate fingers? near floor?
 Dakazman

[GavinT]

It is also initially very difficult to get out of first.

And...

The strangest one for me is 1st to neutral being difficult...

That, to me, suggests a dragging disc as the culprit and I can't think of any other explanation (though happy to be educated).
Thereafter, synchro baulking is a symptom and not a cause.

[jbcollier]

Back in the day, we had LOTS of trouble with rebuilt clutch pressure and friction plates.  We stopped using them and only used new, brand-name parts.  No more problems.  When I do a clutch job -- actually in the middle of one right now on my 2009 Defender -- I do EVERYTHING inside the bell housing as I do not want to have to open it again for a long, long time:

- NEW, brand-name, clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, and release bearing)

- flywheel ground as required

- new pilot bearing

- new rear engine seal

- new tranny front seal (if accessible)


I have never had any issues afterwards.  That's 100+ clutches, easily.

[EuropaTC]

Following the posts on this thread and what you're experiencing, it sounds very much like the problems I had a few years ago when I had gearchange problems and ended up changing the clutch plate/housing & bearing although I think it was only the housing which was at fault. But as JB says, once you've got in there you might as well do the lot and pack it away for a few more years. (actually I looked it up and it was 2014, how time flies when you've got a Lotus      )

I re-read the posts and noted your comment on oils...

So I am assuming my clutch and gear linkage is fine,but the problem is likely in the gearbox or oil choice. The oil I put in was Castrol Transmax manual EP 80w 90

I wouldn't totally discard that one although I don't know how much difference the 90W (hot) grade would make when my manual says 80W. Maybe the higher ciscosity at temperature will make the changes a bit harder, I just don't know.

I do remember way back in the 80s we had a TR7 which I changed the gearbox oil. Of course I didn't read the manual or handbook at the time (how hard can it be ?) so when I came to re-fill it and looked how much I needed I found I didn't have the correct viscosity oil.  So I simply put in the same stuff I used on the Elan at the time - it's a gearbox, they're all the same aren't they ?

The first run out the change was horrendous and when I bought the correct oil and saw the difference I could see why. So if the oil change was coincidental with these gearchange problems then maybe that's your only problem, but if you've run successfully with the 80/90 oil in the box then probably not, and it's spanners time again ?

Brian