Plumbing brake lines

[califkid_66]

I’m trying to figure out how to plumb my brake line from the master to the junction block
First idea was to get an adapter m10 bubble male to 3/8 female inverted so I received the adapters but to my surprise when I removed the old brake line from the junction block it was 3/8 bubble
The plan was to put a already made 3/8 inverted flare brake line but that won’t work because the junction block is bubble and can’t put metric bubble cause the threads are 3/8
I can only get metric bubble or imperial double flare

And to complicate things my s2 is left hand drive so there’s no space between the master and the fibreglass fender well only 1.5 inch so I have to make a very tight radius in the brake line no place for adators

So the only solution I found was to get a m10 metric bubble line connect it to the master cut it in half remove the other m10 fitting replace it with the3/8 bubble fitting I had on the junction block then make a joint to connect the two sides I got a double flare joint

The parts store told me they have steel compression joints that are street legal but everywhere I read
It says it’s not legal so I’m going with double flare joint

If someone has a better idea how to I am open to suggestions
Thanks

[RoddyMac]

If it were me, I'd look at using metric banjo bolts and banjos to accept the 3/8" thread (7H7851 BMC/BL/Moss Europe).  Then make up new lines to run to the junction block.  The only downside is more places for leaks if the copper washers on the banjos fail (very very rarely).

It's a shame you're on the opposite side of the country from me, I have a flaring tool and I might even have some fittings somewhere in my pile of parts. 

[califkid_66]

I was thinking of using the original banjo and just put a metric bolt instead of the 3/8 and 7/16
I started making my own lines with the inverted joints I have a inverted flaring tool so I’ll see how it goes

[jbcollier]

You can buy inexpensive flare tool off amazon.  Then get some copper-alloy line, 3/8 and M10 flare nuts and make up your own line.

https://www.amazon.ca/Capri-Tools-Double-Flaring-CP21110-316/dp/B0859QMSNX/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?crid=2HC6HY56P8QWX&keywords=brake+line+flare+tool&qid=1683845351&sprefix=brake+line+flate+%2Caps%2C238&sr=8-10&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.b06bdbbe-20fd-4ebc-88cf-fa04f1ca0da8


They have copper-nickel brake line as well.

[califkid_66]

I have a flaring tool but not for bubble I think the way I did it should be ok
The only part I had to flare was the joints I’ll see right away if I did them correctly
Now I have to find someone to pump the brake pedal !!
Picture of finished installation

[Grumblebuns]

If you are going to use the original Girling banjos, be aware that the banjos will be a loose fit with the 10 mm bolts, a bit scary. If you go with metric banjos, I believe you will need to use AN flares and fitting.

Also if your flaring tool can make inverted flares, it can also make bubble flares. The first step in making inverted flares is to make a bubble flare. From your second photo, why did you make a junction instead of a single line from the MC to the three way Tee?   

[califkid_66]

I’m done I didn’t use the banjo I used a metric line that had m10 fittings for the master
and reused the fittings from the junction blocks

[jbcollier]

Looks good to me.

[califkid_66]

To answer your question why did I make a joint instead of one line is because I didn’t know I could do a bubble flare with my double inverted flaring tool or else I would not have made the joint
If I would have to redo I would buy a metric bubble line cut one end of stick in the fitting from the junction block do a bubble flare then I would have a brake line starting at mc with m10 bubble and finishing at junction block with 3/8 bubble

[Bryan Boyle]

I have a flaring tool but not for bubble I think the way I did it should be ok
The only part I had to flare was the joints I’ll see right away if I did them correctly
Now I have to find someone to pump the brake pedal !!
Picture of finished installation

You don't need someone to pump the pedal.  Invest in the Gunson EZBleed kit.  Hooks up to a tire, has a 1 qt reservoir to hold the fluid, and a sealed cap to put on the master.  Fill the master with fluid, attach the kit, hook up to a tire...and it will pressurize the entire system so you can bleed it with one person.  Start at the furthest brake and work your way closest.

Best investment you can make to maintain brakes (besides flare wrenches so you don't booger the fitttings) and the spring tool for the rears.  Seriously.  Right tool for the job.

[Kendo]

I second the Gunson, though in the early 1990’s, it didn’t come with that reservoir. Sounds quite useful. I just keep an eye on the level in the MC.

[Bryan Boyle]

I second the Gunson, though in the early 1990’s, it didn’t come with that reservoir. Sounds quite useful. I just keep an eye on the level in the MC.

It is...one person bleeding without having a 'helper' to pump the pedal.  Pressurize the master (which also lets you wander around quickly to see if there are any leaks)...circle the car from the furthest nipple, and have at it.  Last time I used it...had whole car bled in less than 20 minutes.