Author Topic: 807 needs the Flywheel attached  (Read 296 times)

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Offline BERNIEHUMBER

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807 needs the Flywheel attached
« on: Friday,September 08, 2023, 06:20:16 AM »
HI:
The 807 is down to getting dressed in a freshly reground wheel.
Problem:The Flywheel lock plate.
I have one but its in rough shape and I am afraid by putting it on pieces can metal fatigue(re-bending metal flaps) and fly off.
I have looked up some of the more typical locations for it and the part is reasonable but shipping from France/handling makes it a 80 dollar experience.
My last rebuild was on a Ford 260 in my Tiger and I used star washers that came with the new flywheel bolts.
I am going to use Red or Blue Loctite(?)in the reassembly and some of the folks I have talked to said the lock plates were used in the 60/70's but not as much today. Others have gone as far as saying they have done rebuilds on engines were the soft metal plates cased problems by pieces breaking off.
I have included a pic to remind folks of what I am talking about.
If I needed more Renault engine parts I wouldn't mind the S/H but for a part of dubious need?
Any thoughts? 
Thanks
Bernie

Offline kram350kram

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Re: 807 needs the Flywheel attached
« Reply #1 on: Friday,September 08, 2023, 07:10:05 AM »
Have built many very radical 289 Ford race engines . I use hardened parallel ground steel washers with loctite, with either aluminum or steel wheels. Never had a flywheel come loose. I believe in torque and bolt stretch, but I use the loctite  mainly for the bolt sealer as the crank bolts are open to the crankcase, but also nice to have some extra insurance.

Offline jbcollier

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Re: 807 needs the Flywheel attached
« Reply #2 on: Friday,September 08, 2023, 07:37:19 AM »
Lock plates can be an issue, especially in high torque applications (like the dreaded rear axle nut).  However, the flywheel bolt torque is only 40 ft/lbs.  I think you would be fine with keeping the lock plate.  Rather than ordering one in, you could just cut one out from metal sheet.  K350K’s suggestions are on the money as well.  Lastly you can drill the bolts for lock wire, use hardened washers and loctite.  It’s what I would do if I was racing.

What did I do?  Can’t really remember.  I would guess a new lock plate and loctite as well.

Offline SwiftDB4

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Re: 807 needs the Flywheel attached
« Reply #3 on: Friday,September 08, 2023, 08:22:39 AM »
As Kram said just use good hardened washers and red loctite, not blue. I've done maybe 50 engine builds from 807 up to Roush Ford 427 strokers. Never used a lock plate. Never had any flywheels come loose.

Offline BERNIEHUMBER

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Re: 807 needs the Flywheel attached
« Reply #4 on: Friday,September 08, 2023, 11:46:41 AM »
HI:
Thanks for all the input!
I will be using Red Loctite and Nord-Loc ss washers.
A while ago I was involved with some Hydro generation equipment.
All critical nut/bolt etc used these loc washers.
I figure if they are good enough for that app an 807 should live through it.
Bernie

Offline jbcollier

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Re: 807 needs the Flywheel attached
« Reply #5 on: Friday,September 08, 2023, 12:27:22 PM »
Check carefully that the nord-loc washers are not too thick and cause the bolts to interfere with proper clutch operation.  Probably ok but worth double checking.

Offline BERNIEHUMBER

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Re: 807 needs the Flywheel attached
« Reply #6 on: Friday,September 08, 2023, 12:49:59 PM »
HI John:
I thought of that.
I am going to have the flywheel out(laying flat) put the bolts through the washers then into the flywheel so they are laying flush.
I'm then going to take the clutch disc and with Plasticine on each bolt head put the disc onto the flywheel mating surface.
This will give me an idea of how much clearance(approx) I have (show slightly less clearance than reality as the bolts will not be compressing the washers).
I used to do this Plasticine check when doing engines to confirm clearances pistons to head to valves.
Bernie